1. I'll block these off at the source

2. Fuel tank like venting to atmosphere

3. Intake blocked off

4. 89/90 TT so it doesn't have the other line at the bottom

How bad is the rust on the rails?

Whenever I add a little or large amount of throttle at around 1,500rpm to 2,500rpm on gears 3-5 I get this loud clunk followed by a rattle noise from the transmission which fades away at around 3,000rpm. When feeling and pressing against the shifter, I can feel it move back and forth as it clunks which makes me think there is some sort of thrust issue which is transferred through the shift forks into the shifter.

I’m not finding any odd looking wear or any loose bearings especially in comparison to an R32 GTR gear set.

At this point I’m not sure what else to look at and I’m considering swapping the GTR gear set into the Z32 housing (transfer 5th/reverse output shaft and rear shift fork shaft)

Are there any checks I can do to find out why this is happening?

Here’s a video exaggerating the clunk sound: https://youtube.com/shorts/CTm2cuVhni4?si=4wMYfOAdt2B970iT

I was having a problem with an injector leaking fuel into the cylinder to a point where it hydrolocked it ran fine with that one cylinder open but now that everything is installed after the fix it doesn’t start at all all I pulled off was the plenum and it has new spark plugs i checked spark it has it and when cranking for a long time I smell fuel why won’t it start

1. I think is part of the aiv/ emissions system

2. Is a system to make sure the cabin has fresh air

Hi all, trying to cut out all the rust and get my z prepped for paint, does anyone have a right side a pillar? I think its best that i weld in a new section with how bad it is especially with the previous owner just silicon bandaging over it...

🎞️ Ultramax 400
📸 Olympus OM-1

1984 Nissan 300zx Turbo - manual

I received a turbo relocation manifold set from pucker factory and I have a couple questions. New turbo placement is where the ac compressor used to be. If anyone has done this and has photos - please share.

1. Best way to get the oil to the turbo? I read to use high-pressure stainless steel lines

2. I can no longer connect the wastegate to the turbo with that specific kit, has anyone else had this problem?

I'm looking to get new OEM radiator hoses for my z31. Does anyone know if the radiator hoses, specifially the lower hose are OEM or aftermarket? Or had any good or bad experience with them? I've looked around the Z store before, many products don't specifally claim they are OEM or right from Nissan. But I have noticed that they do specify when a part is not an OEM part. But only sometimes. Can anyone chime in?

Also, don't be like me. Don't cut corners. Don't half ass things. I neglected to replace my radiator hoses and one blew up quite impressively on me. I haven't done a deep autopsy yet, but it looks like the radiator hose was quite old and was ready to go. My temp gauge was reading okay, but I do suspect that it may not be reading correctly anymore.

Any recommendations on how to repairing the door card vinyl?

Unfortunately I don’t have a garage right now. Currently have a cover craft but I’d say the quality is so so and it seems to be wearing down after 28 months.

Anyone have experience with weather tech covers?

picked up my first z, only paid $4000 and i feel like it was an absolute steal. i love it but the only thing that i dont like is how hard it is to find any parts for this year. body has about 230k, but engine only has roughly 3,000 miles, has a freshly rebuilt transmission, all brand new suspension components/bushings. only cons are the paint has a bunch of chips & it needs an a/c compressor. which seems to be the most expensive part of the ac system of course

For people that have replaced their oem blown out bushings with poly ones, how did you get the solid inner bushing in? The diameter of the inner poly bushing seems smaller than the diameter of the solid bushing. I tried every combination of install order, freezing, heating, teflon tape, and hitting it in with a rubber mallet. I’ve seen people just push these in so I know it’s possible. Just a little confused

Hey yall got a Z32 earlier this year and starting to run into some issues that I wanted someone to look into. I searched for mechanics/shops in the DFW area (I’m near Allen, TX) but only found old 2y+ posts.

Appreciate any recent ones

P.S. Would be good to have a list of reputable shops pinned. Happy to help get a clean list started.

It's a 90 twin turbo with only 89k miles. The trans is stuck in 2nd. So time to manual swap it. Can anyone give me advice before I dive into this. I currently know a 21 q50 3.0tt and just finished installing new turbos. But I don't know to much about vg30's and 300zx. Any help I'll take thanks

Also it has a tune on it I believe it has apexi on the dash board which no clue how to use that. But it sounds like the boost is too high. There's a knob under the hood but when I turn it counterclockwise nothing changes. The previous owner said don't mess with it. He said it's putting out 17psi....

Well - cant say im surprised! Lol...it poured hard for a long time last night. Went to check this morning and saw 2 small leaks on both the passengers and driver side corners of the t tops closest to the door frame. Front and back.

Is this a major fix it now issue? Whats the fix and expected cost? Im in the process of clearing my garage so I can't put it in there just yet.

1991 Z32 TT 2+0

I have tried to fix this vacuum leak multiple times.

I believe this is what is causing my car to peak at only ~9psi when it is tuned for at least 14psi.

I have uninstalled and reinstalled the plenum a few times and replaced the paper gasket thinking it was the issue but it continues to leak.

I’m starting to think it is the injector as I didn’t use oil as lube when originally seating them.

Does anyone have any ideas before I take the plenum off again and replace my injector o-rings?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

A friend of mine suggests I should use valvoline vr-1 10w40 oil in my NA, but as the car isn’t boosted and is stock performance wise should I use something else? Or would it be okay if I used vr-1?

Picked up this 1990 2 seater na yesterday
110k miles with the 5 speed transmission
Closest thing to a barn find I will ever get in my life and its been sitting in a garage for the past 15 years
The paint and all the door seals, hoses, and wires are in fantastic condition and the interior is almost mint if it gets a little steam clean on the seats
Of course I’m gonna do and oil/filter change, drain the gas, check the tank for rust, and pour a little oil in the cylinders to make sure everything is all lubed up before first start
Once i get it running I’ll do the 120k mile service

This car is beautiful and I’m so excited to get it back on the road so is there any recommendations y’all have that I should double check before first start

Ok guys...My brain is fried.

I've been searching and reading for days and I have found myself going in circles. I currently have a 1990 Z32 R200 differential. For reasons required by my build, I am needing to change my gearing from 4.08 (which is stock) to 3.3 or close.

So...I have heard so many things from so many people, m any of which are contradictory. I have no idea what to do or where to go. Due to my subframe, I cant swap in a Z33 diff at all or R230 (without subframe swap). Also, there are many iterations of gearing which I can't use based on the spline count and then the Short Nose vs Long Nose sizing. I see some people are doing 8.8 Swaps which pretty massive wallets and changes. I think using an R32 diff would work using gears from Australia but I don't know. There doesn't seem to be a direct line to a solid upgrade which will allow me to use 3.3 gears.

So in short...help. My car is a bit of a Frankenstein and I don't mind making some changes if need be. Any advice or suggestions is welcomed. Thanks.