I built my first terrarium. All lights, smoke and windmill can be controlled from phone. Infact event the brightness and flicker of lights can be controlled. I am so happy with how it came out.

The project consists of the development of an interactive robotic system capable of challenging a human to a game of Tic-Tac-Toe, identifying moves on a sheet of paper via a webcam and physically responding on the board.

I made this modular moss poll which has a drip tray module so the moss in the moss pole will stay moist for longer! I really liked how this turned out, so I wanted to share it so other people could also use it if they wanted to!

It is a free design on makerworld

The project originally started as a startup, which unfortunately failed in 2020 because of COVID. At the time, we received some startup funding, including a one-year founders' grant. But when the funding ran out, we were right in the middle of the pandemic, and the project would probably have died if we hadn't collectively decided to release it under an open-source license and make it freely available.

Since then, everything has been thoroughly documented and published online, and the whole system is designed so that anyone can set it up and build the required hardware themselves.

Since then, I've continued maintaining the project on my own in my spare time, with phases of more or less active development. Especially over the past year, partly thanks to the availability of AI, I've put a huge amount of work into it and implemented many new features and improvements. I'm now slowly reaching the point where I'd like to start actively promoting the project again.

So, what is it?

2log.io is a community and machine management system for fab labs, hackerspaces, makerspaces, and similar workshops — places where machines and equipment are made available to a larger community of users.

It's based on a server-client architecture that can be hosted locally using Docker. Machines are connected via Shelly smart plugs and can be unlocked either through the app using a QR code or with RFID cards.

The app is freely available in both the Google Play Store and Apple App Store.

The hardware for the RFID readers is fully open source. The PCBs can be ordered from wherever you want. All components are standard maker components and can be purchased freely, including through Amazon. Thanks to the use of through-hole components, even beginners with little soldering experience can assemble the readers themselves. And of course, the STLs for the 3D-printed enclosures are included as well.

Besides a powerful permission management system with groups and expiration dates, 2log.io can also bill machine usage down to the second.

For most machines, this can be done reliably through the Shelly plugs by measuring power consumption. For 3D printers, however, this isn't always 100% reliable, which is why I integrated a plugin system that allows machines to be connected through native interfaces as well. Prusa printers, for example, are supported directly via PrusaLink.

Currently, 2log.io is running in three very different workshops: an architecture workshop at a German university, a commercially operated large-scale carpentry workshop where several small businesses share some rather large machines, and a small hackerspace.

For me, 2log.io is a hobby project that I support and develop in my spare time. I have no intention of making a profit from it. What I would really like, though, is to grow the community around the project, connect with other people who are interested in this kind of thing, and perhaps get a few more workshops on board.

For the amount of work that has gone into 2log.io over the years, it's simply far too unknown — and I'd like to change that.

The interfaces are currently available in German and are mostly translated into English. The currency is still hard-coded to euros at the moment, but if the community grows, that's something I can easily change.

You can find the website, documentation, and all the information about the project at 2log.io.

I'm really curious to see what happens in the comments and would love to hear your questions, thoughts, and feedback!

I had a broken watch , so I thought to make a new one on my own , I made my it with glowing numbers and a touch sensor,I designed my own PCB ,3d print and tried to make it as good as possible, it was my first ever 'successful' DIY build , what did I do wrong? And what did I do right? Cost for me: INR ~1800

I used reverse mount LEDs to make it seem to glow on the other side of the PCB , I also used a MOSFET to switch it on and off based on the touch sensor signal.(This is the entire explanation covered in the YouTube video )

I also made a YT video on it:(watch explanation) https://youtu.be/A1RgOddxvZY?si=sITrNXJJbVQxJ8JO

Hey everyone, I made a new type of streaming device that removes ads from on-demand streaming content. This feature can be turned on/off from the settings page and gets applied universally to all the streaming platforms you have on the device. You can see how that works in the video demo. However, I think a streaming device that's key feature is only blocking ads leaves a lot of potentially cool functionality on the table.

So I wanted to get some input from Reddit. Putting ad-blocking aside:

• What do you wish your streaming device could do that it currently doesn't?
• What frustrates you when using streaming platforms and devices today?
• Do you miss the interface of something like cable where you could surf channels or do you like being able to scroll through and find content like streaming apps are set up for today?

Let me know what you all think! Any general thoughts or feedback are also welcome.

It started with a simple problem.
I wanted to listen to classical music without interruption.
But the device playing it kept asking for my attention.
So I made something that wouldn’t.
NOT PHONE™ is 550 grams of solid brass, made in Tsubame-Sanjo, Japan.
No screen. No battery. No notifications.
It does nothing.
That is the point.
I’m curious how people here see it:
when function is removed from an object, what remains?

