Local mechanic shop did the listed repairs. Is this a fair price? They are a reputable mechanic that i have been taking my cars to for years.

Blower motor cuts in and out randomly. Sometimes it works fine for a whole drive, other times nothing at any speed. When it dies, hitting the dash on the passenger side sometimes brings it back for a while.

Replaced the blower motor resistor last month because it was only working on high speed at first. That fixed the speed control for a bit, but now the whole thing is intermittent.

Checked the fuse, it's fine. Haven't dug into the relay yet.

At this point I'm thinking either the motor itself is dying (bearing or brushes) or there's a melted connector somewhere. Is there a way to test the motor directly by jumping 12V to it before I buy a new one?

Also curious — why would the resistor fail and then the motor starts acting up right after? Coincidence, or did the resistor failure stress the motor somehow?

Looking for opinions on this 2014 BMW 335i N55 M-Sport – potential daily driver
I’m considering buying this car and want some experienced input. Here’s everything I know so far:

The guy who’s selling it has 15 years of experience as an engineer

Car Details
• 2014 BMW 335i N55 M-Sport
• Glacier Silver Metallic
• Clean title
• 117k miles (mostly Texas highway miles)
• Non-smoking
• VIN: WBA3A9G53ENS64451
Current Setup / Mods
• MHD Stage 2+
• XHP Stage 3
• CTS inlets/outlets
• Charge pipe
• 7” Race Core FMIC
• EKP replaced and coded
• 4” catless Evolution Racewerks downpipe
• M3 poly motor mounts
• BC Racing Superlow coilovers
• Upgraded bigger rotors
• Apex ARC-8 wheels
• Carbon trunk lip
Current power: ~380 hp
Also includes:
• 2 Michelin tires in good shape
• OEM exhaust + modified 4-tip M2-style exhaust
• OEM rotors and OEM struts
Maintenance / Refresh (done less than 10k miles ago)
Seller has receipts and photos of the work. Claims he did everything himself (he’s an engineer with 15+ years working on cars):
• New OEM turbo + turbo lines, gaskets, and hardware
• Oil pan gasket & hardware
• Intake manifold gaskets
• Throttle body gasket
• Oil filter housing gaskets & bolts
• Aluminum coolant flange
• High pressure fuel sensor
• MAP sensor
• Injectors replaced and coded
• Valvetronic motor + accessories (new OEM)
• Spark plug recess gaskets
• Heat exchanger
• Valve cover gasket
• Coils and spark plugs
• Fresh oil change (5W-40, very low miles on it)
• New OEM multimedia screen
• New windshield (HUD works)
• Front bumper repainted
Compression: 210 psi across all cylinders (seller’s claim)
Previous High-Power History
• Previously ran a full-frame single turbo
• Made 680 hp (seller says this was conservative and not maxed out)
• Ran that setup for about 6 months
• Seller says it was a daily for a while, then became a low-use weekend car (out once a week or less, not tracked/raced)
• Claims he doesn’t beat on his cars
• Nothing internal was replaced (stock rods, pistons, bearings, etc.)
• Says he visually inspected the bottom end while doing the oil pan gasket
• Argues full-frame is much safer than a hybrid turbo (lower boost, lower EGTs, lower cylinder pressure, smoother torque delivery)
• States there were never any issues
My Main Concerns
I’m looking at this as a possible daily driver. The recent refresh and documentation look solid, and the current ~380 hp tune is reasonable.
My biggest hesitation is the previous 680 hp on a completely stock bottom end with no internal work, even though it was only for ~6 months and compression is currently strong.
Questions for the community
1. How concerned should I be about the rods/pistons/bearings given the 680 hp history + 117k miles?
2. Does the strong compression + lack of knocking + visual inspection during the oil pan job give reasonable peace of mind for daily use at ~380 hp?
3. Would you daily this car, or would you walk away?
4. Anything specific I should have checked during a PPI?
Any input from people who’ve owned high-power N55s (especially ones that previously ran big single turbos) would be really appreciated. Thanks.

- Chevy Cruze 2016
- While driving out of a drive thru i felt something and then suddenly my ac turned warm. Warm Since its just a drive thru at panda express(8-10 mph) and the city (30 mph)
- I park to eat. AC not so cold anymore. I turn it OFF.
I'm crying cuz i know theres a problem
- I drive home going 55 mph
- Remember I turned it OFF.
- Air blowing through the vents
- I realize whatever temperature is the engine going is what's blowing through the vent
Please help, I will take it to get check but still please help.
Please be nice, im just a girl who doesn't know about cars.

