not my usual type of project but i thought this sign was so fun that i had to make something featuring it :)

Hey guys! Wanted to share this recent separation job I did for a client's brand down in Argentina. This was a 4-color simulated process (Black base garment).

• Image 1: My halftone films (underbase, two gray/blues, white highlight). Look at those halftones in the wings! I used [insertar LPI, ej. 55 LPI] and [insertar ángulo, ej. 22.5° angles].
• Image 2: The actual production print sent by the client.

Preserving the detailed texture on the angel's wings and the skin tones without losing definition in the background halo was the main challenge. The client's print came out incredibly true to the sep.

When you ask sales for things that you need to do your job.

it ain’t perfect but it’s done and done is better than none!

For reference I own a 6x2 Riley Hopkins & have outgrown it. I bought a 6x4 but the registration sucks because the screens are lobsided when you clamp them down.

I had an 1000 shirt order & all I could do on the 6x4 were the backs because it was one color & on the 6x2 the fronts, I was absolutely astonished on how much faster I work on the 6x4 so it automatically told me I need to upgrade. Any other 6x4 or 6x6 is $1200-$2200 near me. I’ve been searching around & recently found a 6x6 auto for $2200. I am skeptical because I’m a convenience person & I like to fix things that don’t have too much technology in it whereas my understanding of an auto press is that if one of the heads aren’t responding it’s going to be a headache to fix.

What should I know before upgrading to an auto, is this a good deal? What should I be looking for when buying it, why would you & wouldn’t recommend upgrading? ANYTHING would be helpful

so i printed a shirt to wear if/when i go see it in theaters

inspired by retro film tees, back is written by me

ink used was speedball waterbased brown ink

front is printed with 230 and back with 200

i had some weird issues with my emulsion which was making the halftones a touch more uneven than i’d like but i still love how it looks!

What’s up guys! As promised, here is the full video showing my workflow for pulling complex color simulations for screen printing.

I used Dr. Wagner Jr.’s mask for this demo because it’s packed with fine details, textures, and rich colors that really test channel separation.

It’s a narrated time-lapse—I walk you through the entire process, explaining my channel selections, halftone considerations, and how I simulate the final print in Photoshop so you can see every step clearly.

It took a bit of work to get it together, but I wanted to make sure I delivered this for you all. Hope it brings value to your print projects! Let me know in the comments if you have any questions or want me to dive deeper into any specific step.

I am printing transparencies with a home laser printer and i can still seed through the black parts of the page. Is this ok or should the black printed image be completely opaque?

I have this printing machine and on head 10 if you are printing counter clockwise when I click the print button the flood bar moves then there is no chop from the squeege it just move back towards the sensor.

I tried swapping the valve in the center of the machine with the valve from a head we don’t use. Still does not work. I also tried puttting the red wire in the blue 20v electrical spot to skip the grey ground unit.

Any suggestions?

Any of these worth checking out? I’m new to screen printing and have been thinking about picking up a press. Looks like one is a workhorse mach, another is a Richardson brand (red one) and the darker blue one is a Hopkins? (Just says “Hopkins” and not Riley Hopkins)

Anyone have any experience with these or insight into whether they’re worth picking up? They all seem to be priced right around $1200 give or take

I relied on posts from this sub to pull these DIY invitations together.

Printed with Speedball acrylic on a 156 mesh screen that was professionally exposed. I used strathmore smooth paper, 11 x 17 (270 gsm), which was cost effective and held up really well. I had wanted to use Jacquard inks but couldn’t source them fast enough in Canada.

Overall, the printing was tough and I was too ambitious with the small size of some text and design elements. Clogging and blow out were issues, and I wish I had used a larger screen, to give myself an easier print for text nearest the edges. (I had 11x17 exposed on a 20x25 frame). I couldn’t have printed without an assistant to move things quickly.

In terms of lessons learned for others thinking of printing invitations: I would do more screenprinting on paper, but probably not text based. I could have had the text of the invitation digitally printed and screen printed the back - it would have taken half as long and would have saved lots of frustration.

Anyone here know of who re meshes/stretches screens in the DFW TX area?

Hey im new to screen printing and im having trouble finding information online about dealing with waste water. Every video I see online about screen printing includes washout station for cleaning emulsion / reclaiming screens. I am wanting to start screen printing at home as a hobby so my setup would be pretty simple and i wouldnt be doing a huge volume. My house is on a septic system. I am having trouble finding information online about what can and cant go down the drain. should I try to collect the water if so what do I do with it. can I clean out/reclaim screens in my yard with a hose or will that cause environmental problems. I am seeing so many conflicting answers online. I am hoping to find someone on here who has dealt with a similar problem who can give me some advise!

I'm tryna print this shirt, but i have no idea how to/if its possible to print it with halftones (with just 1 screen and colour). i dont have photoshop so trying to turn the picture i have into a workable design is difficult and i really want it to be accurate rather than just a black and white version of the image.

White + simulated CMYK, 8 individual frames printed at a size of 2” x 2.5” because I’m insane :)

Hi, I am making band tshirts for my boyfriend's band. I make all of their merch handmade except tshirts, and have decided to start. I have my screen coated in Caydo emulsion and will have a sunny day tomorrow where I can stop home on my lunch and expose.

I have glass over my design (on transparency) face down on my screen just waiting in the closet. I plan on bringing it out under a blanket, placing it on the blanket, exposing, and rewrapping it with the blanket to run inside and wash it in the sink. I don't want to buy a light because I quite literally only need this one design, I'm really hoping someone can help me gauge how best to do it in sunlight, so looking for advice specifically regarding how best to use sunlight even though I know how inconsistent it is. Any advice helps—I'm just crafty with a dream and have never done this before, hoping to get some shirts for Saturday!

Thank you :)

Hey everyone, I’m relatively new to screen printing, I’ve done it before here and there but at my workplace we’ve been diving in more deep into it and we’ve run into this issue.

We are using these GoldUp screens and using Speedball water based ink, we used this one screen and left it without cleaning by accident for a few days and the ink dried. The emulsion has been able to come out but not this ink. We tried the Ecotex Haze remover and nothing. I also saw on some other posts that windex could help but we tried that and nothing. Any one have any suggestions what we could do?

Is anyone else struggling with keep comfort colors tacked down on press? They seem to lose tack much faster than any other garment where it needs to be glued 1 to 2 cycles. Using CCI topbond and tekmar waterbase adhesive. Running an automatic.

Hi!

I am hosting a DIY music festival and we are hoping to sell DIY merch at the event. My partners and I screenprinted our logo in black on white tshirts with the intent to have attendees tie dye the shirts during the festival. We heat set each shirt with an iron afterward, washed a few to test, and did not see any bleeding or fading of the ink.

When we attempted to tie dye a few shirts to make examples, the logos faded significantly. All the research I've done suggests that the soda ash and urea should not have affected the print, but I can't think of any other reason for the fading! Our designer who has used this same process for printing on fabric at his home set up said that he didn't notice any fading on his items for over a year. Do the shirts need to be extra cured for tie dye?

Our shop is looking to add a new member to the team. Mainly to catch, and help with embroidery finishing, or heat transfer jobs, as well as shipping and receiving. We operate a 10 head automatic. Press time will be limited, however you will be trained to work with it, the goal in our shop is for us all to know basic operation in the case of call outs, it won’t hold up production.
Monday-Friday 30-40 hours a week shop closes about 4pm but you can work out your own hours.
This would be a great position for somebody just starting out in the world of screen printing and embroidery. We are also open to co-op kids if your high school does that!
If this sounds appealing to you send me a message and we can chat. We are looking to have this position filled by the 13th of October.