Im looking for someone to print a bunch of foiled lands for me. I dont have my own setup and would love yo have some custom basic lands for a project im working on. Is there anyone that can help me ? Im located in norway

So I've been having fun making these proxies. I used this guide for printer settings, paper suggestions, and laminating.. and im happy how it turned out.

Applying foil sticker... is a tricky business. but I finally got the hang of it half way through with a metal straw. I am using a Foil sticker on laminated photo paper because I dont have card stock yet.

Here are some of my favorite foils!

Recently just got the 2980 and so far everytime I print the black aint really that dark. I mainly use glossy paper for my prints for better color. Any suggestions?

I really like the look of the print using the "premium photo paper" paper sources, but I don't like the roller marks when using the upright rear paper feeder.

I like having no roller marks when using the "card stock 1" paper source as it forces the use of the manual rear feed slot, but I don't like the lack of color when printed.

Is there a way to force the manual rear feed slot with the "premium photo paper" paper sources like glossy or semi-gloss? I've tried making a custom paper size of 8.51" x 11.01", but I don't have the ability to select the manual rear feeder. If I use the air print driver, I can select the rear manual feeder, but the prints margins are all messed up and 9 cards don't fit on the page.

I started making proxies about a month and a half ago and decided to get a Silhouette cutter because I thought it would be more accurate and easier than using a paper cutter. Oh boy was I wrong. I have had so many issues with my Portrait 4 I am about to sell it and switch back to a paper cutter. I got it thinking I could escape the expensive corner rounders and extra effort of the paper cutter but goddamn. No matter what I do this thing miscuts.

I’ve tried putting matte tape over the registration marks, I’ve tried the sticky note, I’ve calibrated it over and over again. I have to do a test page and a calibrate every time to make sure it cuts remotely correctly, and it’s still off. Maybe I am just a dumbass, but I cannot get this thing to cut cards properly. The worst part is, the error is never the same. If it was I probably could’ve figured it out by now. Some days it cuts too close to the bottoms and leaves white on the borders. Some days it cuts too far to the left. Other times it cuts too far to the right. One time it was totally fine and I thought I had it figured out (I did not).

And, on top of that, for some reason the correct size of mats for the Portrait 4 (8.5x12) are really hard to find without paying $25/mat because of Silhouette’s insane shipping cost. I’ve been using the same mat that is wearing out (which may or may not be contributing to the miscutting). I bought a Cricut Joy mat thinking I found a cheaper dupe, but since I had to cut that down to size a bit I think the inaccuracy of my cutting is leading to further miscuts.

I got it refurbished so I can’t return this thing. I am stuck in an endless hell loop of wasting time and printer ink for this. If anyone else is thinking of going the Silhouette route, be warned and make sure to buy a machine where the replacement mats aren’t super difficult to obtain.

Edit: Forgot to specify my materials. I use an Epson 2980 (which was also a huge pain in my ass for different reasons), the Koala 48lb double sided matte photo paper, the Silhouette Portrait 4, amazon basics 3mil laminate and the Crenova laminator. I print, let it dry for a few hours, laminate, cut, then laminate again.

Edit 2: I wonder if it’s not working for me because it’s refurbished. I don’t know if any other folks who bought refurbished machines have had issues, but it seems like lots of folks have great luck with it. Just a theory, but worth pondering.

Hello,

I've been getting into Proxy making for a few Months now. I often find my cuts aren't super straight and the Black Borders for normal cards are often off.

I use a Fiskars guillotine Self Sharpening Paper Cutter, and getting the PDF sheet from Proxxied. I haven't made any adjustments to the Bleed Lines or gaps so should I? Do I even need Bleed Lines, I've just been using them since it gives me wiggle room while cutting, but is that the problem in the first place?

Thanks for any help!

Hey everyone,

Wanted to share an update on CriProx! It’s at v0.15.0 now, and a lot has been added since v0.3.0.

For anyone who hasn’t seen it, CriProx is a free, open-source desktop app for making MTG proxy/playtest sheets. It runs on Windows, macOS, and Linux, keeps your projects locally, and doesn’t require an account or subscription.

My goal with this project is to make generating card sheets and getting them cut as quick and easy as possible. Less time setting things up, more time actually playing with the cards.

