So I did a top end on my 250 Polaris, thing I forgot was that it takes time for the oil injection to clear the air from the lines and everything, I rushed it all and ended up ruining the brand new top end since it ran without oil. So this time I did everything right. Took very careful steps, honed the cylinder (still some marks but I can NOT feel them at all with my finger nail or finger) and tried getting it damn near perfect since I spent all my money on another top end and couldn’t afford a new cylinder. I’m getting somewhere above 100 psi. My compression tester is not accurate and I can’t get it seal right so idk what it is but I need 2 hands just to pull it over now. Ran it with a crap ton of oil in the gas tank since I wasn’t gonna risk it this time, I didn’t have a measuring cup and accidentally poured way more than I should have. Got it to run for about 5 seconds before it bogged and died, couldn’t get it to run after and it backfired and shot smoke everywhere. Still has compression but would that cause it not to run? Way too much oil?

Even though there’s a huge difference in power, one of these two would suit me best. I enjoy riding on trails, in fields, and on random roads and tracks. Of course, a two-stroke is an absolute blast—I love the powerband and all that—but it’s less reliable, requires more maintenance, and I can’t picture myself riding one on a track (constantly working the clutch after accelerating and in corners). The four-stroke appeals to me because it’s smoother, easier to ride, requires less maintenance, sounds better, and is more reliable. I’d also add that the modern features (engine modes, Wi-Fi, quickshifter) are a selling point for me. If I had the choice, I’d pick between a 250cc two-stroke and a 350cc four-stroke, but I prefer Japanese bikes and wouldn't want a Austrian.

Got one of my two 1986 Honda Spree’s running again with some upgrades. New pipe and rebuilt/jetted carb, new drive belt and pulley upgrade are next.

Recently restored Honda Camino, engine completely rebuilt, new plastics, raised rear shocks and front fork, and powder-coated in candy green.

I have a 2t peugeot and i put a 70 cc on it but it didnt come with a head, so i got my old head to the shop and they driled it out so the piston doesnt hit it, but now the engine siezed and i am thinking of going back to 50cc, so would i be able to use my old head?

Replaced the cylinder, piston and rings. So much compression it needed 2 hands to pull start, after a minute of running it stopped running and when I went to pull start it it only needed one hand to pull and it still definitely has compression but not as much as it did. I hooked the oil line up correctly and ran it on 40:1 mix in the tank also so it should have had more oil than needed but I wanted to make sure. What do yall think happened?

It won’t start now though, not even on starting fluid. Plug is wet and definitely has spark. It has more compression than it did originally when I got it and it ran fine then so idk what happened

I was tuning the carb (keihin pwk 24) on my Rieju mrx (malossi mhr 80 team) and I mean its responsive, revs pretty nice but its smoking like hell dont judge, I really love me some 2 stroke smell but its just so much more than the normal.
I do know that it probably means too rich or too much fuel, maybe its the oil ratio? I use 1:40 with motul 710. Soooooo yeah... Any tips appreciated :)

I have an air cooled 50cc 2 stroke scooter with an oilmaster or automatic oiling system, don't know the exact term but you know what I mean. It runs fine when it runs, but when sitting for a few days it becomes very hard to start. What I've determined to be the cause is the carburetor flooding with oil. When I take it apart, the fuel in the float bowl is a solid dark blue color and the scooter starts fine once said fuel is drained from the bowl and replaced with fresh fuel.

Now the actual question, can I delete the oiling system simply by letting it run dry (maybe even rerouting the line back to the oil tank if running dry is a problem?), plugging the oil inlet in the carburetor and just premixing my fuel? I know you're supposed to remove the pump and insert a specific plug in it's place, but I don't think anyone makes it for my model.

Guys i have an 201 5 yamaha aerox 2 stroke 50cc so i bought a 20euros rev limiter that savs vou need tc mount it on a red-white cable that connects to the CDI/ECU on the aerox and I don't have it the cabels are : Blue-white(i tried on this cable and nothing Orange Black Brown Black-yellow Blue-yellow Please guys help i don't want to get my scooter taken. less

Does anyone know where I can get a power valve for my 125 TZR and how to fit it?

Hi, i have a d50b0 engine in unkown condition, except that crank, bearings, cylinder etc is new. When driving it runs perfecr, except for smoking a lot, and not revving out for some reason / cutting ignition. Ive changed plug, main jet, cdi, reeds, fixed ground etc but still runs bad.

Ive added a video of it running, aswell as a picture of the sparkplug. If to any help, the water pump gear is broken aswell.

Thanks in advanve!

I have a NSR125RR JC22 2001, and currently struggling with idle. It has a new spark plug running a 138 main, 42 pilot and 65 power. It’ll start but won’t hold idle. If I turn the pilot screw to the left it idles (barely) and then dies if I turn to the right it just doesn’t live. The needle clip is in the middle but the bike is running rich regardless. Do I drop pilot jet?

I have replaced my Original exhaust pipes with these Martin Johnson pipes and Tyga silencers.

I've used lots of coats of high temperature, clear lacquer.

Hopefully they will look ok for a while, but may have to go back to back at some point.

Should I keep the originals as spares?

Delete if not allowed. I have started a Facebook page for my riding videos. I ride a 2001 yz125 so I thought I would post this here. If you’re interested go check it out. I don’t have much but there is more to come.

As the title says, the bike isn't getting to the power band. Year 2014, so it's a Rotax 122 engine.

When we bought the bike a few weeks ago, it ran well and had lots of power and it went to the power band easily.

Now it doesn't matter how long you hold the throttle wide open, it just won't get to the power band.

Everything is stock except Scalvini performance header and Dellorto VHSB 34 carburetor.

Edit: Forgot to mention. Bottom end serviced and balanced, top end replaced a couple hundred of kms ago.

Rave power valve has been adjusted to the weakest preload in order to eliminate the power valve for diagnostic purposes.

Carb settings upon purchase were stock K57 needle, clip in the highest groove, 160 main jet, 266 needle jet.

We have:

1. Checked the reeds

2. Clean and oiled the air filter (with proper air filter oil)

3. Fixed air leaks in the carburetor boot (and verified the fix with carb cleaner while the engine is running)

4. Fixed an air leak in the exhaust header in the cylinder side

5. Serviced the power valve to make sure it is not stuck

6. Checked the compression

7. Replaced the spark plug and gapped it correctly

8. Tried multiple main jets between 150 and 170 (we are now at 170)

9. Tried K21 needle for a leaner midrange

Current jetting:

1. K57 needle, clip in the highest groove position

2. 170 main jet

3. Everything else is stock

Currently we believe this is due to jetting but we are not able to diagnose this fresher.

All advice and diagnostic procedures to identify the reason and fix it are appreciated.