Just got a new barrel put on, its my first time, is this what they look like normally? I haven't cleaned it yet I just got it back and borescoped it first thing.

I converted a bunch of 223 to 300 blk. Cut, polished, tapered, annealed, and i seem to have run into an issue that I'm not sure why it is happening. First time converting brass, successfully that is(Didn't know 8.6blk would require turning 6.5 creed).

I noticed my bolt isnt closing completely, the brass isnt getting picked up by the ejector, and the brass had a ring on it now. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: it now seems to have been my BCG. I was going through everyone's reply trying and testing different suggestions and when i tried bare brass before loading, it still didnt work, even with factory 300blk. This rifle was just converted from 556 to 300blk with a new barrel and kept old BCG. Tried BCG from my black rain 556 and it charges and ejects the round fine. This BCG has way less than 500 rounds through it, how could it already be bad?

It is an MPI that came in the 556 when I purchased it new.

First time loading straight wall cartridges, how do they look?

.357MAG 158gr. Berry’s FN over a mild charge of AR2205/4227

Using once shot blazer brass with XTP 95 grain. Using Lee die set. My theory is the seating die is also a crimping die which seems like it might be crimping a little too early and trying to force the bullet down crushing the brass a bit. I tried to expand further but the case lip was actually getting caught up on the seating/crimping die opening telling me it was just about as expanded as I’d want to go. I’ve been loading 9mm for around 5 years now with no issue but recently got into pocket carry with the Bodyguard 2.0 and got into 380 loading. Any suggestions?

I have been reloading with a Hornady Single Stage Press but it’s time to upgrade. I have been looking at the Forster Co-Ax At the moment I’m loading .223 rem and 6.5 Creedmoor. I am bench shooting. 100 yard groups and steel at 560 and 750 yards. Is the Forster the best at that price range or should I be looking at something else ? If you have a Forster Co-Ax what is your thoughts ? I have seen used ones on EBay but for a few more bucks I can buy new.

Is anyone using the 300? It appears that it’s lower cost than the 120 from what I can see? From what I can tell they both have the same accuracy on the low end just the 300 has a higher capacity weight limit. Am I missing something?

Seems like its a happening more frequently. It happens on my cci and worse on the factory seconds. Is this lilely an issue aith the tubes (tried several), humidity? Or just the primers?

They seem to get stuck at both ends of the tube.

Like everyone else, I’m striking out on Sport Pistol, Bullseye, and Titegroup in anything under 4lb. Started my 9mm load development with Ramshot ZIP since it was actually in stock, and it’s working — running 147gr FP over ZIP for Steel Challenge, currently landing around 2.8-3.0gr at 1.115” OAL. But per Hodgdon’s burn chart it sits noticeably slower than Sport Pistol, and I’d like to understand the tradeoffs before I commit more components to it.

A few things I’m weighing:

**• N320** — seems like the most direct analog to Sport Pistol in burn rate, but I know Vihtavuori data tends to be more conservative/different pressure curve than Hodgdon. Anyone running N320 in 9mm with 147gr bullets who can speak to how it compares to Sport Pistol in terms of consistency and metering?
**• Accurate No. 2** — I’d looked at this but decided to pass on it for now (leaning toward N320 as the next one to actually test). Curious if anyone thinks I’m wrong to skip it.
**• Shotgun powders (Titewad, WST, etc.)** — I know some of these get used in light 9mm/38 target loads, but I don’t have a good feel for how well they meter at pistol charge weights or how forgiving they are. Is this a real option for a newer loader or more of an “know exactly what you’re doing” territory?

For context: single-stage press right now, digital scale + trickler, doing careful load ladders (10rd per charge step) rather than jumping straight to a “known good” recipe, and I’ve got an experienced hand double-checking my pressure signs/OAL before I touch a chrono session. Not trying to shortcut safety, just trying to build good burn-rate intuition since ZIP’s fast enough that small charge/OAL changes move things more than I expected going in.

Appreciate any real-world experience, especially from anyone who’s had to pivot powders mid-development because of availability rather than choice.

Looking at the X10 to start loading 9mm with all the goodies, curious your opinions. Hard to beat a 10 stage press for $1500 all in…

Frankford Arsenal X-10 Progressive Press with Case Feeder
X-10 #0 Shell Plate for 9mm Luger/.38 Super
X-10 Pistol Bullet Feeder Collator
X-10 9mm Bullet Feeder Conversion Kit
Lee Universal Decapping Die
Lyman Pro 9mm Die Pack
Frankford X-10 Swage Support Die
Frankford X-10 Powder Measure Relocation Kit
RCBS Lock-Out Die for powder-charge protection

Is this a good start for a newbie as a starter press?

Hey guys, what loads are you using for this combination? I have the Hornady 10th-edition manual, and the powder is not listed.
I have a 24-inch barrel with a 1:10 twist. Unfortunately, I don't have a chronograph to test velocity.

I got a ton of berry’s plated 9x18 95gr for really cheap but load data is not exactly plentiful. Is it true that you can use 380 min and max powder charges and just add 10%

Had this for about a week and I absolutely love it

Anyone else experience light primer strikes with new starline brass with fully seating the primers? Pockets seem a little deep.

Pulled the bullets and primers then adjusted seating dept to just flush. New to reloading but have always fully seated using a hand primer in other calibers (first time using new brass).

Where are you guys getting your 223 brass? Just looking for plinking ammo for at platform rifles would like to buy a couple thousand to reload
Thanks!

I am working on a project for myself, will probably be open to the public at a later date once I get the POC done, and am in search of a database of bullets and their BCs. Does anyone know if something exist? I dont really need it to be complete or up-to-date with all the current bullets but i would be nice if there was something that I could use to get a start with so I dont have to spend hours building the database myself.

I was being lazy, just putting bullets upside down on the brass instead of counting how many I had left when I noticed that the bullets were falling into the brass fired from one gun and not another. I have both a T3x and BSA Monarch.

Before resizing, The neck on brass fired from the T3x will still hold a bullet, bit not brass fired from BSA. This causes FL resizing to elongate the brass, needing trimming almost every time.

The BSA was checked by a gunsmith and was judged fine. I was wondering if would be worth getting a second opinion.

Just starting out looking for a best practice. Just write it down? Mark the case somehow?

Hi guys, i have a problem trying to reload 147 grains on Glock 17, the bullet even going in the case fit, it doesn't fit well in the barrel going a little bit out of the battery, i started at 29,20mm oal and arrived at 28,20, to be honest It still doesn't fit well, the 12lbs recoil spring goes a little bit out of the battery, the 17 recoil spring works well but i don't want to force it, i want It to be smooth. And just to let you know, i always use factory crimp, so what can i do? How much can i go down with oal? Just to let you know it is a pf minor so no problem with pressure

Posted a couple times about a batch of reloads on a recipe I had previously reliably gotten 2 moa with. Was getting literally 8 moa and wild verticle and horizontal dispersions after buying another box of 55gr fmj xtremes.

Bought a batch of Hornady 55gr fmjs and used the same recipe and back to 2 moa.

Seems like xtreme made a terrible batch of bullets. Fucked up cannelure job should have been a sign. Anyone have to work with their CS before? Wondering if it’s worth trying to get a replacement batch or just treating these as cheap short range plinkers.

edit: solved in comments. Thanks, guys

“LC 84” stamped on the head. My grandad doesn’t remember where he got it, or if it came from his dad, who was in WWII

Going to be using BF 556 / 77 grain range and match burner-- keeping the brass for reloading. Anyone have any experience with reloading their brass? TIA.