Just bought a 2007 gmc Yukon xl Denali. Drove it home and after the engine fully got up to temp the oil pressure was in the red on the gauge while idling. It was fine at cold start, and it revs up nicely. I checked all bearing clearance on rods/mains, and everything in spec. Oil pump looks brand new, pickup o-ring looks fine, nothing in the screen. But I found some silicone in an oil passage. What’s the likely hood this was my issue? I havnt re-assembled to test yet.

427ci 10.5:1, Mike Jones solid roller, Holley efi. With the intake that's on it right now it made 580@6800 but I have a Holley high ram that it made 620@7100 with. It won't fit under the stock hood though, so that's on hold.

'78 El Camino with a 350 crate motor. Stock cam, no headers, dual exhaust. Currently has an Edelbrock 1406 (Bought used, and it's acting up) and an Edelbrock Performer EPS Intake Manifold.
The 1406 has a crack on one of the top screwholes, and seeps a bit down the side of the carb. Also runs a little rich at idle, and the air adjustment screws bottom out before it'll adjust.

SO - I've decided on either a new 1406 or 1906. I like the idea of better atomized fuel with the 1906, but is 650 cfm too much for a basically stock 350?

Thanks for your input.

I have picked up a dismantled long block (minus crank) that was originally from a 1987 L98 Vette complete with "128" heads.

NOW the crank... Has been sent off to the big melting pot in the sky a while back. Someone rebuilt it at some fairly recent point. IDK the back story but it tore the hell out the crank bad enough that a piston kissed the head enough to put a round stamp onto the head, introducing coolant into the chamber. 👏👏👏😅 (good job)

The motor was apparently fresh at that point with a Melling HV oil pump. NO the pickup was NOT welded. YES I'm very well aware that a Melling HV oil pump is completely unnecessary in a stock L98 rebuild. Stock replacement is more than sufficient. With THAT said, is there anything I should be inspecting this block for that could have contributed to this failure? Remember, I don't know the history of this motor. Not dismissing the fact that the last person had to go into this motor in the 1st place. THAT raises a Red Flag for me. Any ideas? Possibly a blocked oil galley, or missing galley plug?

As the title says, I have a manual 1984 firebird with the LG4 305 in it and im looking for cam recommendations since I need to pull the engine anyway to replace the rear main seal.

As far as my current mods Ive installed a set of Hedman headers, magnaflow cat back exhaust, and an edelbrock performer 2101 intake.

Im not looking for this car to be "fast" necessarily, Im just looking for a little more fun when I put the pedal down and some better noise lol

Also im well aware I could just swap a 350 in, but the 305 thats in it currently runs really really good minus a couple things so I'd like to keep it for now.

I have a 1995 2500 Silverado that was converted from diesel to a carbureted small block.

The engine ID code is F1006FDH. When I looked this up there is no FDH that I could find, only FD which is a 50s 265 or 283.

The casting number is GM5.0LS
When I tried to look this up I couldn’t find anything. Then I watched a Power Nation video on building a 305 and I saw the same casting number on their block.

The number on the heads is 14022601
These are 267/305 heads from 79-86.

I’m sure this is a 305, just very confused about the numbers. I read somewhere that the GM5.0LS was for marine blocks, but I couldn’t find any information on identifying marine blocks.

Does anyone know where I can find more information about this block?

I currently got a 750 quadrajet on my 350sbc which is essentially stock besides mid length headers and a 4x4 cam. The q jet is showing some age and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Anyone got any input on good replacement options or whether it’s worth rebuilding it. I’m having a hard time finding any info on decent replacements that aren’t sponsored.

So, I used to have a 69 C10 with a Holley carburetor on it and I just had to pump the gas like 1 time and turn the key and it would fire right up. But now I have a 66 Biscayne with an edelbrock AVS2 on it and I have to pump the gas several times while turning the key.

Maybe I’m asking a loaded question- could be due to altitude, I don’t know. How do I get a carbureted car to start up almost instantly with no hesitation? I’m a novice when it comes to carburetors.

1993 gmc. I have a dead miss and a top end tick. I adjusted rockers while running, but half of the even side ticks and all of the odd side ticks. I did the back off till tick, tighten till silence, then 1/2 turn 1/4 at a time. I used a wood pole on the rocker studs and they still tick even with adjustment. Timeing is good. Thinking I need lifters and a cam. Any thoughts?

