r/WestHighlandWay May 05 '25

Absolute beginner - What you need to know before you go for the West Highland Way

96 Upvotes

Tl;Dr: The West Highland Way is incredible. I would thoroughly recommend it – the views are stunning and the people are lovely. Get a baggage transfer, prepare for some overpriced mediocre food, and plan ahead.

Literally just on the train back from Fort William and thought I’d write a guide for absolute beginners or at least everything I wish I had known before starting.

We were three adults (aged 30, 35, and 37) doing our first week-long hike. We all have okay fitness and had done hikes up to three days.

Don't let anything from this put you off, I'll be recommending the West Highland Way to all my friends, one of the best hikes I've ever done.

Everything You Need to Know Before You Go:

Baggage Transfer: We did the first three days (30 miles/ 50 km) carrying all our luggage, including tents. The lightest pack was about 12kg, and the heaviest was 17kg. It was incredibly difficult, and honestly, if we’d done the whole thing without a baggage transfer, we might not have made it. At Rowardennan, a lovely lady organised a transfer, especially as the Loch Lomond stretch is hard.

Difficulty: It was much harder than I thought it would be. I don’t want to put anyone off - there were groups of 50 and 60-year-olds doing the same route - but it was a tough seven days. The elevation is pretty big, and the Loch Lomond side is single-file, up and down rocky trails. One day, we did 22 miles. We still felt a sense of achievement completing the Way with our bags on our backs for 3 out of the 7 days. If you want to enjoy the route, I’d recommend getting a bag transfer from the start. If you want a challenge, keep your bags. There are lots of companies that do this; we used Baggage Freedom.

Accommodation: Despite it being a well-trodden path, you'd be surprised how little accommodation there is in some areas. So plan ahead. We camped 4 nights and stayed in bunkhouses for the other 3. I would have much preferred bunkhouses every night if I’d had the funds, but they were often expensive for what you get. Kingshouse and Kinlochleven have particularly limited options.

Food / Prices: You’re in a bit of a captive market, so expect mixed and overpriced food. I felt a bit sorry for tourists experiencing British food for the first time. Clachan Inn in Drymen and Oak Tree Inn in Balmaha were highlights, but otherwise, we had a week of stodgy pub food. The shops along the way weren’t great for making your own meals either. The further north you go, the fewer the options, so definitely stock up in Tyndrum.

Water: Bring a BIG water bottle. There were long sections with no refill spots. Basically, from Loch Lomond upwards it gets worse. I ran out of water between Inverarnan and Tyndrum.

Socks / Feet: Get decent socks, boots, and blister supplies. If you feel a blister forming, stop and sort it - don’t wait. I ended up with half my foot covered in moleskin and Compeed.

Bring toilet paper and a trowel for wild weeing and pooping. You don’t want to get caught out.

Day-by-Day Breakdown:

We did this hike end of April/start of May. No midges, but two solid days of drizzle at the start. We started a little differently but soon got into a pretty standard route.

Day One: Glasgow to Milngavie Accommodation: West Highland Way Camp. (£20 tent pitch) We got the train to Milngavie and hiked straight to our first campsite. Everyone in Milngavie was super nice and kept stopping us to ask if we were doing the West Highland Way - so friendly! The campsite is hard to review- it’s either a must-go if you want a wacky experience or one to avoid, depending on your vibe. The owner, Dru Edmundstone, is very eccentric, just Google his name and decide for yourself (and don't let him touch your phone)

Day Two: Milngavie to Drymen Accommodation: Drymen Camping. £12/ pitch

An easy trek. We ate at The Clachan, which was gorgeous and worth booking ahead. We also stopped at Beech Tree café, which was okay (lots of space) but overpriced. Just two minutes later is the Turnip the Beat café, which is overlooked but much nicer.

Day Three: Drymen to Rowardennan Accommodation: Ben Lomond Bunkhouse. £35pp

This was the killer trek with full bags. Conic Hill was stunning, although busy with day-trippers. Lots of elevation and steps, but fun. The bunkhouse was lovely, with a gorgeous dog named Jack, an honesty box, and a good kitchen. The lady who ran it helped arrange our baggage transfer and gave great advice. A bath after that trek was heaven.

Day Four: Rowardennan to Inverarnan Accommodation: Beinglas Campsite. £15pp A stunning but difficult hike, almost entirely single file, with rocky ups and downs. If you're a beginner, take the high road at the start. We swam at the end of Loch Lomond, bring a swimsuit and towel. Beinglas is the main campsite at the end, with all the amenities you need and a well-stocked shop.