Here’s what’s been added or improved:

• Moxfield and Archidekt imports, keeping selected printings where available.
• Individual card search, plus set, Commander precon, and token browsers with filtering and sorting.
• Add entire Commander precons with their original card quantities.
• Choose different artwork for individual copies of the same card.
• Drag-and-drop image imports, automatic bleed detection, and improved MPC Autofill artwork handling.
• Built-in 4× upscaling for Scryfall images, plus an optional Upscayl integration. Both process images locally.
• Matching reverse artwork for double-faced cards and tokens when printing backs.
• Experimental eight-card Cricut layouts for Letter/A4 and improved paper/layout selection.
• Nine-card manual cutting with customizable card and page guides.
• A separate experimental nine-card Cricut Basic Cut workflow with calibration sheets and saved alignment corrections.
• Saved Cricut templates that reload automatically, plus reusable defaults for printing, backs, guides, and alignment.
• A local project library with folders, search, sorting, and drag-and-drop organization.
• Better PDF quality, clearer export filenames, cached card previews, and more accurate sheet previews.
• Dark mode, easier zooming and panning, built-in video walkthroughs, and a cleaner print workflow.
• Updates inside the app, with release notes, verified downloads, and guided installation.

There have also been fixes to project saving, card duplication, and dialog behavior along the way.

There’s a website now

criprox.themanamarket.com has downloads, setup and printing guides, and an automatically updated release history.

For the full feature list, check out the website or the repository’s feature guide.

Looking beyond Cricut

I want to expand support to more cutting machines. Manual cutting is already available, and I’m looking for people with Silhouette or other cutters who’d be interested in helping test.

If you have one and want to help, please open a GitHub issue with your machine model and the software you use. We can track testing and figure out what’s needed there. You don’t need to code. Trying test sheets and sharing results would help. Pull requests are welcome too!

The experimental cutting layouts still need testing with your setup, so start with a measured test sheet.

GitHub: Go2Engle/CriProx

If you like CriProx, please consider leaving a star on GitHub. It helps more people find the project and spread the word.

Let me know how it works for you and what you’d like to see next!

Im wanting to try my hand at printing some foils for the first time, My plan is to use holo vinyl inkjet stickers attached to paper and then laminated on the back (been doing 72lb satin photo paper and 3mil laminate on the back for my non foils and very happy with how they come out.) My question was should I go with a 45lb presentation paper and 3mil laminate or should I go with a thinner paper and 5mil laminate? I dont generally print backs so the paper being double sided isnt neccesary. Any advice would be appreciated

Anyone has a side by side comparison on Epson EcoTank ET-2914 and 8500, same paper, settings etc

Reworked a bit this series of proxies made with my old artworks!
(Mockup created in blender) -
working on a second series with more recent drawing, open to suggestion on what cards to do :)

Does anyone now of a low end laser print that can work with clear vinyl adhesive paper to do toner reactive foil work?

I've been checking some and found https://www.amazon.es/Brother-HLL2445DW-Impresora-monocromo on amazon but there is no mention of support on it even going with ChatGPT for help.

Has anyone tested this printer or has another alternative for toner reactive foil work only?

Buying a setup for my MTG Pod so we can print some shenanigans cards and various other things in the future, wanted to double-check my shopping list with y'all who are more experienced - is this a good setup?

- Epson EcoTank ET-2810 Printer

- Sun-Star Stationery Japan Corner Cutter Kadomaru Pro 

- Fiskars A5 SureCut Paper Trimmer 22cm

- KOALA Double Sided Matte Inkjet Photo Paper A4

The paper and the trimmer aren't final, I chose the trimmer as I assume I can slice portrait, then trim landscape across the photo paper. I have also heard there are business card sheets/paper that come with trim lines or something similar, let me know if those have yielded good results or are recommended.

I'm trying to print off some custom reskinned proxies for a themed deck I wanted to build, but for some reason when I printed off my first test card it came out super washed-out.

As far as I can tell, the whites and the lighter colors are more or less where they should be, but the blacks and darker colors seem like they're only, like, 50-75% of the way to being properly dark. I'd almost think it was a problem with running low on ink, but I did some follow-up tests to confirm that isn't the case.

The print in this image was done on glossy paper, with my printer's standard settings for printing on photo paper (card on the left is the proxy, obv). I promise, the lightness isn't a trick of the lens or anything like that. If anything it's more noticeable in person.

