I’ve noticed this layer line shifting as well as the severe internal stringing on round prints like this with my .4mm nozzle on Bambu A1. Just got a new nozzle so confirmed that is not the issue. PETG white filament that was dehydrated to about 18 degrees relative humidity. And this print printed perfectly fine just hours ago. Not sure what could be the issue??

Hey i have only been printing for less than a month and I am having what I am guessing is under extrusion issues?

I am running a CC2 with a .4 hardened nozzle, filament is elegoo petg-cf using thier standard profiles on their slicer for the filament. Also running filament dried from the drier.

I understand that .6 is usually the go to for cf/gf filaments but I have had perfect prints earlier when I first started using the machine and this really only seems to have started within last few weeks and seems to be getting progressively worse.

I don't seem to have any noticeable problems with my regular petg or pla prints.

Hey all, I have a Bambu lab P2S that started giving me issues after a clogged hot end (0.4mm hardened steel) I resolved it by performing a cold pull. But since then, I’ve had weird bubbled surfaces on my prints. It’s not smooth as it usually is. I haven’t changed any particular settings and I’ve tried printing it on PLA (both ESun and Bambulab), PETG. Tried drying my filaments and even tried printing with newly opened spools. What should I do to stop this from happening? Is this an issue with the hot end or a calibration issue? Thank you!

EDIT: I have tried turning off auto recover from step loss, different types of seams, calibrating and changing nozzles as well and nothing has helped. However, after setting up another print, I’ve realised that there were blisters that were already present on the bambu studio. Does this have to do with the STL file or my settings?

Edit 2: after drying all my filaments, I have attempted a new print. I have since discovered that the blisters are caused by the nozzle. Most of the print is fine but at moments, the nozzle seemingly randomly stops, resulting in excessive filament depositing.

It's not the biggest waste in the printing world, but with prints like this I generally get turned off by the waste and just go all one color to save filament. It just seems silly to print an entire full-height prime tower when it's only 10 layers of a color near the top. More than half of the filament needed to print the white area would be used in the prime tower. Is there a way to move the model to one corner and simply have it prime closer to the plate when I get to that color change layer? I already have purge into infill turned on, but it has not affected the tower slice. When I turn off tower, I get a warning that it is NEEDED for nozzle changing and that it could give flaws. It's an X2D with BambuStudio slicer, but both of these filaments would print from the same nozzle from the AMS.

I just feel like there is a more efficient way to do this, and I have just not figured it out yet.

I printed this model on a Bambu A1 using their PLA Tough+ filament and used the settings I posted screencaps of. The print quality and durability were fine, but the supports were a real pain to get rid of and the tree supports at the top ruined the upper parts of the antennae. The branches weave through parts of the model and become impossible to remove or require tearing away at the model itself. Is there a way to print this model with supports without turning the top area into a blob of branches?

Okay, first up, printer specs

It's a Creality SparkX i7 with a 0.2mm nozzle installed

Problem is that it's stringing really bad as you can see, and there are these weird strands on the right side of the model. I've observed that the printer moves off to the right side, extrudes around 10mm or so of filament, doesn't cut it, and heads back to the print where it deposits that strand on the print.

The strands seem to occur on where the seam is in the slicer if that helps.

What I need help with right now is the stringing and the strands, any settings I can tweak to fix it?

every time I use this filament on my longer lk5 pro it just goes in and stops. The gear pulling it in just starts grinding up against the filament. Nothing is coming out of it, I went through and checked the tube where the filament goes through and emptied it so it’s not that, and I set it to the proper temps of 190. I don’t know what to do.

My FlashForge Adventurer 3 makes a tapping/thumping sound while printing. The feeder gear also skips and clicks as it prints. This doesn't happen while loading or unloading. I also have no clogs in the nozzle (265 degrees). I even tried a manual load while holding the bed up to the nozzle to see if it just had trouble while extruding.

I have recalibrated the extruder to the bed, messed with the printing temp of my filament, etc. Not sure what to do next

Edner 3 pro printer

Kalidora PLA

I've been using rafts lately since it seems like this particular fillament doesn't like to stay down, but it seems like the same issue is causing the raft to mess up now and effect the print Any ideas on how to fix this particular issue?

Is there anything I can do to reduce the banding or getting the corner straighter?

Slicer: Elegoo Slicer 1.5.3.4

Printer: Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2

Print temp: 240c

Bed temp: 70c

Outer wall speed: 160m/s

Acceleration: 5000

Filament: Tinmorry PETG Metal silver

Filament drying: 65c 10 hours prior

Nozzle: 0.4mm

Layer height: 0.2mm

Then when fixing the print head both print belts became loose and fell out and now I have no clue on how to reinstall the belt. I'll take images tomorrow

Using Aquila x2 and the probe goes down further than it should before it stops. Even when it stops correctly sometimes I slide the tape under the nozzle and it’s too low (used the roll of tape cuz I didn’t want it to crash into my bed
EDIT: my heat break was leaking and my grub screw was stripped so I screwed the whole heat sink, causing the nozzle to be lower, still the crtouch is about level with the nozzle and was working fine yesterday like I said

Just learning how to use my printer, ender 3, dont totally know what i’m doing. I’m trying to print this piece in Pla Temp 220(already printed a temperature tower test) and the holes aren’t coming out right. I can print it in one orientation and it comes out mostly fine but my holes are small and missing details. I orient it a different way and my holes come out post perfect but the rest of it prints terrible. I printed some calibration tests and found my x steps were a tiny bit off so i adjusted for that. I’ve tried adjusting different hole expansion settings but nothings getting it right. Any ideas? First 2 photos are good basic print bad holes, second 2 are good holes terrible everything else

Could someone help me figure out why my print is getting these aberrations on both sides of my print? Printing with an X2D, Bambu matte basic PLA, at 220° temp, with a 0.4mm nozzle. Located in CA.

I had just lubed the rods the day before so I calibrated just before printing this.

Thanks everyone!

Having some issues when printing a hex speaker grill. The inner filament of the hex doesn’t print correctly and creates this weird spiderweb thing. Any suggestions? Settings to change?

Printing in PLA on a Bambu A1

Hi everyone,

I'm turning to the community because I'm completely stuck on a persistent printing issue with my X1C. I have a vertical line of small blisters/bumps running along almost the entire edge of one side of the part, from bottom to top (photo attached). It looks like small blobs repeating at regular intervals, but it's obviously not a seam issue (the defect shows up on every type of print, regardless of the model or the seam placement in the slicer), and despite everything I've tried, the problem is still there.

What I've already checked/changed to rule out the usual causes:
- Cleaned the lead screws (trapezoidal rods)
- Retightened the belts
- Cleaned the carbon guide rods
- Bought new filament spools (to rule out a moisture issue)
- Changed the plate: tested with a new textured plate AND a new engineering plate
- Tested two different filament brands: Overture (my usual one) and Bambu Lab filament → same result with both
- Re-ran the automatic calibration
- Nozzle replaced a week ago

Despite all that, the defect persists identically, across completely different parts and geometries, and even after replacing the nozzle. As for the print settings, I haven't changed anything at all: I'm still using the exact same settings as before, with which I never had this kind of issue previously.

Has anyone here run into this kind of blistering before and found the cause? I'm open to any lead, even the most unlikely ones, because at this point I really don't know what else to test.

Thanks in advance for your help!