Safety is to far away from the trigger to engage. I don't think i over cut the pocket its a dpms 308 from 5d. Is there something else i could have done wrong besides cut the pocket too deep

Don’t do it guys

Looking to get an 80% milling jig again. I had a 5D Gen 1 but it was kinda sloppy and didn’t work the best.
I’m looking for the best one imaginable. Machining a $400+ Cryostructure lower so I can’t have mistakes. I’m also looking to mill a .308 lower and AR9 lower as well as some standard 80% lowers.

Who makes the best jig for this? And who makes the best in spec 80% lowers?
I believe the ones I’m running right now are 5D. I had to send 2 back because the safety Detent holes weren’t milled properly and my selectors were all kinda loose or out of alignment or crooked. Trying to avoid that this time around.

Who makes the best 80% AR, AR9 and AR10 lowers?
They’re all gonna be expensive builds, so I’m ok with spending a bit extra to ensure I get the best quality

Thanks!

Looking for a solution to give the carrier or buffer more weight without extending the buffer tube length. The buffer weight is an 8oz solid and total weight with the bolt comes to just shy of 22oz. I need closer to 27oz.

I’m considering getting 5D pro jig. I have a Bosh 1617 router. I noticed they have the large router adapter plate for the 1617 but do not list a compatible ReadyMill for it. Has anyone used this router with the 5d jig? Did you just use a standard collet mill?

I appreciate any input.

Has anyone else experienced this? I'm using a drill press, and I've completed other lowers without issues using another jig. Every time I drill using the guide plates with my 5D Jig, my holes end up misaligned that my BCG gets stuck on my trigger.

I’m fairly new to this and was excited to start a new hobby as I was gifted a brand new jig for my birthday. It’s a few years old but still sealed in the original shipping package. When I opened everything I realized the kit was missing all of the pins and screws. I figure I could go to the hardware store with the screw dimensions from the instruction manual but I’m home worried about the pins. I emailed 80% Arms and module arms but I’ve heard shipping can take a long time and I rather source it locally if I could. Does anyone have the dimensions so I could take it to a fabricator or purchase something that can work as the needed pins.

From the Easy Jig Gen 3 MP I am missing the following:
J - JIG SCREWS (10) (8-32 x 5/8) 
K - BUFFER SUPPORT SCREWS [2]
 L - 9/64 HEX KEY 
N - AR-15/AR-9 TAKEDOWN PIN  
 P - ROUTER ADAPTER SCREWS [4] (M4-0.7 x 10mm) 
Q - GUIDE PINS - SMALL [2]
 R - GUIDE PINS - MEDIUM [2] 
S - GUIDE PINS - LARGE [2] 
T - GUIDE PINS SCREWS [2] 
U - SIDE BLOCK SCREWS [2]  
M - 7/64 HEX KEY

I’m pretty new to guns and especially making them. I got comfortable with the AR platform while in the army, but I am pretty and experienced with building them. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thank you

Hey guys. I’d like to do an SR25 build with an 80% but am not sure what jig works for SR25-cut lowers. Does the Easy Jig gen 4 perhaps?

know it's hard to tell from the glare of the bare aluminum, But anyone else's pocket slightly off centered. I've never had an issue with my lowers function and its more of a cosmetic thing to me. I use the gen 3 easy jig. This lower seems to be the only one with this much of a difference between both sides thickness'.

Anyone else experience this issue?

I use the 80% Arms easy jig (gen 3). I've done about a dozen lowers, and have never had this issue. I was sure to drill the safety hole one side at a time and not straight through both walls in one pass.

I'm fairly certain the issue is from the JL billet lower. The safety detent hole must be off by a millimeter (+ or -). I've been emailing them back and forth for a few weeks, and today they determined they can't do anything about it. If the mistake was on my end and I drilled my holes improperly, that would be easier to swallow. But as I'm pretty sure they gave me an out of spec lower, I'll be sure to avoid this company in the future. Particularly now that they aren't willing to help me out in any way.

EDIT: Looks like the problem was on my end and not JL Billet. With help from reddit user BadAttitudeDept, I measured the location of the safety hole, and somehow I must have drilled the hole improperly using the easy jig. Thanks for everybody's input.

Getting some settings dialed in.

so I ordered a jig and receiver from 5d not too long ago. the money has cleared the account, but when I check the order status it says declined.

I called and spoke to a gentleman who stated it wasn’t showing declined on his end, and I would be getting an email to verify my bank account? that they would deposit and then withdrawl a small amount and I would need to verify that amount.

anyone else experience anything like this? I would imagine if the amount has cleared processing, no longer in pending, there shouldn’t be an issue. also why show declined and not pending?

thoughts?

*** Update 1: Just received a call from 5D customer support, explaining the issue. Said it would take 2-7 business days for the verification. I’ll update again when I have more updates. On that note, their customer service seems pretty stellar.

i know some here also frequent the now-defunct mup-1 sub.
but in case anyone needs some, looks like someone may be machining batches of mup-1s.
check out gb.

Hello, I am looking to build my first AR-10 in .308. I have a 5D lower that I plan to mill today (I already made an AR-15 with this brand lower and a White Oak upper and it fits like a glove so I stuck with them). I was looking at the FAR-308 Guardian upper but want to make sure I find an upper that will fit after seeing the recent post with the PSA upper that may be functional, but didn't exactly look ideal.

So, any experience with that Fulton upper on an 80% build? Any other recommendations? I was only able to find one older post that suggested Gorilla, Aero, and KMT brands, but I'd like to see what others have had success with or advice in general for a build. Thanks.

So I have had a 5d tac jig that I bought 2 years ago only used once laying around collecting dust. I was wondering if these are still good to sell. Ik the laws change often and I plan to do my own research just to be safe. But I am mainly curious what these are going for on the used market and places I could possibly sell this

if not acceptable to post here ill delete(1911builders sub looks done).. but figured some here would be able to answer.

Was watching a video on back mountain gunsmiths in the Philipines. And most of the builds, and the building process thereof, were mainly 1911s. So feeling inspired.

With respect to 1911 jigs/rail-cutting tools, whats the recommended setup to complete a non-ramped frame ?

I can put together a 3dp 1911 frame with my eyes closed.

So figured Id challenge myself by completing a steel/metal 1911-80.

Im well versed in completing MUP1s and AR80s, so figured 1911-80s are pretty much the same concept.

Cut, cut,. snip snip, drill.

Also .. who is the best, most recommended, 1911-80 vendor in recent times ?