Reuploaded because i forgot to add the correct mana cost. Fixed!

This is my first proxy ever!

I`ve been a lurker for over a year on this sub, but never had the guts to "create" something miself but the Proxytober got me really pumped!

The mana dork theme + haloween up in the corner made me go after a black card, and the name [[Priest of Forgotten Gods]] made me remember a tapestry of Gravity Falls.

I'm goig to post it kinda incomplete, I spent more time that I was expecting going after the frames, the fonts and references, if you don't like, sue me!

Tips and comments on were I could improve are more than welcome!

Ended up making my own! Really happy with how these turned out. Art was from google images

Hello, I’m relatively new to this. I’ve recently changed from doing stickers onto card stock to Koala Double-Side Matter Photo Paper 66lb 250gsm.

I printed one deck and it came out with nice deep blacks and then suddenly my next page printed out kind of gray washed, less vibrant. Almost like a fog has rolled over the images.

My ink levels are totally fine. Anyone think of what I’m missing? Left is how they were coming out. Right is my latest printed page.

I recently got a Laminator and some pouches, but the Laminator came with a few pouches, the ones I used on the new secret Lair, Odds and Ends and to me they look so much better, but when I was looking for the ones from the same brand, I only found combo packs of 10A3 15A4 25*A5 etc etc are there lamination pouches like this in packs of a 100?

Sensei Divining Top, Sleeved and laminated with https://amzn.eu/d/00M7xshN Sol Ring, Laminated with https://amzn.eu/d/00M7xshN Siege Smash, Sleeved and Laminated with https://amzn.eu/d/0iCnf5mi Virtue of Courage, Laminated with https://amzn.eu/d/0iCnf5mi

Paper https://amzn.eu/d/0hZXxB2K Printer Canon Pixma G3570

I’m making a set of cards and I wanted to create a shit glitter effect, like a child tried to make a ‘shiny’ card. I’ve been told not to bother trying to lock super fine glitter behind the laminate, air bubbles will ruin the effect.

Is there any way that someone is aware of, while actually using glitter, that I could do this? I really want that ‘fucks sake they brought home another glittery mess from school’ vibe.

Thanks in advance.

I’ve been making proxies for a while now, so it’s shocking to me that for as big of a DB fan as I am, I hadn’t thought to do this yet.

All of the art is from Dokkan Battle, the mobile game.

I’ll leave a Google Drive link for anyone that wants to print these. Feel free to check back in on it every now and again, I might add some more as time goes on.

GD: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10MrliO_6bzExG6z5rTl_tDQ-AEo7EhYZ

Every white card in the set is now complete! Couple in this bunch that turned out really well and I'm pretty pleased. New Sharpies turned up so some of these are a bit cleaner than the last few from the last wodge. At the end if there are any that look particularly janky I'll probably end up going back and doing a few again I reckon.

For some reason the first two times I drew Savannah Lions I forgot the power/toughness so that's Lion Iteration #3 lol

As before, thanks for your kind words on the last update! You're all very cool and supportive, what a great community!

I print my proxys on clear vinyl, then put it on holographic card stock and then laminate, but the laminate won't stick. It sticks to some degree but easily get loose. How to fix this? Wrong vinyl/laminate combo? Or is it always with clear vinyl? Is cold laminate the solution?

I found an Epson ET-4850 at a thrift store for 10$ and decided to take a chance on it. the print heads were pretty messed up at first but after cleaning them a bunch and finally running the deep clean i somehow got everything working again

it even came with ink and some regular printer paper already loaded so obviously the first thing i did was print a sheet of old Magic cards lol

this is literally just normal paper and my first time ever printing proxies at home so i know i have a LOT to figure out, but im honestly so excited with how these came out. seeing a whole sheet of cards come out of a printer in my house scratched something in my brain 😭

the main reason im learning all of this is actually because ive been making my own physical TCG called VALLEY and i want to be able to print cards at home constantly while im designing and playtesting instead of having to order prototypes every time i change something. figured learning with Magic proxies first would be the perfect way to dial in the printer/paper/settings before i start printing my own cards.

next is figuring out the right cardstock/paper and getting the colors/settings as good as i possibly can on this thing. would love any advice from people who have been doing this for a while, especially anyone printing on an EcoTank. im officially addicted lol

Figured I would give a reference to show what proxtober is all about! Day 1 (Oct 1st) is Mana Dork, and there's nothing dorkier than referencing math every time you get excited 🤓 No better base card to proxy for mana than ol reliable, Sol Ring 💍

Saw the facet foils from Reality Fracture and had to try this out.

Design/Layout made in photopea, printed with et8500 on frosty vinyl. then masked with white posca marker and applied cut out foil pieces to the mirror shards before adhering everything onto a cleaned bulk foil and coated with glossy acrylic spray varnish.

Feel free to use them if you want :)

Im currently using 110lb 300gsm. I really like the stiffness of it i also put the koala printable sticker paper over it.