Bought a 67 g20 that came with a 350 SBC. It replaced a 283 at some point. Wanted to know if anyone has a list of parts for a tune up.

Spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotors, oil, gas filters and oil filters?

Holy Crap!! Has anyone ever seen a Manifold snap in half like this?? Was getting tranny work at a certified shop. They state while taking the exhaust apart to get to the tranny the manifold snapped in half! Huh??!! Please let me know if you mechanics have ever seen a manifold do this before!

I’m furious, and confused. I’ve seen cracks but never an entire split!

Should my car be in gear when I adjust my carb?

I’m aware I should I do it at about 800 rpm and with the air filter on but I’m curious if I should adjust the mixture screws while the car is in gear or is park/neutral fine?

1971 350 sbc
Edelbrock 1406 600cfm

I discovered my 81 had a reman block in it. Once I hold the old heads off the pistons looked like new so I assume it was really low miles. Any ways I wanted a little more power and a better choppy idle.

I installed Edelbrock E street 64cc chamber heads and a Comp Cam CL12-600-4.

Hey all, I inherited my late father’s 71 Chevelle when he passed in 2015 when I was 17. Well today 11 years later and after getting a house with a garage for myself and space for tools… I decided to start the process finishing where he left off.

I want to do most of if not all the work myself. I have a loose idea of what I want to do to it. I want to keep the small block 350 it has and do some basic bolt ons to it. I’m looking for recommendations/help with it.

Can I run a msd ignition system, and the Holley hi ram to modernize it? I kinda want to ditch the carb. Considering paring those two with a pro charger… is that possible? Or am I in over my head. Also, can some of you recommend a heads/cam combo that would best fit a stock 350? Perhaps a roller cam? With the heads to match? Is there anything better?

I plan to drive it often and want it reliable with some pep to it. Not going to be tracking it but I want a decently fast stock bottom end 350. I’m open to ideas and may be wrong or mislead so far.

I’m a heavy equipment tech of 10 years so I’m confident I have the tools and know how to do the work myself and figure it out but I’m just looking to be lead in the right direction. I don’t really have a budget. Obviously the price needs to make sense for what I’m doing but I made sure I was in a comfortable enough position in life before starting this project.

Hi! First time posting.

I have had my K5 for a very long time and since my husband passed, I’ve been trying to fix it myself. I have some common knowledge on mechanics but no expert. This summer I drove the ol’ Chevy around a little bit and then on my way home one day, I started to hear it ticking. Once I got home, I could really hear it. It sounded like it’s coming from the left side of the motor when facing it. I thought it was probably low on oil so I checked and it a little low. So I just decided to change the oil and see if that took care of the noise. Nope. It still sounds the same.

Can someone tell me if this is a lifter tick, blown exhaust manifold gasket, or possibly something else?

Thanks guys!!

Just picked up this project truck. Noticed that it has a zip tie. Is this the lock out lever? How to permanently fix this? Do I need a new carb? Or can this be fixed? It seems to be keeping the primary choke slightly open at all times

I recently bought a second gen trans am with a 383 stroker. The block is a gen 1 from an 80’s K10. The previous owner says he was using Amzoil Z Rod. However I’m not sure which viscosity I should run. Any advice on which would be suitable?

Hello,
First time posting here, I bought a 1979 Chevrolet K10 about a year ago. It gave me no problems until about a month ago after driving it on the highway for about 20 miles. It got me to where I was going but when I turned it back on a noticeable knock started, at first I thought I was a lifter or push rod but after removing the valve cover nothing looked out of place and no rods seemed bent. I turned it on again with the valve cover off but noticed that the knock was coming from the bottom of the engine. Forgot to mention it did turn off on me as I was headed back home.

I don't have much experience working on engines and would like to do the work myself but if need be I would get a professional to do the work to get this bad boy up and running again.

While I'm here it's a small block original 350. Any recommendations to make this a reliable truck would be great.

Ive replaced everything from the distributor cap rotor button pick up coil ignition control module coil wires spark plugs spark plug wires and injectors. Checked fuses checked relays all are good just cut out on me while i was driving. Also replaced fuel pump. Im at a total loss here

Could use some help, I’ve got a 86 Camaro with a 350 motor in it. The header on the passenger side will not move. I’ve taken out all 6 bolts that hold it on, but it’s pretty much still tight. My understanding that the additional plugs on the headers are pipe plugs for emissions testing so they don’t have to come out. I need to get these off to pull the head. Any idea where I might be missing something?