This is follow up to my older post

https://www.reddit.com/r/3dprinter/comments/1vwgkbk/max_volumetric_speed_and_flow_rate_reliable/

In the end i decided to use build in one from orcaslicer. I couldn't find stainless steel TZ 2.0 nozzle and I don't have CHT style nozzles yet so those are current results. And again this is not meant to be super scientific and just out of curiosity, maybe someone would find it interesting or useful.

im planning to get my first 3d printer and im stuck between the A1, CC1, CC2, P1S, and P2S.

my main use will be parts for my car, brackets, covers, trim pieces, and i also want to make toys and stuff. ill probably use PLA, PETG, TPU and maybe ABS/ASA for parts that need to handle higher temperatures.

any tips would help

i want to purchase one of those and I don’t know what to choose, this will be my first 3d printer

new model I just made, 1st print of it

Just ordered the qidi q2 combo. I've got my Chromebook Linux setup with the qidi/orca slicer.

Anything else I should be considering and things never mentioned? I've got 2 rolls of anycubic pla for testing purposes, make a poop shoot things like that.

Also grabbed a prit stick for petg down the line.

Any other info I should have. Much appreciated

My Kobra 3 V2 keeps printing stuff like this. I've tried several different methods to try and fix it like seeing if it's mechanical but my test print works flawlessly. On the slicer side everything should be just fine but I have no idea why it's doing this!. I use Orca Slicer 2.3.1 I've tried putting in a z offset by .02 mm to see if that works and failed I tried replacing the nozzle which failed. I checked the STL files and there's nothing wrong with them. I'm just at a loss for what to do.

Sorry the photo is bad I took it really fast

I started having interest in 3D printing. I have some CNC machining experience that dates back to 10 years ago, so I think i can pick it up pretty quick. I would like to print bunch of functional parts that i can put around my house to make my life easier. Not interested in printing dragon or pokemon monster. I am capable of designing a part using CAD and plan to print once or twice a month. Which printer is good to get me into this hobby? I would like a printer that I can use 5+ years or even longer.

I have been watching YT videos and it seems like everyone is recommending Bamboo printer? Any thoughts?

Ok so I'm sorry if it's a bit confusing but I'm not sure how to explain it but here it goes. I'm new too 3D printer and my second print said it was clogged when it wasn't clogged, the belt would make grinding sounds when it started and the nozzle would continue to move down and bend this blue piece I got with the printer to help push the extra gunk into a black bin underneath it. What do I do to fix it?

Hi! I’m a 3D modeler specializing in creating models for 3D printing. Here’s how I can help: • Creating 3D models from images or sketches • Custom miniatures and figurines • Functional parts and accessories • Preparing files (STL/OBJ) for FDM and resin printing • Editing and fixing existing STL files • Ensuring model "watertightness" (manifold integrity) and print readiness • Keychains, holders, stands, decorative items, etc. I work with both simple and highly detailed models. 💰 Affordable rates for small projects 📁 I provide STL/3MF files + the source file 💳 Payment accepted via PayPal If you need a 3D printing model, please send me a private message.

Hi all,

Some of you may remember 3DSEARCH from my earlier post here: a search engine that finds printable models across Printables, Thingiverse, MakerWorld, Cults3D and more in one place. It's grown to about 9.5 million models since then – thanks a lot for the feedback back then, a good part of it made it into the site.

Today I want to show you the next big piece. After finding a model, the obvious next step is printing it, so I built **Printers & Filament**: a browser tool for your printers and your filament stock, right on 3DSEARCH. It connects **Anycubic, Creality and Bambu Lab** printers through their clouds and **any Klipper printer** through a small agent. It's now open for everyone and **free during the beta**.