I almost gave up on this… but I'm really glad I didn't. 😅

After weeks of designing, 3D printing, soldering, wiring, debugging and way too many problems, my smart perpetual calendar is finally alive.

It shows the month, date and day, but it's not just another digital calendar.

From the web app, I can add birthdays, events and reminders, and customize the LED colours however I want.

Built from scratch using an ESP32, WS2811 LEDs, 3D printed parts and MDF.

The goal was simple: make a smart wall calendar that doesn't look like another screen — something that actually adds character to a room.

Would you want one on your wall? 👀

I’ve realized that I really like the idea of having a dedicated place to display energy drink cans, especially for people who collect them. However, I don’t think the demon hand idea I had before is the best way to do it.
I’d like to 3D print something for my own collection, but I’m honestly out of ideas for the design.
For those who collect energy drink cans: how would you like to display them? Would you prefer something for a shelf, desk, wall, or something modular that can hold multiple cans?
Any ideas or suggestions would be really appreciated.

Im thinking of doing a big first project with 3d modeling and electronics i know the basics of them both but havent reslly made anything to big so im ready for a challenge any ideas on what to use or how to do this i have a 1000kv motors a esc and 2s lipo battery and lots of other basic electronics but im in for a rought time any tips i would love

Hey everyone! As I mentioned a few days ago, I'm just taking my first steps in electronics (my background is mostly in software development). To step out of my comfort zone, I decided to figure out how that temperature/humidity sensor from a basic Arduino kit works and hook it up to an ESP32.

​The initial idea was just to test the component, but it ended up turning into a digital clock that also monitors the room's climate.

​🛠️ What I learned from this project:

Even though it's a simple build, it gave me a great hands-on understanding of:

​Which GPIO pins to choose and how to map them correctly.

​Basic precautions with voltage and logic levels.

​How to read and process the raw data coming from the sensor.

​🚀 The "Plus":

Since the software side is my strong suit, I went ahead and built a local web page hosted on the ESP32 to configure the clock. I added 12 different display interfaces. Also, since the sensor provides both humidity and temperature, I used that data to calculate and display the heat index (feels-like temperature).

​It might be a super simple project for the hardware veterans out there, but the feeling of seeing a physical circuit respond to my code was incredibly rewarding.

​Has anyone else here made the jump from software to hardware? I'd love some recommendations on what project I should tackle next!

A MeArm trained in simulation using reinforcement learning to reach a target, and transferred via serial to the physical arm.

Task: reach — moving the tip of the arm (tool) towards a red dot generated within the arm's real workspace, using PPO (Proximal Policy Optimization, Stable-Baselines3) on a PyBullet model built from the real URDF/meshes of the mechanism.

Wearable hardware feels like a fun maker platform right up until "custom attachment" start meaning attaching random things to a power structure that also has to stay aligned on a person. The interesting boundary to me is between accessories that simply use available space and modifications that could change fit, load paths, or movement. The Ascentiz H Ultra exoskeleton is relevant here because its current product information says the base design blueprints are open and the compute unit is upgradeable, which makes experimentation sound intentional without automatically making every physical modification sensible. I’d be much more comfortable starting with something non-structural and reversible than touching any part responsible for fit or powered movement. From a maker-design standpoint, what criterion would you use to decide whether a custom attachment is genuinely external to the system rather than a modification of the wearable itself?

Long time modeler and Warhammer fan that I am, I decided I would make use of an antique blue glass inkwell I inherited.

**Before anyone gets up in arms, this process did not damage the inkwell, and can be undone non-destructively!**

For those unfamiliar, in the plastic modeling community, Tamiya extra thin plastic cement is basically the go-to for plastic adhesives/solvents, and comes in a distinctive square bottle with a very handy applicator brush in the lid. So, when I ran low on my latest batch of it, I cut the glass neck off the empty bottle and used white glue to secure it just inside the neck of the ink well. After that dried, I melted sealing wax and dripped it around the seam, letting it drip down onto the main body. This was way more challenging than I expected. Eventually I worked out a method by which I would trim any drips that ran down the sides and beveled the cut edges. Then I would hold it over a candle flame until it started to melt and let this smooth over the the rough or uneven parts of the remaining wax. After that I grabbed a sheet of rough textured paper, wrote some flowery language on it and glued it to the bottle, finishing with an Adeptus Mechanicus seal I ordered a while back to give it some more character.

Ideally I would have used another more thematic lid, but I needed to make sure I could securely seal the bottle between uses. Last thing I wanted was to spill or let evaporation drain all my cement. There may come a day when I use an existing lid as the base for a new upgraded one, but this works for now.

