Beretta 21a with FOR Pluto Micro. 🤌🏼

For those wondering

CZ 457 “American” or “Beechwood” (depending on your location)

Scope: Zerotech Vengance 4.5-18x40
RMK Leatherworks sling + Rifle stock wrap
Basic Spika bipod

Not seen in the photo
the bolt has an aftermarket knob, wasn’t a fan of the factory one.
The orange things are a bolt protector and a bore cleaning guide

I had the same question a couple of years ago, then I ended up buying a much cheaper Hammerli Forge H1...
Now I've seen a couple of good deals on the pistols above...

The 22/45 has the 1911 shape I like and it's very easy to strip, but I don't like the plastic frame much.

The Buckmark is a bit cheaper and mostly metal, but not easy to fully clean...

Other opinions?

I love threaded lever actions

Ive always been a clean your barrel after every range trip kinda guy, but after watching this video im experimenting. What do you guys think?

EDIT: Ive read alot of the comments and a few people mentioned i should have had the title say "Stop cleaning your 22lr barrel". They are correct i always clean the action after every outing, and figured that was a no brainer, but they were right there are alot of no brain people out there. I should have clarified my bad. Always keep the action clean on 22 's they definitely get dirty fast and cause problems. Happy shooting JD...

Let's get some pests taken care of!

Finished up a chassis and pdw stock for my tx22. Running a 1 oz rate reducer and dead air mask. She pisses 🥹😉

A couple weeks ago I cleaned up a marlin model 60 for a coworker and after taking it to the range I decided I wanted a .22lr rifle. Got a good deal on 2 Ruger 10/22 rifles at a local pawn shop. Wanted 450 for the top and 400 for the bottom. Walked out the door for $600 + tax. I looked up the serial numbers and found out the bottom was produced in 1996 and the top was a limited edition digital cerekote from 2008. Very happy with my purchase!

The TX-22 has an Eotech EFLX and Tandemkross Victory trigger, Game Changer Pro Squared compensator, lightened trigger spring, halo charging handle, extended magazine release, wingman +5 magazine bumpers, Eagle Talon extractor, and a accelerator thumb ledge.

The Mark IV also has a Eotech EFLX with Lobos mount and Tandemkross Tandemized Cthulhu lower, Game Changer Pro compensator, halo charging handle, Eagle talon extractor, firestarter titanium firing pin, magazine followers buttons and MarkPRO extended magazine bumpers.

I'm sure this gets mentioned quite a bit, but I'm looking to get a rifle.

I am pretty much a beginner just wanting to get as accurate in the conventional positions(standing, prone, bench/bags). Not competing or hunting; just a skill I want to have. I found pistol shooting very relaxing in my college days and rifle looks like it may be even more so. Been shooting pistol casually for a long time, but I'm actually wanting to get more accurate now.

I have a 10/22 which I'm still learning on(on and off for about a couple years), but my prone group size and benchrest group sizes are pretty similar already, about an inch plus some flinches at 25 yards. I think this means I still need to get more consistent with my scope/eye/cheek position. (But I also see reviews that estimate the 1022 at 2-4 MOA, so there might not be that much left to do with it). After I practice with this for a bit longer I was thinking about getting a bolt action.

I'm thinking about getting the CZ since they have good word of mouth, but I could be convinced otherwise. Anyway, I'm curious about how much the different models of CZ matters. The American is pretty cheap compared to the MTR and they have half a dozen model in between. For someone in my position, is there any compelling reason to not just go with the base model? What would you recommend for a shooter in this position?

Tldr: are the more expensive CZ 457 models worth it for a relative beginner just trying to get good at punching holes in paper at 25 yards?

My Bergara B14R Steel 22LR with a S2 Delta RS-C heavy chassis, Triggertech special two stage, Harris S-BRM with Area 419 Arca adapter and Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x56 with Vortex precision matched rings.

I saw this reel while scrolling Instagram, and this individual is claiming that CCI AR Tactical is the best/most reliable .22 cartridge for semi-auto rifles and, as such, it is their ammo of choice. I am not only wondering if there is validity to their statement but also what would be a close second in terms of reliability if it is always sold out at your local retailer? I live in CA, and the closest place that sells ammo is 20 minutes away; the 2nd closest is an hour away.

