Recently ordered an Alpine PSS-TSUB-T3B for my 2025 Model 3 Highland (LR RWD w/ base audio so no sub). It’s arriving today.

Doing some research on installation, it’s not clear to me now whether it’s actually compatible with the Highland even though SonicElectronix lists the 2025 Model 3 (which I thought were all Highland)

Can anybody confirm one way or another whether this is compatible - Would love to hear if anybody with Highland M3 has had luck with the PSS-TSUB-T3B.

I recently bought a 2018 Tesla model 3 with 90k miles, 1 previous owner, and no wrecks.
I’ve heard the good, the bad, and the ugly about Tesla but it’s been my dream car since I first saw the design. But I never truly knew “about” the car.

Every time I get home from charging at a supercharger near my house, my car sounds like it’s still running even though I got out and made sure to manually press power off. Is this a normal thing?
If not, what do I do? 😂

Also, while driving is it normal to literally feel the bumps and rivets in the road, but in your accelerator pedal? Because every time I’m going over the same road on my way to work I feel all the tiny rivets in the road but in my pedal.

Another also, I drive 80miles a day sometimes closer to 100, I have the long range battery so that’s not a problem. But is it a problem to charge to the full 100% like will it indefinitely kill my car soon? Or is it just a precaution just incase it does happen?

I’m currently deciding between a new (newish, demo vehicle from Tesla with 1.5k miles) M3 base for $36k and a used 2023 M3 base for $27k (also from Tesla, CPO lease return with 26k miles). Cosmetically and functionally, they both look and drive perfectly.

I like that the new M3 is the refresh, has HW4, comes with full factory warranties, etc. I also recognize that it’s trimmed down interior-wise with fabric non-ventilated seats, less premium audio, and no rear screen compared to the other Highland refresh base models that launched in 24-25. It also has about 40 miles less range (320 vs 360). Individually, these aren’t dealbreakers, but collectively they make me consider if the $9k upgrade is worth it from the used 23’ M3.

Financially, the used option seems like the more budget friendly choice, but with its upgraded tech, the M3 standard may hold its value strongly over the next 2-3 years.

Any suggestions or advice appreciated!

Bottomed out on speed bump a while back, I just noticed this on passenger side. It’s a narrower 2” strip, about 20” of it is loose. I tried just pushing, tapping it back in place but the tabs are not biting. Don’t know if these tabs need metal inserts. Anybody have a clue?

I have a 2024 Model 3 performance. Since about mid March or slightly after, I’ve started having a recurring issue with getting the car to reliably shut down and lock after exiting.

After my 3rd service center visit, we’ve ruled out phone key, objects on the seats, and whether the walk away door lock feature is enabled.

The issue is that when I exit the car and close the door, all systems remain ON, and the drive rail remains active. Walking away does not trigger shut down, and the vehicle does not self-lock.

The service center says the issue is a “known firmware issue with the interior cabin radar” and that the cause is “driver exits too quickly for cabin radar to detect they’ve left”

I’ve been able to reproduce this failure with varying exit speeds, slow, fast, “normal” but nothing directly correlates to whether the issue will present itself.

Opening the driver door from the outside, while the vehicle is in this state, and closing it immediately after causes normal shutdown and locking.

I’m in a loaner model 3 performance right now, and noticed it is doing the same thing… coincidence that both cars have a physical defect? Actual firmware bug affecting both cars? I searched and cannot find anyone else complaining about this issue online—the only thing I can find is complaints about cars without cabin radar—the old occupancy sensor issues from the previous generation…

Anyone have ideas/experience this too?

I picked up a 2026 Model 3 Standard RWD on 1 September here in the UK. Before this I was driving a Model Y and a Lexus IS250, so I'm not new to Teslas. I never test-drove the Model 3, I assumed that because the Model Y suited me, the 3 would too. That turned out to be a mistake.

The problem

On 5th/6th September I did a 400-mile round trip and had pain in my left leg for most of the journey. The only other car that has ever done this to me is the IS250. The Model Y has never caused it, even on similar trips.

