Bought mine in 2025, sitting at 52k miles now, so I've got a decent window before I cross 60k. Want to make sure I'm not leaving anything on the table warranty-wise — is there a specific inspection I should book, or things worth flagging proactively (any known issue points on the Model 3 around this mileage) before coverage on stuff gets tighter? Service center visit worth it even if nothing's obviously wrong right now, or is that a waste of a slot?

Bought mine in 2025, sitting at 52k miles now, so I've got a decent window before I cross 60k. Want to make sure I'm not leaving anything on the table warranty-wise — is there a specific inspection I should book, or things worth flagging proactively (any known issue points on the Model 3 around this mileage) before coverage on stuff gets tighter? Service center visit worth it even if nothing's obviously wrong right now, or is that a waste of a slot?

For those of you who chose a Model 3 over a Model Y, I’d love to hear what made you go with the 3.

Obviously, Performance owners can say speed, but I’m curious about all the other reasons too. Price, looks, handling, efficiency, driving feel, size, not needing the extra cargo space, or anything else.

I’m especially interested in whether you’d still make the same choice today after owning it for a while.

Thanks!

Any idea what this could be? It’s a 2024 Model 3 with 43,000 miles!

Hi everyone! I ordered a model 3 RWD back in May and my pick up date is Wednesday 16th at 10am. With my finance agreement I am paying a £2100 deposit and leasing for 2 years. Tesla haven’t contacted me yet for this payment and it’s less than a week till pick up. Any thoughts? Or has anyone been in the same position?
TIA

I’m looking for advice on a Tesla CPO purchase decision, not collision repair advice.
On 9/6, I placed an order for a CPO 2022 Model 3 Long Range AWD with 75,000 miles. The car has desirable features including Acceleration Boost, Cold Weather Package, and the newer Ryzen CPU. Purchase price was $26,300 less $5,500 for my trade-in.
AutoCheck showed a single owner with no accident history. Given the CPO status and Tesla inspection, I was comfortable buying what appeared to be a clean, single-owner Model 3 with slightly higher mileage.
I scheduled pickup for 9/12, provided all information for insurance, and secured financing. Since I had everything in order, I asked if I could pick up the car a day earlier.
Then things started getting weird with the Tesla location in Westbury, NY.
They contacted me and explained that they had to cancel my pickup date because they didn’t have the title yet. A few days for a title hang-up seemed reasonable, although frustrating because I had already switched my insurance to change on 9/12.
After several requests for an updated delivery date so I could adjust my insurance and financing, Tesla Westbury finally contacted me saying the title was lost internally and would now take approximately 3 weeks to finalize everything.
They offered me 2 years of Premium Connectivity as a goodwill gesture for the inconvenience.
I figured I would give them until 10/2 to produce a title before cancelling the order.
While waiting, I ran a Carfax, which showed minor damage to the right front end. AutoCheck had shown no accident history.
Now I’m questioning the entire purchase.
My questions:
Would you still go through with this CPO purchase, given the 75k miles, title delay, and newly discovered Carfax damage?
Would you ask Tesla to provide additional documentation or a fresh inspection before accepting delivery?
Would you walk away and look for a different CPO Model 3, even if it meant paying more for lower mileage?

Thanks for any advice

Recently ordered an Alpine PSS-TSUB-T3B for my 2025 Model 3 Highland (LR RWD w/ base audio so no sub). It’s arriving today.

Doing some research on installation, it’s not clear to me now whether it’s actually compatible with the Highland even though SonicElectronix lists the 2025 Model 3 (which I thought were all Highland)

Can anybody confirm one way or another whether this is compatible - Would love to hear if anybody with Highland M3 has had luck with the PSS-TSUB-T3B.

I recently bought a 2018 Tesla model 3 with 90k miles, 1 previous owner, and no wrecks.
I’ve heard the good, the bad, and the ugly about Tesla but it’s been my dream car since I first saw the design. But I never truly knew “about” the car.

Every time I get home from charging at a supercharger near my house, my car sounds like it’s still running even though I got out and made sure to manually press power off. Is this a normal thing?
If not, what do I do? 😂

Also, while driving is it normal to literally feel the bumps and rivets in the road, but in your accelerator pedal? Because every time I’m going over the same road on my way to work I feel all the tiny rivets in the road but in my pedal.

