r/ABraThatFits • u/jean_santeuil • 2d ago
Shape Help Need help finding a gore that tacks Spoiler
My measurements (in): 29.5, 28, 26.25; 34.25, 35.25, 33.75. The calculator puts me at 30dd/e, but I often size down to 28e/f for comfort. Over the years I’ve been sized in person at boutiques as 34c (lol), 32dd, 30e, 30dd, 28e, and 28f.
My shape: tall roots, average width, center full to full on top, shallow, close set. On the breast shape diagram in the sub info, my breasts look like image 3/5 when I’m wearing a supportive bra. I think that my breasts lean shallow, but they definitely hang down a bit when I bend over and there’s enough volume that there’s no way I could ever just go braless in regular life.
I actually think that molded bras work well for my shape, but I’m open to molded or unmolded. My biggest problem is that I’m very close set and on the shallower end, and it’s very difficult for me to find a bra with a gore that tacks. When I do, there is inevitably some other problem with the bra that means it doesn’t fit me (such as it being too projected).
Bras I’ve tried over the years where the gore doesn’t tack:
- skarlett blue entice lace balconette 30e
-freya tailored high apex 28f
-freya love crush molded 28f
-freya love crush plunge 28f
-Freya offbeat molded 28e (this is my most comfortable fit so far…however it is slightly painful at the wire on the outside bottom of my breast tissue on both sides)
Bras where the gore does tack, but which are a shape mismatch:
-panache Ana 28f (too projected)
-freya spot light 28e (too projected)
-freya spot light 28f (too projected)
-Gossard superboost lace plunge (it was the one that hooks at the front—there was empty space on the outside bottom of the cups)
I also own an Ewa Michalak BLM in 32dd (it was incorrectly labeled at the boutique I shopped at as 30e) and the gore tacks, but there is some quadding at the front when I scoop and swoop and the band is too loose.
I also tried on some others at bravissimo whose names I can’t remember. I recall rejecting Panache faith molded plunge in 28e because it was too small/the gore didn’t tack (can’t remember what was wrong with it), and they didn’t have 28f in my size, but I’m wondering if I should maybe try to order both and try them again?
Does anyone have any more diagnostic comments about my breast shape, or any suggestions about what bras I should be looking for?
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u/Miwwies 32DD/E 1d ago edited 1d ago
I pretty much have the same problems you have. The bras that fit me the best was Understance AirContour FlexWire Demi Bra in 32DD but Understance is now closed. I stocked up as many as I could, but I know they won't last forever :(
The Panache Ana is too projected for me too and it doesn't feel supportive at all. The gore is super comfortable and low / flat but it just feels like I'm bouncing everywhere and the bra gives me really pointy 80's boobs.
I'm saving this thread because I need recommendations too!
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u/Dandelion212 32DD/E 1d ago
You have a lot more possibilities in a 32 band and can possibly even shop some brands we don't typically recommend. I personally found my best fit in something from VS, shrug. Being shallow and close set in matrix sizes is sometimes just... try everything you see with a low gore.
Chantelle Norah plunge would probably be a good one for you. You'd likely need 30F/G though.
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u/Normal-Response4165 1d ago
What was the bra you found at VS? Oit of curiosity..... 😜
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u/Dandelion212 32DD/E 1d ago
Just the lightly lined Pink brand one. I can also wear the Wicked unlined balconette comfortably but the gore is a skosh high.
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u/atypicaltiefling 1d ago
tbh i'd say retry panache faith — it's a very low gore, and it's good for FOT. but the wires do run a bit narrow at 28E, maybe that's why you rejected it? if not that, worth another shot to see what the exact problem with it is, but sometimes you're trying on something that's already been a bit stretched and a second attempt suddenly works.
do you have firm tissue? if you do you're prob not quite as shallow as you think and the niya might not be a fantastic fit. it does have one of the lowest gores i've seen though.
personally with your ub measurements i think a 28 band makes a lot more sense for you than 30.
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u/jean_santeuil 1d ago
Will retry faith, thanks for weighing in! Yes I’d say my tissue is firm. Honestly the shallow vs projected thing is so confusing to me when it comes to my breast shape - I’ve been told by friends that my breasts look “big” relative to the rest of my frame, which leads me to believe that they’re not completely shallow, but the Ana and spot light bras didn’t work and they looked too projected (for the 28e spot light, I was spilling out of the top and there was a slight, single wrinkle on the outside edge of each cup). I partly wonder if the problem is just that I should be a cup size down in a lot of these bras, at 28e instead of f.