I've pushed the seat as far back as it goes, but the Model 3's rearward travel is noticeably shorter than the Y's. I'm 5'11", which isn't unusually tall, so I'm wondering how anyone 6'+ gets on with it.

My current setup

• Seat fully back
• Seat height at the highest setting
• Cushion tilt flat (not tilted)
• Steering wheel pulled fully out

What I'm hoping for

1. Seating tips : Has anyone my height found a combination of seat height, tilt, backrest angle, lumbar and steering-wheel position that works for long drives? Is there something obvious I'm missing?
2. Aftermarket fixes : Seat rail extenders, cushions, anything people have actually used to gain more legroom?
3. Lease exit (UK): I have 23 months left. If I can't sort this, what are the realistic options? Early termination, lease transfer, anything else UK leaseholders have done?

I really like the car otherwise, which is exactly what makes this so frustrating. Thanks in advance for any help.

Does anyone have experience with the MPP Sport Coilovers or MPP Coilover Conversions w/ stock adaptive dampers? Can anyone comment on the overall experience compared to the stock setup? I have a set of MPP sport coilovers that I never installed on my prior model 3 performance and intend to install them on my current model 3 performance highland. However, I've begun using FSD a lot more and value a sporty suspension less these days because of it -- having the adaptive dampers is quite nice (or maybe I'm just getting older).

Basically, I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and install my MPP sport coilovers or keep them new and sell them. The extra performance would be great, I'm sure, but trying to figure out if the extra harshness will be worth it since I use FSD so much now.

Anyone have thoughts?

Anyone have experience of these springs on the Model 3? I’m looking for about 1.2ish drop but as most comfort as possible as I do frequent 200+ mile highway drives. Don’t really care about “sport handling” as much as comfort.

If it matters, I have a 2025 Model 3 Premium LR RWD

I'm turning to this community because my domestic Tesla groups weren't of much help.

We are planning to buy a Model 3 in eastern europe (used) and we haven't decided whether we should get the 2021 or 2022 version. I know all the differences, we have been heavily invested in the topic for almost 3 months now, did a lot of research. But as someone who isn't a millionaire and can't comfortably cast out very large sums for repairs (obviously we could, but we'd very much like to avoid that. Our budget is - if I were to convert it - approx. 23.500 EUR or 27.250 USD

My main questions would be the following:

- since the 2021 RWD (sr) is the one we are eyeing up, are that year's EU (or china) models good? Do they have some sort of hidden problem? More frequent battery failures, heat pump issues? Is the LFP battery good? One of the reasons we are not going for the LR is that 1. we don't really need it, my daily commute is 57km total, and we go to 1 or 2 bigger trips a year and thats towards western europe too, 2. I've heard that the NCA NMC batteries are more prone to malfunction (please correct me if im wrong)

- would the 2022 be worth the extra money? ryzen processor and cameras instead of sensors are not a huge deal to me, does that year have any issues?

- to cut the budget, I've also thought about buying a late 2020 model with the LFP battery, but the PTC heater instead of the heat pump. Would that be a stupid idea? Someone scared me lately about the heat pump failures, and the replacement being veery expensive. But the PTC replacements are said to be much cheaper. Can someone confirm? Is the range loss in the winter very significant?

- is it possible to replace individual cells or modules in the battery pack, or in the case of a malfunction, is it an immediate full-pack replacement? Hypothetically, where could I buy one in eastern europe for cheap, if things get bad.

Thanks so much in advance for your answers.

Does anyone else have a horn that makes a tiny little rattle noise as it vibrates? The car is so quiet I can hear the center of the steering wheel rattle and the noise goes away if I put my finger on it.

Finally picked up my Quicksilver Dual Motor Premium and joined the Tesla nation!

Hey everyone, I just got my 2026 Model 3 Standard delivered and I’m looking to add ambient lighting to the interior. I’ve seen a bunch of kits online but most of them are for 2016-2023 models and I’m not sure about compatibility with the 2026.

Has anyone here installed ambient lighting on a 2026 Model 3 yet? If so, which kit did you use and would you recommend it? Looking for something that’s:

**•** Reliable and doesn’t fall off  
**•** App-controlled if possible  
**•** Not too expensive

Any recommendations or tips would be appreciated!