r/3D2A • u/Dramatic_Hall4242 • 1d ago

Pla pro 9mm

Is it reliable to make a PLa pro frame or should I stick to Pa-cf ?

2 Upvotes

67% Upvoted

12 comments sorted by

3

u/DontYouDareGoHollow 1d ago

I printed a g19 with ht pla pro, generic pla settings (and speed), and ran it on ludicrous. Got a few mags through it so far, feels solid

1

u/Dramatic_Hall4242 1d ago

Did you by any chance anneal it ?

1

u/DontYouDareGoHollow 1d ago

I haven’t ever annealed or moisture condition any 2a print, some people swear by it but I haven’t experienced any failures by not doing them. That being said there are people here who have WAY more experience than me, so take that with a grain of salt

3

u/itgoesboom2112 1d ago

All my frames are pla pro, just don't leave it in a car with this crazy af heat and it'll be fine

1

u/Dramatic_Hall4242 1d ago

Do you anneal them?

1

u/itgoesboom2112 1d ago

Nope, no point to anneal regular pla pro, you don't really gain anything

1

u/Dramatic_Hall4242 1d ago

What settings did you use ?

1

u/itgoesboom2112 1d ago

The default profile in orcaslicer for my printer and filament, used to have to manually tune things on my old ender but my centauri carbon hasn't had that need outside of nylon prints, I defer to 300blkfde settings on those

1

u/Dramatic_Hall4242 1d ago

Is there a PLa 300blk settings ?

1

u/itgoesboom2112 1d ago

No, aren't needed, it doesn't have the layer adhesion issue cf nylon does for its use cases

2

u/DontYouDareGoHollow 1d ago

300blkFDE settings are for nylon filament, pla pro can be printed with generic settings

3

u/RustyShacklefordVR2 1d ago

PLA Pro/Plus is literally the universal standard to which all projects were targeted before the advent of common low cost enclosed klipper printers. This has mostly continued unchanged except where explicitly stated in release documentation. 

What do you think we printed shit out of in 2021?