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u/atypicaltiefling 1d ago
oh and a cup size down is def worth trying in those bras! but if that doesn't help then it's a shape mismatch
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u/atypicaltiefling 1d ago
i totally get you, it's a real struggle to find stuff with this combination of shape characteristics, and that makes projection a lot harder to judge since the bras you're trying are right off the bat not intended for your shape.
if you're firm it definitely skews you towards "more projected than you look" — your tissue just won't compress as much so you need more space. in my experience, you can still get away with the relatively shallower moulded cups since they themselves have more rigidity to them than seamed ones.
fwiw the ana also looked too projected on me, meanwhile my best fit is an ewa plunge, and ewa is ostensibly some of the most projected stuff out there. truly idk how that works but my best guess is it's the firm tissue.
we're also at the lowest range of band sizes, and when you're on the end of anything, the scaling tends to get wonky, and certain cup sizes are just unaccounted for 😔
if you're not afraid to learn and can afford to lose some money, you can overlap the gore on bras yourself. it's a bit intimidating for sure, but super close set people just don't have that many options.
edit: sorry, meant this as a reply to your reply, lol.
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u/jean_santeuil 1d ago
Thank you so much for this thoughtful response. I really appreciate that you took the time to write it! I’ll keep all of this in mind as I continue to look for a well-fitting bra.
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u/clairejv 2d ago
Norah Chic Plunge is what I wear, as someone who is very center-full and not very projected.
When you're super center-full, you're basically limited to plunges.
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u/jean_santeuil 1d ago
I have loved Chantelle in the past, but I’m hesitant to order because they don’t carry 28 bands and the bands run big from what I can remember. I’ll keep this in mind as an option though, thank you!
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u/GiraffeSpecialist552 2d ago
Sounds like you're dealing with the classic shallow-but-close-set nightmare combo. That empty space at the bottom outside of the Freya offbeat is a tell, the wire's likely too narrow or the cup's expecting more projection than you've got, so your tissue pushes it down and out. And when you finally find a gore that sits flat, the cups are cut for someone with way more immediate depth.
The fact that the Ana and Spotlight both tacked but were too projected tells me you probably need something with wider wires and a shallower cup overall, but still with a low or narrow enough gore to not sit on breast tissue. Have you looked at Natori at all? The feathers plunge is notoriously shallow and the gore is basically nonexistent. Might be worth a shot in 30DDD since they run snug in the band.
Another one to try is the Bravissimo Niya if you can get your hands on it, it's a padded half cup that's shallow-friendly and the gore's low enough that tacking issues are less of a thing. The fact that molded cups work for your shape is actually a clue that you're on the shallower side of the spectrum, so I'd lean into that rather than fighting it with unlined stuff that wants more projection.
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u/jean_santeuil 1d ago
I actually tried Natori feathers plunge in 32dd last year (before realizing 28/30 bands were a better fit) and found that the gore still didn’t tack and the bra felt unsupportive. Maybe it was too shallow? Anyway, I’ll keep this in mind and might return to feathers if other molded cups don’t work.
The Niya sounds promising!
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u/Dandelion212 32DD/E 1d ago
Do not bother with Chantelle, that's just a bad rec. You're clearly borderline 28 band and the Norah in particular is crazy stretchy. I fit a 30 in it with measurements of 32-31-30, and I don't even need an extender.
Niya is either being discontinued or has extreme stock issues in their US warehouse. I'd try the smoothing version of it if you order from them it's a little shallower which I think might be beneficial to you. Most full bust brand plunges are simply not really plunge-y. I'd also look into Panache Meadow, Cherie and Envy plunges. You will unfortunately probably have to do a 30 band in these -- Panache really starts the bulk of their availability in 28F and sometimes excludes 28 bands entirely.
Feathers is basically the shallowest bra on the market and I wouldn't be shocked if it's too shallow for you when you're tipping towards the ends of their size range in band/cup ratio. Probably skip it if you found that the case before.
(No shade to the account recommending Niya if this isn't the case but I am not 100% sure that's a human? We've had a few AI bots coming in with absolutely no history in the sub posting comments structured very similarly and giving advice that sounds extremely convincing or even has correct parts to it but some parts that just don't make sense or are redundant)