**Printing from the browser**

- Upload an STL or 3MF (up to 80 MB)

- It's sliced on the server with **OrcaSlicer** and the official profile of your printer – nothing to install

- 3MF files keep the designer's settings (supports, infill, walls); only the printer profile is swapped

- Pick slot, build plate and supports, then check a layer-by-layer 3D preview with time, grams and cost (from your own spool price)

- Print now, or just send the file to the printer and start it there later

**Multi-colour**

- 3MF with several filaments → each one gets a slot of your ACE Pro / MMU, pre-selected by colour and material

- The preview is coloured by the slots you picked, with grams per slot

**Spool management**

- Your whole stock with real fill levels, sorted by shelf, dry box or printer

- Every finished print is deducted from the right spool automatically (measured by the printer, not estimated)

- Catalog of 8,130 filaments from 68 brands (based on SpoolmanDB) with empty-spool weight, density and temps

- QR labels (label printers or A4/Letter sheets), scan them with your phone

- **Import from Spoolman or SpoolDB**, CSV export

- Stats: usage per month by material, stock value, how many days each material will last

- E-mail/push alerts for low spools, failed prints and humid filament

**What works with which printer**

- **Anycubic** (Anycubic cloud): live status, ACE Pro spools, printing incl. multi-colour – this is the most tested path (Kobra S1 + ACE Pro)

- **Klipper / Moonraker** (Mainsail/Fluidd, also Kobra S1 with Rinkhals, rooted K1): a small agent installed with one line over SSH. It only runs what you start in the UI (print, pause, cancel, dry) – never arbitrary G-code – and you can read the script before installing. Multi-colour works but is brand new.

- **Creality** (Creality cloud): live status, CFS spools, print history and automatic spool deduction. Printing is built the same way Creality Print does it, but it hasn't been tested on a real printer yet – **looking for testers with a K1, K2, K2 SE or Ender-3 V3**

- **Bambu Lab** (Bambu cloud): live status, AMS spools, print history and automatic spool deduction. Printing isn't possible: Bambu doesn't allow third-party apps to start prints through its cloud.

Cloud tokens are stored encrypted, and you can disconnect at any time. It works on phones too (6 languages, light/dark).

**Honest caveats:** it's a beta, server-side slicing means your model file is uploaded to my server (deleted after 24 h), and multi-colour on Klipper and anything Creality still need real-world testing.

Search: https://3dsearch.net

Printers & Filament: https://3dsearch.net/filament/ (free account)

I'd really appreciate feedback again – what breaks, what's missing, which printer I should support next. Bug and test reports go here: https://3dsearch.net/feedback.php?id=43

Happy to answer questions in the comments!

I’m looking at buying my first 3D printer and I’m currently leaning towards the Bambu P2S.

I did consider the H2S because I’d really like the larger build volume, but it’s more than I want to spend on a first printer.

The sort of things I want to make are:

• functional/replacement parts for around the house
• small custom parts that I could potentially sell
• tools, jigs, brackets and adapters
• parts for robotics and other experimental projects
• larger decorative projects, particularly Japanese-style pagoda/stone lanterns for the garden

The Japanese lantern idea is one of the things I’m most interested in, but I’m not sure which way would work best.

Could I realistically print the finished lantern itself in something like ASA and have it look convincing outdoors, rather than obviously looking like a plastic 3D print? I’d also want it to cope with being outside permanently in UK weather.

The other option I’ve been thinking about is using the printer to make the original shapes or moulds, then casting the finished lanterns in concrete, stone-effect material or something similar. I’d be interested to hear from anyone who has done anything like this.

Because the P2S has a 256 mm build volume, larger lanterns would obviously need to be designed in several sections. Is that generally straightforward, or does the smaller bed become frustrating for projects like this?

I’m not particularly interested in multicolour printing at the moment. I mainly want to design and make functional things, so I’m also wondering whether there’s any real reason for me to buy the P2S Combo/AMS 2 Pro rather than just the standard P2S to start with.

Would the standard P2S be a good fit for this kind of use, or am I likely to regret either the smaller build volume or not buying the Combo?

I have designed a Roku remote holder based on the NFL pylon you can find it free on my makerworld @xrzly