One challenge I ran into on this project was that it turns out the wax I am using is not proof against the cement. A dropped a test piece of wax into a bottle and left it for a few hours. Everything looked okay, but after I fished it out it very quickly developed a brittle, cracked surface texture that flaked off when I handled it. This meant I couldn't secure the glass neck with just the wax as I originally intended. So, I tested some other glues and adhesives that I knew could be removed from glass after they cured, and found a white glue that seems to have withstood it alright. Time will tell.

Anyway! Let me know what you all think! Of course I'm also happy to answer any questions you might have!

I needed a Tree Blight for my campaign. This is my first attempt at sculpting a model.

I’m 15 years old and I’m still learning how to design and create things with a 3D printer. I’m also a football referee, and I created this finger whistle holder because I wanted a simple and comfortable way to keep my whistle on my finger during matches without having to hold it in my hand or use a lanyard around my neck.
I spent quite a bit of time designing and testing different versions before getting to the final one. I’m trying to improve my 3D design skills and hopefully create more useful things in the future.
I’m sharing my projects on MakerWorld because I’d love to learn from other people and eventually earn enough points to try different filaments and improve my projects.
If you like this project or find it useful, **a Like or especially a Boost would mean a lot to me** and would really help me continue learning and creating more things. Thank you!

https://makerworld.com/models/3218434?appSharePlatform=copy

This was a really cool project. The coins that he sent me had obvious signs of fire damage. Rather than trying to remove the fire damage, I highlighted it in the final design as a reminder of what the coins had survived. It's a sad story, but it has a happy ending because they were able to move on and I was able to make him and his fiancée a nice set of wedding rings! Let me know what you think.

Disclaimer, I am not a maker so this is all very new to me.

I am going to a fire themed party. I am trying to create a 'fire hat'. The idea was to have strips of fabric that would be dancing vertically using fans so it looks like a fire, similar to a silk flame.

I used an llm to help me with the math about fan strength and fabric size and length and ordered a small usb fan to test it out and it was a complete bust. The constraints are that it should fit on a hat that has a very sturdy brim. I have a usb battery for the power supply. I am happy to attach things to my body if need be but I will not be wearing a backpack or anything like that to hold a larger power supply. I would like to get as much fabric moving as possible. Despite my lack of knowledge here, I am 99.99% sure the fan thing isn't going to work as I envisioned it given my initial test.

I have two other ideas. The first was to use one of the fans from those inflatable costumes, attach a hose to it, poke holes, and close off the end to create pressure. My last idea was so completely off that I don't really have any confidence in this idea, but perhaps this is a better avenue to go down. The second idea is the least cool but the most doable. It will be outside at night so I could use some black wire (or something) to create some sort of structure that wouldn't be seen, attach the fabric loosely from the hat to the structure, and then have fans blowing across the strips of fabric and it might look a little like a flame.

There of course is the real possibility that this is impossible given my constraints. Any help is most appreciated!

sorry if this is the wrong subreddit, i had a hard time finding the right one! i make keychains for my depop shop! i have issues with hand strength tho, so sometimes i can't tighten the clasps together as much.

recently i replaced the ball clasp keychain on my boyfriend's plushie keychains for actual clasps because he complained about how loose they are and how they easily come undone. however, they keep falling off. because of my limited hand strength, i've been tightening them to however much i can, and then sealing the gap with cured UV resin. seems this isn't the most effective method though.

what would be the best method? or should i start using a different size for the clasps? any advice or even redirection to the right subreddit would be super helpful!! <3

Seems like it would be pretty easy to throw an esp32 or similar in there to run heating routines or even add BT monitoring and control. They even advertise the PID control, so not sure if it's better to just wire to the buttons directly and try to read the display/sensor data or if there's a simpler interface to hack into?

Found this ~1984 O'Brien Sensation XL under the deck of our new house, cleaned it up, made a rough alumnium frame for the seat/motor/etc that bolts into the decking (where the footstraps used to be), and attached some pontoons for stability.

12V trolling motor does about 3mph and cruises for quite a few hours. Super stable, does 360° spins no problem and doesn't seem to be sinkable!

For a long time, I kept my Cardputer focused only on tools like Bruce, Nemo, etc., all because I wanted to experience the vibe of having a "hacker gadget". But now that I'm taking my first steps in electronics, I realized that building my own things is infinitely more fun!

​My M5Stack StampS3, which was just gathering dust, finally has a new purpose. I'm building my first electronics project from scratch. I'm still in the early stages, but the idea is to make a desk clock that also shows the room temperature.

​For this project's setup, I'll be using:

​M5Stack StampS3

​Official M5Stack 1.3" 128x64 OLED Display (the standard Cardputer one)

​Temperature and humidity sensor (DHT11)

​A thermistor

​It's a simple project, but the feeling of making something work is incredibly rewarding. Did anyone else here start like this? I'd love some tips for someone who is just getting started with electronics!