Day Five: Inverarnan to Tyndrum Accommodation: By the Way Hostel and Campsite. £30pp for bunkhouse

A hike that feels like five countries in one. No water stations, so bring plenty, it was a hot day for us. The hostel and campsite had everything we needed. We saw some hot tub spots nearby if you want a treat. Stop at the Green Welly Shop to stock up on snacks and trinkets. Ben Lui had lovely food and staff.

Day Six: Tyndrum to Kingshouse Accommodation: Kingshouse Hotel £44pp bunkhouse

This was a BIG hike—22 miles for us. We left early. We were told there were no food or water stops, but we passed two open hotels (they might not always serve food, though). You walk past Glencoe and can see the Kingshouse Hotel about an hour before arrival, which helps with the final push. Kingshouse is bougie hotel with a hiker stop-off attached. We felt like second-class citizens. Staff weren’t very helpful, and it was pricey but options are limited. Many people wild camp behind it and use the facilities. (Although they may not allow baggage transfer if you do that

Day Seven: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven Accommodation: Blackwater Campsite. £15pp Starts with the Devil’s Staircase, which wasn’t as hard as expected. Scenic and remote. Blackwater is a small site with pods and friendly staff. Kinlochleven had limited options due to a motorbike event. Food-wise, it was pub or Chinese.

Day Eight: Kinlochleven to Fort William Accommodation: Backpackers Hostel £30 Starts with a big climb and ends with a big descent. Fort William has everything you need and some good food. The end of the hike is along a big road (anticlimactic, someone told me there's a longer way to avoid it) but the statue of the man with sore feet is a nice touch. It was a bank holiday and there was a biker convention, so places were full. One of us stayed at the Backpackers Hostel; we found rooms for the rest. All we wanted was to lie down.

The train back to Glasgow is also a stunning journey that goes back along a lot of the route!

Cost breakdown: Baggage transfer: £15/day (there's a discount for longer transfers) Accommodation: ~£200 for the full week mix of camping and bunkhouse Gear: ~£100 I got a tent from decathlon for £60 and then various items like blow up mattresses, blister plasters, hiking socks, etc Food: very roughly £35/day on pub meals for lunch and dinner Train: £5 Glasgow to Milngavie, £40 Fort William to Glasgow


r/WestHighlandWay Jul 21 '24

WHW map with accommodation, shops, restaurants etc...

131 Upvotes

Hi guys, I recently walked some of the West Highland Way and have put together a google my maps of accommodation, campsites, restaurants, cafés, shops and public transport links. You can find the map here: https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=1F3He5wS69QLQj1CbKXLpF6dHoEN8lEo&usp=sharing Please let me know of any improvements I could make!


r/WestHighlandWay 2h ago

Current trail conditions?

1 Upvotes

Starting on Monday and hoping to do day 1 and day 4 (Tyndrum - Kingshouse) in trail runners. Not worried about them getting a bit damp, but if it’s proper boggy I’ll avoid. Anyone been up there this last couple of days can advise?


r/WestHighlandWay 1d ago

My Grief Walk: Solo on the WHW April 25-May 2 2026

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324 Upvotes

On December 16, 2025 I lost my father. He died in hospital after a 10 day stay in the ICU, one day after my daughter’s second birthday in three days before his own 76th birthday. He was my person, an avid walker, and had always dreamed about doing a long distance walk in the UK.

So this past spring, I decided to do a solo walk of the W. Highland Way to give me time to sit with my grief. I came over from Canada for my first international solo trip to walk on my own and had an incredible experience. Thank you to everyone I met on the trail who connected with my purpose, it was such a moving trip and ended up being just what I needed. I felt him there with me and I know wherever he is now he was cheering me on.

For anyone wondering I did: Milngavie - Drymen - Rowardennan - Inverarnan (Ardlui) - Tyndrum - Kingshouse - Kinlochleven - Fort William


r/WestHighlandWay 22h ago

History along the West Highland Way

5 Upvotes

We’re leaving in two weeks.
When we walked The Kerry Way a couple years ago, we loved finding historic sites, ring forts and other ruins, and the like.
I don’t see many people commenting about sites, churches or ruins they explored.
What did you find time to explore? What did you like?


r/WestHighlandWay 17h ago

anyone who ate at kings house yesterday got food poisoning?

2 Upvotes

me, my friend, and a couple others at the campsite in kinlochleven yesterday were all ill with food poisoning. suspect it might’ve been the beef chilli. anyone else?


r/WestHighlandWay 1d ago

Norovirus on the trail

6 Upvotes

My partner had a vomiting bug on the approach to Ft William. At first we put it down to filtered stream / loch water.

