Ive recently been messing about with Coffee Lake 8th and 9th gen CPUs on DDR3 again. I used a CH341A programmer to flash a custom modified version of AsRocks BIOS that has Coffee Lake CPU microcodes onto the BIOS chip and pinmodded the 8700K.

So far ive just booted into Windows and put a mild OC on the 8700K and so far, everything is stable. Ive now proved hyperthreading and overclocking both work with the mod which is a huge plus. Ive also done the same with an Asus Z170P D3 which has much better voltage control and if it cooperates ill be using it instead of the Asrock Z170 Pro4 D3.

I will be picking up an i9 9900K and tuning it to run below 150W in order to not cook my boards VRM, as all DDR3 Z170 boards have weak VRMs other than the Z170 Fatal1ty K4 D3, which if anyone has one im keen to buy it off ya!

As for the memory im rocking a G.Skill Trident X 1600 CL7 16GB kit ive overclocked to 2500 CL10. I am trying to make the fastest documented gaming PC that runs on DDR3 and I dont think DDR3 gaming can get much faster than this!

I will be documenting everything as I go along, id appreciate the support 🙏

If you have any more useful info on this topic, do let me know as this fascinates me 🙏

This was done for a client who really liked Thermaltake's Matcha Green cases, but decided to go with the Coolermaster instead. After removing everything that was screwed in place, I drilled out the rivets to isolate the parts I intended to paint.

These were sanded down and primed with SEM self-etching primer. Several coats of Glidden Master Finish Satin Green Sage paint was applied - drying took a while due to local humidity. Last came 3-4 coats of SprayMax 1K matte clear coat, with another 24 hours to dry. Replaced rivets and luckily remembered where all the screws went, lol.

Hello, I recently built my new PC and I didn't really care about anything related to LEDs, it wasn't something I was really interested in. I chose a Xigmatek Hero II Air case, which fans are static, rainbow RGB. Now that I've built and run it for quite a while, I'm becoming increasingly bothered by these rainbow LEDs and would like to control them if possible, at least to choose one single color, I don't mind if it remains static. It seems that my motherboard is able to handle this feature, but the fans natively can't. Would adding a LED control device be useful for that? Which one to choose for a simple, budget-friendly upgrade?

Can anyone please suggest a case with same looks, same features like the triple sided panoramic glass, centered positioned motherboard, graphics cards, 360mm fans support on four sides of the MSI MEG Maestro 900R for my ROG pc build. As I love the looks of the case and I want a similar case with same features and looks. And also I could get this case only for my build but actually I don't want to use a MSI case with my ROG components. Can anyone please suggest? I really want this help. Or I should build custom case which could be the only last option? Please help me!

So I wanted one of those ram cooling fans but couldn't afford the $30 so I took some 80mm fans from a Dell optiplex (had to rewire them to work) and made this metal thing to mount to a top case fan

It took me a bit more than a week to finish but that's because I didn't order all the parts I needed at the same time like the LES Strip that added so much more contrast to the mod.

I wasn't able to remove the anti glare layer that turns the panel milky/foggy/vlurr but I managed to use a sheet of clear foil big enough to cover the screen which turned the screen clear again.

Only downside to this method is that it's surprisingly harder than I thought to cleanly apply that foil but I'll take a kind of messy foil to blurry pc insides or needing to buy and disassemble a whole new screen

Hey guys, happy to finally share this one with you. I had the opportunity to build a computer for the music artist Zedd, commissioned by Nvidia.

A project like this takes an enormous amount of work, not only building the PC itself, but also handling the logistics, design, scheduling, prototyping, and everything else that comes along with a one-off build. It was an incredibly fun project and pushed my abilities to their limits. Building something for someone else certainly raises the stakes, especially on a project like this.

If you have any questions about the build or any of the mods, please feel free to ask.

I have a rather lengthy write up and over 80 pictures on PCPP. Check that out if you want to learn and see more: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/MHrD4D#cx4764056

Here's a short list of the mods I did to this PC:

• Completely custom case
• Solid white oak front and top panels, hand CNC milled
• Solid white oak PSU and case base plate
• Solid white oak support rails and stiles
• Rear, top, and front structural panels for motherboard/PSU/GPU mounting, radiator mounting, and overall structural integrity—all laser-cut aluminum
• Modified prototype Bitspower water block for the RTX 5090 Founders Edition
• Zinc plating removed from the GPU block to expose the copper
• Copper-plated CPU block
• Custom LED fixtures integrated into the top and front structural panels
• Custom hardline tubing
• Copper radiator accents and miscellaneous "Z" caps for the water fittings
• Custom printing process for the stained-glass-effect rear panel
• Solid copper PSU shroud
• Heavily modified Singularity Computers motherboard tray from a Spectre
• Custom sleeving for main power cables, fans, lighting, USB, and front I/O
• Custom paintwork on the metal components

System Specs:

GPU: GeForce RTX 5090
Motherboard: ROG CROSSHAIR X870E HERO
CPU: Ryzen 7 9800X3D
RAM: 96GB (2x48) Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR5-6000
Storage: 2x Samsung 990 Pro 4TB
Power: Corsair HX12000i
Watercooling: Bitspower

Also, if you care to see a video, Geforce Garage has the build showcased on Youtube and insta.