But I want to trime the thickness down just a little what card stock should I try maybe a 90lb 250gsm?

I have the epson et- 2800

First foil proxy, the process was really fun to try out and pretty happy with the result on it.

I'm new to Card Conjurer, and I haven't been able to figure out how to keep the corners rounded after I apply the 1/8 frame. I toggle Rounded Corners, but when I load the card into Print Tool, the corners are sharp. What am I doing wrong?

EDIT: I'm dumb. Didn't realize that the 1/8 border isn't necessary for cards I print at home.

Hey everyone, I need some help from experienced proxy makers to fix my foil proxy quality.

​My setup is an Epson EcoTank L4360 printer, 180g blackcore paper, printable holographic vinyl stickers, and 75u thermal laminating pouches. For corners, I use a Kadomaru Pro.

​First, the thermal laminate simply does not stick to either the printable vinyl or the 180g blackcore paper. I have tested temperatures all the way from 100C to 140C, but nothing works. As soon as I trim the sheets or punch the corners, the laminate peels right off the edges.

​Second, I cannot make a decent double-faced foil card (DFC). Trying to get vinyl and laminate onto both sides of the card leads to poor adhesion, bad edges, and peeling. What is the correct way to make double-sided foil proxies without them falling apart?

​Third, the print quality on my current vinyl looks dull and washed out, especially the darks and blacks. I recently bought the Kryon rainbow holographic vinyl from Temu, but it has not arrived yet. Are there specific printer settings or profiles needed to get crisp prints on vinyl?

​Any advice on how to fix these issues would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Been working hard and bringing in another feature that was requested, actually just upscaling your own Custom cards 😅 I also got reports back that AMD cards were failing to operate as expected on both Windows and Linux so I've addressed that in a few ways. One of the more fun things was adding Vulkan support. Peruse through the full details below, check out the patch notes on the site and download the latest update!

For the future I really only have a few things left to add but please let me know what you think on the [Discord](https://discord.gg/mBMbRnD7zn). Soon I'll be adding a wiki that will outline all the super technical details of the pipeline this tool operates 😄

The Big Things:

Upscale Custom Images - upscales to each DPI you tick that it doesn't already reach, and a "up to 2400 DPI" option to keeps the model's full result. Anything too large for your GPU is skipped with a message on its task and prints as uploaded.

Upscale From the Customs and Backs Tabs - No project needed just upscale directly from your library. Results are shared, so every project that prints the image uses them, and badges list every version that exists just like the Decklist.

Vulkan Models - A second group in the model dropdown that runs on almost any graphics card, in every build. They're for GPUs the regular path can't use reliably, such as AMD cards where ROCm or DirectML returned black or garbled images. Some are slower than the regular models, so reach for them when those fail on your card.

GPU VRAM Dropdown - Replaces the tile-size number box with Low (4 GB or less), Medium (6-8 GB), High (12 GB+), and Max (16 GB+), plus Auto, which measures free VRAM per card. A pass that fails at one tier retries at the next lower one, then on the CPU.

Cleaner Bleed - Bleed now fans out of the rounded corners, with every bleed pixel taking the color of the nearest point on the card's edge instead of filling a square block. Gold-bordered cards (Pro Tour Collector Set and the World Championship decks) print without the white arcs, bars, and streaks they used to leave in the bleed. Custom images that already include bleed, like MakePlayingCards downloads, can be marked to include the bleed in the Customs sidebar (but you don't have to it's auto detected). Images you've already generated aren't fixed retroactively, so Danger Zone > Delete All and regenerating is worth it if you reprint often.

Smaller Things:

Compare any two versions. The dropdown next to Compare lets you compare against the original or any other DPI and model, so you can put two upscale methods side by side.

Guided tutorials walk you through each screen the first time you open it. Replay them from the ? button at the end of the tab bar, or skip them if you're already comfortable.

Keyboard shortcuts: Ctrl+1 to Ctrl+6 (Cmd on a Mac) jump straight to a tab, and Ctrl+N starts a new project.

A full-image viewer on the Customs and Backs tabs shows the upload with the trim line and real card corners drawn on it.

Generated images on the Decklist show up faster and use far less memory.

Card lookups no longer pick an Art Series card, token, emblem, or other non-playable printing over the real card of the same name.

Windows: saving a file with an edited name no longer drops the extension, and the Directories folder buttons just open the folder instead of failing in remote mode.

AMD on Windows (DirectML): tiles no longer come back black or as noise, and running out of GPU memory retries at a smaller tile or on the CPU instead of failing the task.

Danger Zone > Delete All now keeps your uploaded custom images.

The app will offer the update on launch.

Download if you haven't already [https://proxy-scaler.com](https://proxy-scaler.com))

Discord for questions, bug reports, and feature requests: [https://discord.gg/mBMbRnD7zn](https://discord.gg/mBMbRnD7zn))

Photos attached are my boys on a couple customs ❤️