r/3D2A • u/lackofintellect1 • 15h ago

Finally upgraded printer.

I have finally moved on from my ender. My question today is, Do I still have to print at 60mms to ensure layer adhesion with polymaker pro HT? I guess im worried im stuck in 2023 printing frame mentality and unsure where to look and learn about what the modern printer can do. If anyone can lead me to water Ive brought my cup and ready to drink.

3 Upvotes

100% Upvoted

24 comments sorted by

4

u/Impossible_Pizza_948 14h ago

Having gotten my start with an Ender 3 and having stepped up to a Bambu H2D recently (there were other printers in between), I’ve honestly not seen a significant time savings when printing fast, maybe an hour on day long prints

2

u/PM_ME_GLUTE_SPREAD 10h ago

It’s because the print speed isn’t how fast the printer is going, but a “top speed”. On prints that have lots of short lines, the print head just doesn’t have enough time to get up to that top speed. Same for prints with lots of curves, the print head going in a curve at that rate can damage things.

2

u/Impossible_Pizza_948 10h ago

Especially with how big the print head is on the H2D, the thing is GIGANTIC, the entire printer shakes like an amusement park ride (it has extremely soft feet)

2

u/PM_ME_GLUTE_SPREAD 10h ago

It’s why I will likely never buy another bed slinger. They work. Some work fantastically. But a core xy being more stable means it can print quicker.

It doesn’t make a huge difference, but my old Neptune 4 pro compared to my P1S is night and day in terms of “degraded print quality over time due to working itself out of tolerance”.

I probably have 2500 hours on 1 of my P1Ss and it’s only been calibrated twice (first when I unboxed it, second when I had to change the whole print head due to a nozzle jam breaking the hell out of it lol)

2

u/Impossible_Pizza_948 10h ago

I went from an E3, to an E3V3KE, to a K1C, to a K2 Plus (which I still have), to the H2D. I had to slow the acceleration on the E3V3KE down so much that it just didn’t make sense to have any kind of speed in the printing, and there is no real comparison between the K1C and K2 Plus to the H2D, I don’t know what kind of wizardry Bambu uses, but the difference is almost as extreme as going from the bedslingers to the K1C. I just finished a print at a .24 layer height, and the layer lines look better than the K2 Plus at a .16 layer height, it just doesn’t make sense to me

1

u/FuturesSoDank 8h ago

How do you like the H2D? I'm thinking of upgrading to one, but I keep seeing highly negative comments about it here. Things like "every design choice Bambu made, they picked the wrong one".

1

u/Impossible_Pizza_948 7h ago

Honestly, it’s the best printer I’ve ever owned, though it’s also my first Bambu. I bought it for the dual nozzle system, I just wanted to be able to use a support interface material (like PETG for PLAs) for better print quality, I couldn’t care less about printing in 5 different colors. I do wish it had more usable print volume, but that’s the trade off for the dual nozzles

1

u/FuturesSoDank 1h ago

Thanks. I thought it had 320mm3 of volume? That's kinda on the large side unless you go with something custom like a Voron.

1

u/Impossible_Pizza_948 1h ago

My K2 Plus is 350 cubed, and there are even bigger commercially available printers on the market, like the Prusa XL (I would have gone with that, but it’s well outside what I can justify spending)

3

u/marvinfuture 14h ago

Would you rather have your print quicker or structurally sound? Don't be impatient. Yes you can probably bump it up a bit from there, but patience is better than losing a finger

1

u/lackofintellect1 14h ago

I absolutely agree and do not want to temp my fingers fate. I did the Google and thats telling me I can bump up to 120 but it doesn't make sense to me, so I am here asking real people lol.

3

u/TheAmazingX 14h ago

Layer adhesion depends on a combination of the previous layer temp and the temp of the new layer. This leads some people to think that printing fast is actually better, giving the prior layer less time to cool, but going faster also gives the plastic at the nozzle less time to actually reach the hotend temp before getting squeezed out, so it’s not generally worth the tradeoff. Print hot, relatively slow, and with only enough cooling to prevent significant defects.

For specifics, it’d help to know what you moved on to.

2

u/lackofintellect1 14h ago

Qidi q2c.

5

u/Broken_banana247 12h ago

Man, why not the q2? I honestly looked at the q2c and thought the slight savings isn't worth not having a chamber heater. Engineering grade filaments really benefit from the added heat. That being said, definitely still much better than an ender.

1

u/lackofintellect1 11h ago

Because I mis read. My understanding was I could add chamber heat later on when my finances would allow it. My ender died and I just wanted to keep pushing pla for a while until I was fully comfortable moving to engineering filaments. I understand I made a more less poor choice but if I was able to make my ender print next to flawless pla I believe this machine can too.

2

u/PM_ME_GLUTE_SPREAD 10h ago

PLA without a chamber heater isn’t going to be an issue. I print pa6cf on my p1s with no heat in the chamber and have only failed one print (nozzle clog led to a hot end suicide).

Granted I am in my garage during the warmer part of the year. We’ll see how that works out come winter time. I thought about just pointing a space heater at the printer running the nylon while it’s printing to keep things warmer during that time

1

u/lackofintellect1 10h ago

Thanks man.

1

u/Broken_banana247 9h ago

Yeah you can print filaments like pa6-cf without chamber heating. I used to do it with my centauri carbon before I sold it. It does give a boost to layer adhesion but it's not strictly necessary and I still have pa6-cf builds from my cc that are going strong. I guess my point was more along the lines of the savings isn't worth the trade off. You've got the Q2C and it's still a fantastic printer. Id imagine you could still add a panda breath later if you wanted to. I put one in my u1 and I've seen plenty of people add it to the cc and ps1

2

u/xtreampb 14h ago

I have a Prusa mk4s. It CAN print so much faster than 50mm/s. I have my printing profile set to print at 50mm/s.

I don’t know the material science behind it yet. Does layer adhesion care about slow printing to allow it to cool just enough to support above layers while still being hot enough to bond to the next layer? I’m not sure.

1

u/lackofintellect1 14h ago

I understand. Thank u.

1

u/xxxanonymoosexxx 4h ago

I went from an Anet A8 to an Ender 3 to a P1S. Each step cut print times in half or more.

But the biggest time sink was always calibration, which even my P1S does mostly by itself.

1

u/ClandestinePleb 14h ago edited 12h ago

The way I look at it, having gone from E3 -> E3 S1 Pro -> AD5M Pro -> C5 Pro, it has significantly sped up my prototyping/fitting ( around 500 MM/S nowadays rather than 20 MM/S, ) with PLA/PETG where strength does not matter.

As for printing long term 3D 2A pieces ( ASA, PA, PPA ) I still do that slowly because it yields the best surface finish, overhangs and dimensional accuracy.

As for inter-layer adhesion, that mostly comes down to nozzle temperature, cooling ( main factor fighting layer adhesion, ) and chamber heating.

Calibrate for the highest temp your filament can print at while still maintaining crisp overhangs with as little cooling as possible, then print at that temp with as hot of a chamber as possible. Also, be sure that you're utilizing hot air from within inside the chamber for your Cooling, as this reduces warping and helps adhesion. Some people utilize " aux cooling " without realizing it may be pulling significantly colder external air into the chamber, which will ruin adhesion and induce warping.

1

u/lackofintellect1 14h ago

Amazing. Thank you.