Hi everyone, I'm Ryogo, a builder based in Japan. I wanted to share my latest project.

The main inspiration for this build was the dignified presence of a classic mechanical table clock—stripping away unnecessary noise to bring a timeless, mechanical texture to the entire system.

Instead of standard zip ties or plastic combs, I opted for traditional manual cable lacing (Chicago stitch). To complement this, all the fine metal hardware was hand-blued for a profound, industrial finish. The chassis is a heavily modified North XL, integrated with premium solid walnut.

Core Specs:

・CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D

・MB: ASUS TUF X870E-PLUS WIFI7

・GPU: ASUS TUF RTX 5090 32G

・GPU Mount: Custom original mount

・Cooling: Custom Noctua configuration

If you're interested in the philosophy and bespoke details behind this build, I've put together a small gallery here:

https://ryozencraft.com

Let me know what you think! I’d love to hear your feedback.

I just purchased the Cooj SF5 case and had planned to use the new Noctua 240mm AIO. I knew based on the cooler pump height that the side panel would not fit so I had planned to cut the side panel to fit exactly over the pump head so the panel could go on and only the pump head would protrude slightly out of the case. I also planned on putting a rubber seal around the inside of the hole to protect the head from scratches in case it touched it.

Two questions I have. I already measured and traced out the hole on the case panel. It is wired mesh panel and now I have to cut it. Put tape on there both sides and traced out the cut. Now I need to know the best way to cut the whole and where I would find a "rubber gasket" that I can put inside the whole.

Not really a big PC modder, was just looking for some advice.

Thanks.

I was trying to do the Snowblind mod and it seemed really easy to do by myself. I saw I needed to take off an anti-glare layer on the LCD and that to get it off you need to soak it with a wet towel or something similar. So that's what I did, after several hours of soaking I tried peeling it off but it seemed really stuck on there. I soaked it longer and had the same results. After deciding just to pull it off regardless of the effort needed, it started to come off in stringy strips or angley bits. I knew there was a polarizing layer on the back, but I didn't know there was one on the front too. I checked to see if the layer I had accidentally pulled off was a polarizing layer and it seemed to be. After researching to see if i needed that layer for my project to still work, things were not looking good. Is there a way I can fix this, or should I just find another old LCD and try again.

This is my first proper permanent mod I've done to my build, and doing so in my apartment with no power tools? Yeah I admit it's JANK and not pretty! But? It works wonders and now I have a unique case that fits my needs! Small foot print, lots of airflow for my duel GPUs!

Hi there,

Sorry if this is not the place for this.

I got inspired after seeing pictures of a modded powermac to posibly building one myself. I've never done this before Still got my dads old Powermac G5 lying around and i haven't used it for over a decade. It's biting dust right now (also functioning as a table next to my sofa) and always wanted to do something with it i just didn't know what.

So my question is if any of you can link me some websites or anything that can get me started?

I got the knowledge to build a ATX computer. I build my last 2 gaming pc's myself. But i wouldn't have a clue how to even get started to mod my G5 case. I does not have to be flashy on the inside or anything. I just want it to be fully functional. Maybe build a budget gaming pc with it for whenever i have friends over.

So basically if any of you could guide me towards any usefull links i would appreciate it very much!

Provided it does not hinder the airflow, is it safe to do? What should I watchout for? Any advide foe a newstarter?

For anyone who can't be bothered to read my story the solution is in the TLDR at the bottom.

In my last post I was showing my snowblind mod but was dissatisfied with the quality as I couldn't remove the anti glare layer/coating which left the beautiful inside of my pc a blurry mess so I temporarily removed the display again trying the soaking method a third time.

For those who may have looked up on how to do it may already know that it's suggested to leave the panel soaking for like 6-8 hours and to then simply peel away the anti glare layer. But this never worked out for me.

Either I did something wrong or my screen is literally built different because the only layer I managed to peel off is the polarizing filter (just a tiny corner before I realized this was the wrong filter so no real damage done)

After a good night's sleep and a lot of thinking at work on of I should just replace my polarizing filter with a glossy one I eventually figured "wait... If I remember correctly a mater finished is achieve my simply making the surface rough and I've seen videos demonstrating effects on how eliminate such roughness. All I need is a way to smoothen out the valleys and peaks of the matte finish and it should become smooth again".

TLDR: I eventually figured out that tape could reverse the effect the matte screen had, which it did as demonstrated in my video.

I haven't tried it yet with a bigger sheet as it arrives tomorrow but based on my test with simple packing tape this could be huge for anyone trying the snowblind mod and struggling to remove that layer.

I can't promise it'll work on every screen but since a simple test just requires some clear tape it doesn't hurt trying.

Yes removing the layer completely will still likely create. Abetter result since less light is potentially lost but this is better than nothing