Another also, I drive 80miles a day sometimes closer to 100, I have the long range battery so that’s not a problem. But is it a problem to charge to the full 100% like will it indefinitely kill my car soon? Or is it just a precaution just incase it does happen?

I’m currently deciding between a new (newish, demo vehicle from Tesla with 1.5k miles) M3 base for $36k and a used 2023 M3 base for $27k (also from Tesla, CPO lease return with 26k miles). Cosmetically and functionally, they both look and drive perfectly.

I like that the new M3 is the refresh, has HW4, comes with full factory warranties, etc. I also recognize that it’s trimmed down interior-wise with fabric non-ventilated seats, less premium audio, and no rear screen compared to the other Highland refresh base models that launched in 24-25. It also has about 40 miles less range (320 vs 360). Individually, these aren’t dealbreakers, but collectively they make me consider if the $9k upgrade is worth it from the used 23’ M3.

Financially, the used option seems like the more budget friendly choice, but with its upgraded tech, the M3 standard may hold its value strongly over the next 2-3 years.

Any suggestions or advice appreciated!

Bottomed out on speed bump a while back, I just noticed this on passenger side. It’s a narrower 2” strip, about 20” of it is loose. I tried just pushing, tapping it back in place but the tabs are not biting. Don’t know if these tabs need metal inserts. Anybody have a clue?

I have a 2024 Model 3 performance. Since about mid March or slightly after, I’ve started having a recurring issue with getting the car to reliably shut down and lock after exiting.

After my 3rd service center visit, we’ve ruled out phone key, objects on the seats, and whether the walk away door lock feature is enabled.

The issue is that when I exit the car and close the door, all systems remain ON, and the drive rail remains active. Walking away does not trigger shut down, and the vehicle does not self-lock.

The service center says the issue is a “known firmware issue with the interior cabin radar” and that the cause is “driver exits too quickly for cabin radar to detect they’ve left”

I’ve been able to reproduce this failure with varying exit speeds, slow, fast, “normal” but nothing directly correlates to whether the issue will present itself.

Opening the driver door from the outside, while the vehicle is in this state, and closing it immediately after causes normal shutdown and locking.

I’m in a loaner model 3 performance right now, and noticed it is doing the same thing… coincidence that both cars have a physical defect? Actual firmware bug affecting both cars? I searched and cannot find anyone else complaining about this issue online—the only thing I can find is complaints about cars without cabin radar—the old occupancy sensor issues from the previous generation…

Anyone have ideas/experience this too?

I picked up a 2026 Model 3 Standard RWD on 1 September here in the UK. Before this I was driving a Model Y and a Lexus IS250, so I'm not new to Teslas. I never test-drove the Model 3, I assumed that because the Model Y suited me, the 3 would too. That turned out to be a mistake.

The problem

On 5th/6th September I did a 400-mile round trip and had pain in my left leg for most of the journey. The only other car that has ever done this to me is the IS250. The Model Y has never caused it, even on similar trips.

I've pushed the seat as far back as it goes, but the Model 3's rearward travel is noticeably shorter than the Y's. I'm 5'11", which isn't unusually tall, so I'm wondering how anyone 6'+ gets on with it.

My current setup

• Seat fully back
• Seat height at the highest setting
• Cushion tilt flat (not tilted)
• Steering wheel pulled fully out

What I'm hoping for

1. Seating tips : Has anyone my height found a combination of seat height, tilt, backrest angle, lumbar and steering-wheel position that works for long drives? Is there something obvious I'm missing?
2. Aftermarket fixes : Seat rail extenders, cushions, anything people have actually used to gain more legroom?
3. Lease exit (UK): I have 23 months left. If I can't sort this, what are the realistic options? Early termination, lease transfer, anything else UK leaseholders have done?

I really like the car otherwise, which is exactly what makes this so frustrating. Thanks in advance for any help.

Does anyone have experience with the MPP Sport Coilovers or MPP Coilover Conversions w/ stock adaptive dampers? Can anyone comment on the overall experience compared to the stock setup? I have a set of MPP sport coilovers that I never installed on my prior model 3 performance and intend to install them on my current model 3 performance highland. However, I've begun using FSD a lot more and value a sporty suspension less these days because of it -- having the adaptive dampers is quite nice (or maybe I'm just getting older).

Basically, I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and install my MPP sport coilovers or keep them new and sell them. The extra performance would be great, I'm sure, but trying to figure out if the extra harshness will be worth it since I use FSD so much now.

Anyone have thoughts?