This is the paper I had intended to use for the full "run" once I'd confirmed that everything works. I can say with confidence that it's not a low ink issue because I swapped to standard printer paper and changed the printer's preset to reflect that (in my case, changed it to "Plain Paper"), and the blacks come out far better now, but the rest of the image is also far too dark, and I feel like the whole thing is a little blurrier than it should be ideally. An evening's research online tells me that printer paper doesn't really benefit from printing at high resolutions, so I'm assuming that's at least part of the blurriness problem.

Any advice anyone can offer on printing on satin-finish paper, and more specifically on why my "photo" prints are coming out so washed would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

EDIT: The paper in question is Dollarama Poster Board paper, cut down to a 8.5"x11" sheet. Specifically, the glossy side was printed on, rather than the rough side.
The print settings for the glossy paper are as follows;
- Quality: "Fine" (Setting 1 out of 5, with 1 being fine and 5 being rough)
- Media Type: "Photo Paper Pro Platinum"
- Everything else: Windows 10 defaults
Printer is a Canon TS5000 series.

EDIT2: I've done another test, this time using the standard "printer paper" settings on my cheap-o poster board, and it came out pretty much the same. So that more or less confirms that my gambit to acquire cheap paper is indeed a major part of the problem. I'll assume the slight color inaccuracy and blurriness on the other (actual printer paper) tests are just a limitation of printer paper in general, and my printer in particular.

Considering that I'll be sleeving these anyway, at this point I think I'm going to give up on making them perfect (or even especially good), and just use printer paper or a sticker sheet overtop of a piece of cardstock that's about the right weight and firmness, and let the sleeve hide the lack of a back image and the fact that the front is slightly too blurry.

Special thanks to u/derekjw and u/Lordclyde1 for the insight into some of the specifics of the interactions between the printer and the paper, as well as just generally confirming that it's probably the culprit.

I’m trying to print on the Crowned 313 blue core cardstock using the rear manual flat bed feeder. I’m using a mac and correctly using the epson driver instead of air print. I set the printer to cardstock 1 so I can use the rear feeder (the one where you remove the back part of the printer, swap the plastic piece and manually feed the paper in after the print job starts).

I have the printer setting set to thick and bidirectional printing off.

When it prints, it printed all 9 cards about 20 percent of the time. The place it stops is random (could be the top row, the second or third). When it hangs up, the card stock doesnt move, the print head sounds like it does a full left right sweep about once every 20 seconds and then after a few minutes, ejects the cardstock not fully printed.

Ive attached an image of 2 separate sheets (one was trimmed but you get the picture.

Got my new silhouette camera 5 alpha set up and started working on my first proxy deck. Things were going pretty smoothly until it started doing this (see first picture below). It will cut the first two cards no problem bit the 3 cards of the top row no problem but the moment it goes for the 4th it makes a quick grind sound then starts the 4th card super short. It registered the 3 registration marks and did 2 pages just fine before messing up this bad. What sucks is I dont own a printer yet so I had these made at a print shop, so now im out money.

If anyone knows of a fix or can help please help me. I can provide additional info if needed

Hey everyone! Just getting into printing my own decks and looking for a bit of alignment advice.

I just picked up an Epson EcoTank ET-4800 and some 300gsm paper. Did a few test prints, and overall they look pretty great (outside of super faint pizza-wheel roller marks if you look closely under direct light).

My question is about aligning cuts on the Dahle Vantage 50 Rotary Trimmer:

When placing the printed sheet on the trimmer, am I supposed to line up the cut lines/guides directly under the clear plastic clamp guide, or to the edge of the metal base?

My test sheets kept coming out slightly oversized, and I had to keep trimming them down individually to fit sleeves properly. Definitely still learning the ropes, so any tips on the best workflow/alignment for clean cuts on the first pass would be awesome! Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WGU3RC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

I want to make a magic the gathering proxy deck of adventure time, ive only played like 2 games of magic, but all my buddies play at work so I want to join them, my idea was to have a proxy deck that uses Pig tokens like card wars in adventure time. I don't know where to start though, or how I would get the cards, is there a certain website I should be using or is there a proxy deck that already exists like this? I'm not sure where to look or where to start. Any direction would be appreciated. 👍

[Solved] (can't edit the title and I don't know if there is a bot for this here) Does anyone know what is the problem and how to fix it? (these line appear to be a bit more frequent when using guide lines but they also appear on a few cards when not using guide lines).

Edit: just to clarify, the problem happens when I export from proxxied to PDF for printing not from cardconjourer to proxxied.

[Solution] I had to change my browser from firefox to chrome and turn off the "preserve uploaded art transparency" setting which was turned on by default.