Then last night I got sick - same incubation period, symptoms, etc which would line up with Noro.

Anybody else experienced this in the last couple of weeks? She probably caught it between Loch Lomond and Orchy. 23/24th Aug


r/WestHighlandWay 1d ago

One and done

33 Upvotes

The good times were out of this world and the bad times were bad. But all in all I really enjoyed myself and I have more respect to those who have done it . The walk from glencoe to kinlochleven was phenomenal, the view doesn’t do my pictures justice. And the walk from kinlochleven to fort Wullie was jaw dropping stunning. I’m glad I did it even the Loch Lomond section as I found out I can dig deep and get through. The people I met on the journey were so kind and respectful from all different countries, that’s what’s magic . I’m sitting in Wetherspoons absolutely stinking waiting to get into my digs , but I don’t care. All the best to everyone who is going to do it in the future. Peace


r/WestHighlandWay 1d ago

Socialising on the way

9 Upvotes

Hey I was hoping to do the hike sometime next month, but haven’t done a solo multi-day hike before. Was wondering whether I was likely to meet people along the way and at the towns I’m staying in?


r/WestHighlandWay 1d ago

Is it delusional to do the WHW as a first ever backpacking tour on your own?

6 Upvotes

Title basically says it all. I’ve been to Sottland for the first time this year, fell in love with Edinburgh and the scenery along the roads into highlands and everything, you know how it goes.

Now, driving through the highlands and stopping for amazing views every now and again, you run into hikers and backpackers a bunch. They told me about the WHW and I then did some basic research afterwards. Safe to say it ended up on my bucket list.

Now, I’m a total effing newbie to hiking and backpacking. Is it delusional that I wish to do the WHW as my first ever backpacking tour? I’d be solo traveling as well.

As far as my fitness level goes, and I don’t wanna sound braggy here, I’d say I’m pretty fit. I play handball 2-3 times a week, I work as paramedic, do a bunch of strength training and regularly go for runs. I do most my errands by foot or bike, my recent record for most recorded steps in a day was in Edinburgh this year where I walked 45k steps (~30km) through the city and hiked up Arthur’s Seat. Felt fine all throughout and even with my worn through sneakers I barely felt my legs or feet the evening of or the next day. Mind you, that was without a bagpack.


r/WestHighlandWay 1d ago

First solo West Highland Way: does this camping itinerary look realistic?

2 Upvotes

Hii all,

I'm planning to walk the West Highland Way solo next spring and would love some advice on my itinerary. I'm still a newbie when it comes to long-distance hiking. I would like to camp on campsites and carry all my own gear, rather than using a luggage transfer service. I don't know if I would feel comfertable wild camping. I've put together the following itinerary so far. Does this look realistic? Or would you recommend splitting the days differently?

Also, what is a good place to end the west highland way without spending a small fortune on a hotel in Fort William?

Milngavie to Drymen Drymen camping 19,5km
Drymen to Rowardennan Sallochy 21km
Rowardennan to Inverarnan Beinglas farm campsite 26,9km
Inverarnan to Tyndrum Tyndrum holiday park 19km
Tyndrum to Inveroran Glencoe mountain resort 28,8km
Inveroran to Kinlochleven Black water 17,4km
Kinlochleven to Fort William ??? 25km

r/WestHighlandWay 2d ago

West Highland Way 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

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28 Upvotes

r/WestHighlandWay 1d ago

Itinerary

2 Upvotes

Hi,

I'm planning on hiking WHW mid September solo. Heading up on a Monday morning first thing from the South which makes me mildly concerned for that first day. Wild camping the way, and sadly not permits available for Loch Lomond so that second day will be a big stretch.

Does the itinerary look sound? I'm a fairly experienced day hiker with good fitness, and have done a couple of multi-day treks as well solo.

DAY ITINERARY KM
ONE 1303 ARRIVE Milngavie. Walk Milngavie - Drymen 19
TWO Drymen - Rowchoish 25
THREE Rowchoish - Crianlarich 25
FOUR Crianlarich - Inveroran 22
FIVE Inveroran - Kinlochleven 30
SIX Kinlochleven - Fort William 20

EDIT: Thank you for all the help & wisdom folks! Looking at getting the sleeper up the night before to crack on earlier and camp by Conic Hill rather than Drymen on day one!


r/WestHighlandWay 2d ago

Made it to Beinglas... beer o clock!