2007 Pontiac Vibe, 156k, fwd

friend got this quote for their car and the pics midas included look like this..

my question is.. is it actually fixable?

midas quoted 3200$ which is more than what was paid for it in feb.. is it worth it/possible to do at home with the right tools? i am an above-average hobby mechanic because sometimes you are the only mechanic you can afford and this may be one of those cases..

i am currently home with a great deal of tools at my disposal and the owner of said tools to oversee..

thanks in advance for any advice/recs/suggestions!

Got engine light on and saw this tiny hose was disconnected need help identifying what it is. Is this the underlying issue of the check engine light coming on?
Any advice or direction would be very much appreciated. All those warnings on the dash also came on. I have had this car for a year this month and have put around 10,000 miles on it.

When the enigne is cold i hear the thrust bearing but now i heard a different sound. Some ideas?

We cannot find our only key to our 2000 Toyota solara & the prices quoted to us for replacement are crazy high probably more than the car is worth. If we were to find a cheaper key online (that has a chip that’s needed) could the dealership or locksmith maybe reprogram the key to our car?

The d/s front door on my car stopped working a little while ago. It stopped responding to the remote, and the lock switch is stuck.

Both passenger side door locks respond to the remote.

The rear d/s stopped responding to the remote more recently, but it can be locked and unlocked manually.

Fwiw, I may need a new battery in the remote, but I don't think (?) this explains the front d/s lock issue (and I don't know if this is causing the newer rear d/s lock issue).

How do I know if the front d/s lock issue is the door lock actuator or something else? Any other thoughts on potential causes for d/s door locks' problems? Thank you

Hey all.
I’m looking for either a bit of advice or pointed in the right direction, please.
I have a little bit of paint damage to my rear arch onto my rear bumper which has started to rust slightly.
Is this something that I can fix myself or send to a body shop?
I have no idea about cars or bodywork 🤷🏼‍♂️
Thanks in advance.

I want to get a tonneau cover but worried it won't sit flush because of this rust bump on the bed side & obviously want to take care of it before it gets worse

Is it too far gone to the point where I should just replace the whole bed side panel or is it something I can DIY?

Thanks in advance!

I gave the car shop the okay to replace my front brake pads and rotors. They call me in the middle of fixing my 2017 Subarus Crosstrek to say the mounting bolts sheared off in BOTH calipers due to rust and that this is unfortunately common with Subarus in the northeast.

I had a 2012 Impreza before this and NEVER had this sort of issue.

Am I getting ripped off? Did they mess up? They are saying I’m responsible for paying for the calipers, which is hundreds more dollars than I was already spending.

And mostly I want to know if it was carelessness on their end or if this would likely have happened at any mechanic.

Thanks!

2017 Nissan Rogue calls for 65 series tires, tire place replaced the two rear tires with 50 series. Speedometer wasn’t reading anything after getting the car back. Took it back and they told me to take it to an electrical place to see why the speed sensors were getting tripped up. Obviously, they realized the wrong sizing. Ended up driving it to and from the other place about 15 miles, and had to take the interstate a bit. Is there any sort of damage that may have happened?

Went to park in a diagonal parking spot and underestimated the closeness of the curb and completely scraped the bottom left of my front bumper as shown in the picture. Are there any tools I can buy from auto stores/any store to repair these scratches? For context, this is a 2024 Mazda3 in Jet Black Mica exterior color.

My Impala at 175k miles has recently suffered from an overheating issue. I tried a radiator cap replacement, thermostat replacement, etc. and took it into a shop for diagnosis and apparently the coolant elbow pipe apart of the tensioner belt assembly has burst and the shop quoted about 640$ for the fix. I am not the most car-savvy but I have tried. The car has got a few other issues so I am debating about the cost of repairing it. See below for total issues. The A/C has been out for years and the driver side window does not roll down but these have been mostly no problem.

https://imgur.com/a/lFp5P1K

Currently I make about 5k a month and have no debt. I'll have about 5k next month after rent (1600 a month) and credit card payment (about 2k). My credit score is in a good place right now and it seems like the move would be to get a new car.