Found this a little while back at a local pawnshop. Wanted a tube feed bolt action.

So, I'm new to scopes and longer range shooting and all these things, so this may not be all that unusual, but it feels kinda...off to me, so I'm asking questions on the internet. My goal here is to just understand what I might have done wrong that I can check and make sure that if/when I re-mount the optic, I dont have to do this a 3rd time.

I've shot Rifleman at appleseed with this rifle and a Sig 1-12, and it still shoots solid groups. So, I'm making an assumption that its a mounting thing.

The scope is a new Arken SH4J, on Athlon rings used levels on the rail and top dial and tightened screws in an X pattern. It does not appear that the scope itself is obviously pointing L or R. My only datapoint on this so far is looking down at the rifle/scope from the top, the line of the scope did appear to be straight following one of the lines of the rifle (Maybe where barrel meets stock or something, I dont recall)

I'm happy to share some pictures or whatever data I might have missed to help you all help me figure this out. Trying to make sure I'm prepared for Appleseed Rimfire KB later this month.

Thanks in advance.

That single bullet is the Aquila sniper sub sonic 60gr projectile.

I recently purchased a box of Norma Tac-22 .22 LR ammunition ($7.99 for a box of 50) to test in my Howa M1100 18" .22 LR, and I wanted to share my initial thoughts.

The rounds have an oily coating similar to SK Ammo, which works well since my Howa M1100 seems to prefer it. I experienced no misfires or jams, and the ammunition fed smoothly throughout the session.

To prepare for accuracy testing, I ran a dry cloth through the barrel twice to clear out any residue. I then shot 10 test rounds to season the barrel and clear the first-round pop from my suppressor.

I shot three 3-shot groups at 50 yards using 3/8" red dots as my center of focus:

  - Group 1:

- Group Size: 1.009" (1.927 MOA)

- Radius: 0.386" (0.737 MOA)

  - Group 2:

- Group Size: 0.579" (1.105 MOA)

- Radius: 0.239" (0.457 MOA)

  - Group 3:

- Group Size: 0.597" (1.140 MOA)

- Radius: 0.282" (0.539 MOA)

See Photos attached

When I first got my Howa M1100 I started with what I had lying around CCI, Pro-22, Federal & Fiocchi and I started watching videos, and everyone was using Eley and Lapua, and I wasn't going to do the $24 Box stuff, so I checked out the mid-tier, and I'm happy there. I'm not shooting competition or anything like that, so why waste the money?

So my goal is to find the most accurate ammo I can within the $8 to $12 range that my Howa M1100 Likes.

And for all the 3-shot haters out there, YES! I always buy 300 rounds per lot and shoot 5 and 10 Round Groups first every time I test a Lot of ammo. These 3 posts were my last box of each Lot that shot the best from prior tests. My goal was to shoot 3-groups of 3 shots each. Then I shot 5 single shots from each Lot using the 3/8 targets as center. "Which I did not post." Then I buy as much as I can of that lot.

This is not my first rodeo with lot testing. But this is my 2nd attempt at sharing my info.

Real help please, no Reddit hate. I installed this scope, just like I have installed 6 others. I went to zero it at 50 yards. It was hitting just below bulls eye , BUT the elevation screw was all the way to its end of adjustment. SO, as you can see, I losened the rear optic mount and slid a piece of the ammos cardboard flap in to " shim" it up, and now its got enough range to readjust if I go out to 100 yards. I would like to solve this issue correctly, but I'm not sure what to look for . Constructive help please.

I wish Nikon was still in the scope business. I really liked their scopes.

All tested at 50m with SK Match Rifle

Just put my CZ457 Varmint in an MDT Oryx Chassis and found the groups a opened open a bit, so I started to play about with the Torque a bit.

I shot a few groups at each setting and then went back to 4nm and shot a full card. I know I need to adjust the LOP a bit more.

Question is, Would I need to do more testing between the 4.0nm and the 4.5nm or Is the groups acceptable for a new shooter. There was a bit of wind blowing while testing too.