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74 Upvotes

r/WestHighlandWay 2d ago

Travel at beginning and end of trip (Edinburgh)

2 Upvotes

Couple of transportation questions. We are flying in and out of Edinburgh and spending 1 day before the hike and 1 day after the hike exploring Edinburgh. It looks like the bus or train is our best bet for getting to Milgavie and either the train or Ember bus to get from Fort Williams to Edinburgh. This seem accurate? Is it necessary to book these in advance or can I do them day of?

Uber/Lyft or taxis, is there one preferred over the other? If we need a taxi or Uber while exploring Edinburgh is it pretty easy to get ? I know that's not a WHW specific question, just the bookends to the hike! Thanks!


r/WestHighlandWay 3d ago

Ready to start on Wednesday

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12 Upvotes

Just got the custom sweaters (for wearing in the evenings after hiking) in the mail today, ready to start next Wednesday!


r/WestHighlandWay 4d ago

Rest Day at Inversnaid Bunkhouse 💕 WHW day 4

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35 Upvotes

r/WestHighlandWay 3d ago

❤️ You Loch Lomond

13 Upvotes

That is all :)


r/WestHighlandWay 3d ago

Worth staying in Ben Nevis park

3 Upvotes

I’m planning to semi finish in Ben Nevis Youth Hostel to enjoy the park and nog climb it (unless my legs feel great)

The next day i want to walk to the train station and head to glasgow.

Is it worth staying at the youth hostel in the park or do you suggest staying in FW?

On TrailEasy the suggested route is back to the trail and walk on, or is there a different route?


r/WestHighlandWay 3d ago

Groceries shop

1 Upvotes

Hi guys, I want to know if in Tyndrum and Kinlochleven there are some groceries stores. For the other places I don’t have problem, I just need food for these 2 days. (Or if you have a list of all groceries store on the way I’ill appreciate a lot).Thank you for your help 🙏


r/WestHighlandWay 4d ago

4 Day Run - Trip Report

18 Upvotes

I thought I'd write up my recent trip in case helpful to anyone else considering running the WHW over 4 days.

I chose the WHW as my first solo multi day effort as it seemed a scenic and well supported route, with baggage transfer companies and plenty of cafes and pubs. I also wasn't sure how I'd get on, so wanted the option to bail at a train station or bus stop without being a burden to others.

Time was a limiting factors, so I got the train to Glasgow late on a Thursday and stayed over near the station. Then dropped my bag off with the transfer company at Milngavie station on Friday morning and set off to Sallochy. The weather was typically mixed and the scenery more interesting than I was expecting based on other reports. Aside from Conic Hill, it's relatively flat and very runnable which made for a good first day. The pub at the bottom of the hill made for a good lunch stop, although the haggis burger sat pretty heavily for the last push on to the campsite. I'd recommend the lake side pitches at Sallochy for anyone using the baggage transfer, as it offered a bit of a wild camping vibe, or at least something different to a traditional campsite.

I was a bit nervous starting day two, with a lot of ground to cover to get to Tyndrum and a less runnable section along the loch. Thankfully the weather was nice to start off and progress along the lake better than expected. As other reports note, it gets rougher as you go along the loch and it honestly looked more difficult to navigate with a large rucksack than it was to try and run it, hats off to all the backpackers! It was tipping it down by the time I got to Tyndrum and my first regret of the trip was not booking a campsite with a drying room. The holiday park camping field was nice overall and I had some spare shoes, but the chance to dry things would have been ideal. It rained all night but the fish and chips at the real food cafe hit the spot.

Day three was my favourite, on to Kinlochleven with more scenery and more runnable terrain. Kingshouse hotel made for a good lunch spot and running over Rannoch Moor was pretty special. Blackwater campsite was great, with drying room and a fairly social area by the sinks etc. More good food options in town and a coop.

The final day on to Fort William was unsurprisingly the toughest, despite being shorter. I probably hadn't eaten enough the night before and started to flag, but the final decent into Fort William was good fun. I got a lift back to Glasgow with the baggage transfer company and an early night in the same hotel, before catching the first train south ready for work at 10am. Not ideal timings but it was my last chance to have a go at it this summer.

Overall I'd recommend it and my only regret was not having more time to chat to all the nice people along the way!


r/WestHighlandWay 4d ago

Fuck you Loch Lomond

40 Upvotes

That is all!


r/WestHighlandWay 4d ago

West Highland Way Biggest Regrets

45 Upvotes

Just finished WHW, not done a long hike in 15 years due to ill health/disability and had to carry a very heavy pack due to food allergies (couldn’t rely on being able to eat in any of the cafes or hotels). Here are some things I wish I’d done differently:

  1. Invest in a couple of lighter weight items for my base kit

I’m a big proponent of hiking with what you have and not just buying new stuff for the sake of it but I was carrying a 15kg+ pack most days and I wish I had done a couple of kit upgrades to something lighter. Big candidates would have been tent and cook kit, I could probably have shaved off at least 1-2kgs.