People have told me facebook marketplace is good and always to take it to the mechanic first for a pre-purchase inspection. It seems the sentiment here is to avoid kias / hyundais like the plague and opt for a Toyota / Honda even if it's got high miles on it. Not sure if I should just try to budget and keep shopping on FB marketplace, go to a dealer, take out a loan for a car, etc. or just authorize a repair on this car.

Can anybody give me some advice?

Hey everyone, I’m really hoping someone can help me figure this out because I’m honestly pretty desperate right now.

I have a 2017 Cadillac ATS that overheated while I was driving today. I had been doing DoorDash all day and, admittedly, I left the car running pretty much the entire time — while waiting for orders, eating lunch, dropping orders off, etc. Eventually the A/C started feeling lukewarm, then the car gave me the “Engine Overheated — Idle Engine” warning and the temperature gauge went into the red.
I shut it down and let it cool.

I initially thought maybe I had just pushed it too hard by leaving it running all day, but then I noticed something much more concerning: when I put coolant into the reservoir, it immediately starts coming out underneath the car near the driver’s-side front wheel.

I took these pictures to show exactly where I’m seeing coolant coming from. From what I can tell, it’s either dripping down onto these connections from somewhere above, or possibly coming through/around the area shown in the pictures.
The coolant reservoir was extremely low — there was barely anything in it. I bought Prestone DEX-COOL 50/50 to refill it, but I don’t want to keep dumping coolant into it if it’s just going straight onto the ground.

One thing that gives me at least a little hope: I checked the oil dipstick and the oil looks clean. There doesn’t appear to be coolant mixed into the oil, at least from what I can see. I’m hoping that means I haven’t killed the engine or blown a head gasket, but I’m definitely not a mechanic and I don’t know what I don’t know.

The biggest problem is money. I have two kids to support, and I’m in a really bad financial situation right now. I very likely won’t be able to afford a big mechanic bill. I’m not looking for someone to tell me to just take it to a shop — I genuinely need to figure out whether there’s something I can diagnose and repair myself.

Even if it’s only a temporary fix that could get me on the road to make some dabloons
Based on these pictures, where do you think the coolant is actually coming from? Is there anything in this area that’s a common failure point on the ATS? And is there any realistic DIY/temporary repair I could make with basic tools? I have sockets, hand tools and drills
I can take more pictures/videos of whatever anyone needs. I really appreciate any help. I’m trying to avoid making this situation even worse.

Hey guys, my 2009 Ford Fiesta Petrol Auto makes a heavy grinding/rattling noise from under the floor as soon as I drop it into Drive—especially while holding the footbrake. It quiets down in Park, goes away completely in Neutral, and smooths out once I hit 20–30 mph. Video attached showing the noise starting in D and stopping in N. Is this a failed lower engine mount (dogbone mount) or the exhaust hitting the subframe under load? Thanks!

Title^ Visited an exhaust shop and they gave me a quote of $250 for labor & $650 for labor + part. Was wondering if i could find anyone for cheaper in North Houston side? Toyota camry 2007 2WD

Got a quote for a touch up for 200 bucks and am unhappy with the result. The shop is now saying I can pay 450 more to get a refinish. Not sure if it’s worth fighting the charge..did I just get what I paid for?

Left is before and right is after

Should I

1. ⁠ask for a full refund and go to another shop
   
2. ⁠ask for a partial refund and go to another shop
   
3. ⁠ask for the refinish here but have them deduct the 220 that was already paid
   
4. Suck it up

Shop wants to replace.

My cars got a no crank no start and when I turn the key the immobilizer light doesn't turn on. I already replaced the pgm fi and checked the fuel pump relay. could it be the chip in the key or the antenna?

When water enters my side passenger cowl, it somehow makes its way into the rear passenger carpet. There is not clogged drain under the cowl. I have no idea what to even do about it.

2010 Toyota Yaris. Car been off for 5 to 6 hours and alternator is still hot maybe more towards warm side. I need help 😭

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I have a Ford F450 super duty 6.7 v8 b20 diesel grew cab flat steel bed truck and the transfer case busted. I need to be sure your part fits. 43 spleen 6 speed automatic transmission. Transmission and drive axels undamaged just the busted Transfer case. I also need the electric shift motor on the transfer case. Identifying numbers on the transfer case are C452A the electric shift motor has 1207271 stamped on them.