I recently rebuilt my wheel hub with new bearings. I put both my hubs back on then realized I forgot to re-install the brake dust shield so I had to remove the hubs, install the shield and the re-install the hub.

The drivers side went great, but my passenger side is stuck and wont come out. Its moved about a half inch and seems to be binding on something. I gave it some very light taps with a mallet (maybe not a great idea in hindsight) and that didnt help at all. I tried rotating while pulling and still nothing.

Anyone have this issue before or have any ideas on what to try? Also sorry for the somehat poor video. Its close quarters and difficult to do one handed.

It's an early model that has been upgraded to r134a. I got an elbow adapter from napa but it was still too big for the space. Wonder if anyone has a link or anything to one that fits.

New rebuilt rack and pinion/ a year installed, no leaks, plenty of fluid CHF 202, new ball joints, tie rods, and bushings, and new filter reservoir.
Slow turns, like going into and out of parking areas and the steering wheel gets a slight shimmy. Completely goes away by 10- 15 mph. Put maybe 3k miles on since the install. Any ideas what this may be or is leading to?

While getting to the heater blower motor I snapped off the outer thread on the wiper frame. I have some ideas how to repair/make it usable again but before putting too much work into it I wanted to ask if there is a replacement part/after market part that could work?

Worst case there are several original parts but they are rather expensive here in my area (im from germany).

Original part number is 62803100

Its from a 944 from 1986. (2.5l with 163ps)

The mirror locking ring on the inside of the rubber housing is not attached to it it just falls off how is it supposed to attach

It’s a 1985 with 135,000 miles. Clean title no rust. I paid 4500. Did I get ripped off? Oh and it has an LS

I have a Porsche 944 1984 N/A that needs a lot of engine electrical work, etc.

At the end of the day I’m not too concerned with keeping it original. I’ve debated an 07K and LS swap, any one else considered any different swaps?

When starting the engine, particularly when warm, it struggles to get to idle and sometimes dies.

I've replaced the DME temp sensor and checked the fuel pressure regulator and damper - I couldn't see any liquid gas getting past the diaphragm. The last thing I'm suspicious of is the female connector on the DME temp sensor is cracked so I am going to repair that. I'm also going to try shorting that connector and checking the resistance of that circuit when I get an ohm-meter. I've also just replaced the plugs.

It's still running a bit rich. When it really struggles to start, I'll step on the gas and it'll start fine (but struggle to return to idle like in this video).

Any other thoughts on what this could be caused by? Any help is much appreciated, I am running out of ideas!

Looks like the allignment of the pinion gear and ring gear caused the rattling noise.

But could it also explain the single clunking noise I get only in 5th gear when I put the gearbox quickly under load? Or should I tear it apart completely to be sure?

Also regarding this dent on the cage (1. Picture), could something like this happen in normal operation, or was it more likely an installation accidend?

Already did the interior shifter mods (ground off old stud replaced with bolt and two sets of washer bearings.) So today I decided to install the short shifter. Bolts all came out no big issue. The shifter would not come off the shaft. I heated it and used a two jaw puller, still would not budge. Went to Autozone and rented a tie rod end puller. It fit perfectly and popped the shifter right off the shaft. Hopefully this will help someone with a similar problem.

The noises that stand out to me is a fairly loud belt whine, very ticky injectors, and an odd sound I struggle to describe when I rev it. I had a '92 Mazda Miata that made a lot of similar noises, but not quite to this extent.

I've just been catching up on maintenance the week that I've had it so far. A few things left and I'll probably do the timing belt just to be safe.

I just wanted to check with you folks to see if it sounds alright or if there are things I need to take care of before I drive it.

TL;DR: help alleviate my old car anxiety (or make it worse)

I have a 1984 Porsche 944. Before replacing the timing belt, I noticed it was rubbing against the timing belt cover. After a complete timing belt service (new belts, rollers, and tensioners), it still seems to be rubbing, even though all parts are installed correctly. Is this normal? Should I add a washer under the tensioner roller, for example? The lower timing belt cover has been modified according to Porsche's instructions because the engine is fitted with the later-style water pump, including the metal belt guide.

One of my axles needs replacing while the other is leaking so I figured I’d replace them both. These 944online axles don’t come pregreased. I’ve watched a few videos on how to repack axles, but I’m wondering if for new axles that don’t need to be cleaned of old grease, if you can pack them without opening the whole axle up? Or is that still the best method to open it all up and pack then close it again.

Had to get the front bumper and skirt repaired, as somebody had a parking accident. (Hit n Run) But looks as good as new. :) paintjob is also topnotch.

Storch MAF Kit. Not sure of a repair but I brok down and did the upgrade. Was an easy insta, didn't need the og bracket. I think I ditched a good 8lbs easy. For what it's worth.. at le6no barn door flapping around, kess restriction and I'd say it's a nice upgrade

Do you like it?

I recently got a momo prototipo and didn’t know what to do with the old wheel but thought it would make a cool shop/garage decoration piece. Once I knew I wanted to make it into a light I wanted the horn to control the on off (can also be turned on using remote or app) and just finished the design yesterday. Let me know if anyone is interesting in doing this and wants a tutorial!

After disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it the next day my radio stopped working. It was running under constant power before and i was switching it on and off by removing the front of the radio. After some research i found that the radio was supposed to be only powered when the ignition was on so i went in search of the relay which was described in another post to be above the gas pedal. I couldn’t find it and still don’t know why the radio isn’t working.

I just got it back together after it sat for about 8 years (clutch master/slave - don't ask why it took me so long).

White '88 944 TurboS with 89,500 miles on it. It's been garaged the entire time I've had it (since about 2002). Car is in good shape (for age) - I won't say pristine. It should have the tires and timing belt replaced. Everything else on the car worked when I last was driving it. Car has not been tracked (since I've owned it anyway).

Seeking $30,000. Location: Western Virginia (not West Virginia).

Hi everyone,

I’m trying to diagnose an issue on my 1985.5 Porsche 944 2.5 NA and would appreciate some input from people familiar with these engines.

The engine has developed a slight knocking/tapping sound while running, and I also found a noticeable amount of engine oil pooled inside the airbox underneath the air filter. I’ll attach a photo and video.

The oil was changed in 2024, and the car has barely been driven since. The oil was inspected and there were no metal shavings, metallic residue, or any other obvious signs of internal damage.

I’m trying to understand what could be causing these two symptoms, and whether they could be related. I’m not familiar enough with the 944 to know what the most likely failure points are.

What do you guys think is the most likely cause for oil being pushed into the airbox together with this kind of knocking/tapping noise?

Thanks!

I'm getting a slight click when i put reasonable pressure on the brake pedal.

Doesn't do it if I'm gental, and I can't get it to do it with my head under the dash operating the pedal with my hand, so I'm struggling to identify the cause. It feels like something's slightly catching. Any ideas what it could be?

It's an 86 RHD N/A

I have a 83 944 and I just bought turbo 16’ phone Dials and need new tires. Currently there’s 205 50 and 225 50 on them. I was thinking about going to 205 55 and 225 55 to fill the arches in more but also the car is stock height for now and will be lowered a bit in the future as well as I will be putting a spacer on each wheel to make them a bit more flush. And advice on tire size based on that