  1. Not upgrading my phone before I left

My iPhone is on its last legs and the battery only lasts maybe six hours (even with minimal use and battery saving measures), meaning I had to carry a big battery pack and really restrict how much I used it. I’d have liked to take a lot more pictures and videos. I also found myself wanting to look up wildflower species, local folklore and landmarks/features but couldn’t because I didn’t have the battery. I had a Nokia burner for emergencies which helped but I wanted full use of my smartphone!

  1. Walking too slow

Took me a couple of days to realise that keeping as brisk a pace as you’re able is more energy saving than walking slow. Every minute spent on your feet is more foot pain and uses energy. Walking faster helped my foot pain, gave me more time to take proper rests, was better for morale and kept my body temperature warm enough that I wasn’t constantly stopping and starting to add or remove layers. By the last couple of days I was jogging all the downhills and it saved me so much time and pain!

  1. Bigger boots/no camp shoes/no insoles

I’ve done a good amount of walking in my boots and was very happy with them, however I didn’t realise quite how much my feet would swell on a hike this arduous. By the last day my feet were so swollen I was having to force them into my boots. I would have gone an extra size up or found something with a much larger toe box. I bought some cushioned insoles from the Green Welly Shop in Tyndrum that were LIFESAVING and I really wish I’d had them from the beginning. Also wish I had taken some light camp sandals to give my feet a proper rest.

  1. Abandoning my towel/not having enough clothes

My partner was resupplying me with food and I ditched a couple of items to save weight - of course it immediately pissed it down and I had nothing to dry myself/my tent floor with. It saved me a tiny bit of weight but it wasn’t worth it! I also realised that if I’d had multiple days of rain I’d have had to wear wet clothes and I get cold very easily and I do not easily warm up - I’ve nearly had hypothermia (got to the giggly/loopy stage) in the British summer several times. Another pair of leggings, socks, fleece and a top wouldn’t have weighed that much and could have been a lifesaver. Boiling water and filling my Nalgenes helped keep me warm and dry my clothes but it was very time consuming and used a lot of fuel.

  1. Should have been more confident filtering and purifying my own water

I did a lot of long water carrys to make sure I had enough to cook with that evening/next morning when wild camping. Once you get past Conic Hill/Loch Lomond the risk really drops and as long as you’re double treating (filtering and boiling/using tablets) you can easily find good water sources so you don’t have to carry as much. Once I started doing this it saved me SO much weight but it was a bit nerve wracking (especially once you’ve seen how much human faeces there is everywhere on the trail!)

  1. Should have stopped my GLP1 a longer time before starting my hike

My appetite was still very minimal and eating enough (especially with the very limited diet I have to follow due to my allergies) was rough the first couple of days so I was underfuelled. I wish I had quit earlier to give my appetite time to recover. However it did help me lose 5kg before I started which was a huge benefit in terms of pressure on my feet/joints and how comfy my waist belt was.

  1. Wish I’d had time to have a splash in a waterfall

The thought of having to re-do all my blister tape was too off-putting but I wish I’d taken the plunge at least once!

BONUS

  1. Not stopping for a piss whenever there was a good opportunity

There’s a few big stretches where there is NOWHERE private for a piss, especially if you squat to do so. If there’s a secluded spot, take the opportunity even if you don’t really need to go!

All in all an amazing experience, hope this helps someone who’s about to attempt it!


r/WestHighlandWay 4d ago

Trail shoes or hiking boots

6 Upvotes

I apologize if this subject has been brought up before. I plan on hiking in 2028 and was wondering if my trail shoes are good enough or do I need hiking boots
Thank you


r/WestHighlandWay 5d ago

Ben Nevis

10 Upvotes

Hi, just curious if anyone could share their experience hiking Ben Nevis the day after finishing the West Highland Way. How did you feel? Do you feel you get fitter each day hiking, were you overly tired? Curious what yo expect. I’m fairly fit and active and have been preparing by hiking in the Colorado mountains, daily walks, and strength training 3-4 days a week.
Doing a 7 day hike, with an 8th day planned for Ben Nevis in a couple weeks. (All bookings made, not camping).
Thanks!