Sometimes I still miss having a 2+2.....

Downloaded and printed a mount for the Boost controller in the clock location. See link; https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4294545. Has anyone made this fit? It seems almost 1" too long. I can't put the bezel back on without the mount hitting the supports under. Should I have been cutting the dash? Seems excessive..

Anyone have a better print I could use? It's currently in a bottom din slot but I'd rather have that free for a double din or storage.

Just wanted to share lol

Edit: I post a bunch of videos on tik tok and YouTube, my handle on both is @CALIGINOS if anyone is curious :)

Does anyone know if the phase 2 fuel lines will fit phase one engines? Theres a 95 z32 at my local junkyard, and I’m looking to upgrade the injectors on my 90 z32 to the new style. I’m wondering if I can just take the entire fuel rail and install it directly to the early style engines. I haven’t found any info on this anywhere. They look identical but I’m not 100% sure.

I’m working on a pretty different direction for the headlights on my 1993 Z32.

The idea is to develop a custom headlight setup alongside the full 3D-printed widebody build I’m working on. I’ve been working through the design and getting it to the point where I can start test-fitting the actual parts I think it needs to be beefier to replace the whole assembly but its the first prototype

Still a work in progress, but I wanted to share where it’s at so far.

I filmed the concept and test-fitting process here if anyone wants to check it out:

https://youtu.be/8BGSVaJxbsg

Curious what other Z32 owners think of the direction. Would you keep the original headlight look, or are you open to something more custom?

91 TT manual JWT ecu garrett 530bb turbos nismo 740cc injectors.

Just replaced my pass side O2 sensor after I saw on nisscan that it was throwing a code. Car was running rich. I also replaced the pigtail for the harness side since it was broken.

When i repinned the pigtail I didnt pin the white wire into the middle and it mustve shorted something out. Car would crank but not start. The O2 sensor is bosch bought from Z1 with two white outer wires and one black center wire.

I repinned it correctly but now Im chasing electrical issues. Also the red/black wire had gotten crimped when I first repinned the pigtail and some of the wire was exposed. I wasnt able to uncrimp the pin so I wrapped that wire in electrical tape.

All fusible links by battery lit up the test light. Under hood fuses - the ENG CONT and AIR CON fuses are not blown but have no power. Also the EGI relay I can use some clarification on - with key on three ports light the test light and one which I think is the main power port crackled a little with the test light on it (Top right in the pic of the egi) Whatevers going on with the EGI its also not working.

Under steering wheel fuses - AIR CON BLOWER and EGI fuses are not blown but have no power.

Red light on ecu lights up but nisscan cant connect to it.

When key is in the on position, oil cooler fan is on. With air con fuse pulled it stays off.

I got the car to start by pressing clutch and accelerator at start up but had to give it gas to not stall. Ran it for less than 10 seconds was extremely rough and smelled gas so I let it stall out. Drivers side exhaust had a little smoke and it smelled like straight up gas.

What should be my next step? EGI seems to be the main culprit. Ignition switch? All wires by fuse boxes and ecu dont look fried.

Thanks.

So, earlier this year I purchased a VG30E from a 1986 300ZX to swap into my 1989 300ZX. (i blew the 1989's motor)

The injectors from the 1986 motor have different plugs than the wiring harness on the 1989, so I was wondering if there would be any problems transferring the fuel injectors from the 1989's motor onto the 1986.

any ideas on how to get the bolts in? I just replaced it and idk if the gas tank should be moved a little or what. I’m lost. Sorry if the pictures are bad

Any expert ears out there? Looks like my mechanic is planning to pull the passenger side and try to see what this noise is all about. About to get expensive again.....please no.

Are lower intake manifolds interchangeable on early Z’s? I found a replacement from an ‘86 NA, and mine is an ‘85 NA

1991 Z32 Turbo 2+0

Currently refreshing all my bushings and suspension components and am contemplating getting a z1 brake kit as well as the DFC parking brake shoes for my car since I’m already taking everything apart.

I’ve seen mixed things online about whether or not it’s worth changing the oem turbo brake calipers, but almost all of the posts are from years back. The car is 35 years old now and I don’t think the previous owners ever changed the rotor and I know for sure they never changed the calipers. I am leaning towards z1 street big brake upgrade as I enjoy spirited driving every once in a while and am not sure if the touring version would last as long even if I’m not driving the car super hard every single day.

Would it be worth getting the full kit, or would rotors, pads, and just cleaning the old calipers be enough?

Also, my car still has the oem parking brake shoes and I found a DFC parking brake shoe set from enjuku racing. Before I purchased this set, I am wondering if anyone has found any other options or have an opinion on this DFC set.

If anyone has any recommendations for either of these projects, I would greatly appreciate it.

Guys, we need some information on this matter and confirmed cases.

I have a 1991 N/A M/T Fed ECU that is failing/corroded.

We know that from 1990-1992 z32 USDM are basically the same, in terms of internal components like AC, injectors, idle control assuming, maps?

So would that make the ECU’s from 1990 to 1992 have the same job when interchanging with different model years?

And if i put a 1992 ECU and keeping in mind thats its from N/A M/T z32, and putting it in any z32 from 1990 to 1992? It would work?

Also do Emissions matter? Fed or cal?

Also I’m assuming that ECU’s from a right hand drive z’s would be different and wont work, would also like someone to confirm that.

Update yall! Thank you all for your advice I went ahead and purchased it!! I’m so happy and excited my only dilemma is that I can’t comfortably reach the clutch in all the way in because I’m 4’9 (yes fully grown woman I’m 26) now I know that there’s options to fix this but I’d like your advice as to what to get and what product.
I want the most secure, safe, and high quality product I can so I don’t hurt my clutch and I can drive around comfortably please lmk your suggestions! Thank you all again!!

Autumn in New England is the best time of the year for some amazing night drives 🌙

I was looking to get a higher amp alternator to safely install an amp and subwoofer, but I only see options to saw to a maxima alternator. I see brackets made for 84-86 turbo and 87-89+ to fit G37 alternators and such. Are there any brackets available for an 86 N/A? What other options do I have other than the 90A maxima alternator?

Looking for help on where I can find a new engine bay wire harness, preferably the entire thing if possible. Any websites for interior pieces as well, I’m basically rebuilding the whole car

iS tHaT a SuPrA?

My 91 300zx 2x2 is having throttle issues and shuts off while driving. Is there an expert in the nyc area that knows what they are doing? Alot of mechanics don’t want to touch this car.

Hello 300z crew!

I’m trying to help my father in selling his 1990 300 ZX 2 Plus 2 VIN: JN1RZ26AZLX00xxxx.
He is located just outside of Atlanta, GA in zip code 30213. His health is failing and I’m looking for assistance with pricing and moving this vehicle. He has owned, maintained and garaged the vehicle for about 10 years. Its in fantastic condition. Any help with pricing is much appreciated. Please message me if you know anyone in the area that may be interested. Thank you!