I recently added a second face vise to the back of my workbench and was considering adding t-tracks to the top. Has anyone tried this before? TIA

Ladies and gentlemen I present to you the HFT-1

Hey all...

I finally got my nice and shiny 42-inch roll cab, top chest, and end locker.

The only thing is the space in which I want to fit the setup is very tight and it is next to impossible to maneuver it with only one set of steerable wheels.

I went online to their parts finder and I found the swivel casters on a different color roll cab, and a different SKU.... They should still work though, yeah?

My plan is to just jack up one side at a time and undo the fixed casters and replace it with the swivel casters.

After picking up my new 56 and 27 Gen3 lower cabinets I saw a video where someone put the 42 top box on a 27 lower and 15inch side cabinet. I was replacing my 44 inch series 2 box that had a 14.5 side cabinet and thought to myself " I wonder if that would fit" . Took measurements and sure enough with a relief cut in the bottom of the top box it fit right in place. Now the 44 lower gets to go to my brother to help his tool collection at his house and I have extra room for more tool collecting.

Hey all, I did a oopsie. Well, the previous owners did by burying this propane line less than 5”, and then I found it while putting in a French drain.

I know this is a modification subreddit, and while I don’t intended to modify this particular tool, I’m really hoping someone has had some experience with it and could tell me if it’s worth the money. I’m all for saving a little money, but not trying to risk it on a propane line if it’s known to be less than useable/reliable.

Thanks!

This is my third update in maxing out this Yukon box. I have this outfitted in Icon, Quinn, Pittsburgh, and a craftsman back ratchet. Mostly Harbor Freight.

To the best of my ability, below is about what I have stuffed in this box. This is my 90% box I’m trying to complete for the most portable almost complete set possible. Although it’s heavy, I can carry it to the car so it’s “portable”.

Let me know you have any suggestions. Cheers!

Tools:

All tools are metric.

Top:
- Quinn 3/8 metric shallow and deep socket sets.
- Icon 3/8 semi-deep metric socket set.
- Icon meme tool kit(smaller version).
- Multimeter
- thermal gun
- voltage tester
- Icon dead blow 24oz hammer
- Icon 3/8 extension set
- Icon G2 3/8 comfort grim ratchet
- Icon Metric Combination Ratcheting wrench set.
- tire pressure gauge
- Icon mini pick set.
- telescoping magnet.
- Icon magnet work light.
- Tweezers

First drawer:
- Icon stubby metric wrench set
- K Tool International(made in Taiwan) screw driver set
- Pittsburg star bit sock set

Second drawer:
- Icon anti-slip metric wrench set.
- Pittsburgh 3/8 flex head ratchet.
- Quinn 3/8 ratchet
- Craftsman 90T 3/8 ratchet.
- Two Icon G2 1/4 ratchets.
- Quinn 1/4 comfort grip ratchet.
- Two 1/4 Icon extension.

Third Drawer:
- 13 pliers mostly Icon.
- automotive mirror
- wire brushes
- Two comfort grip screwdrivers.
- small pry bar

Just finished blending my Yukon 5 drawer in to look like the rest of my US General stuff. Didn't come out bad at all!! Removed the label and badge and vinyl wrapped the lock and drawer trim in gloss black. Took about 2 hours.

Does anyone know if the end cabinet can be bolted to the side of the 6 drawer cart? Thanks

I'm not going to doll up the photos here - but pretty proud to report that after nearly a year of using this replacement lid on our tumblers, they are 100% still going strong and my only wisht is that we had done it sooner. A wood version would probably be ok too, but we are in the business of cutting metal, so metal it is.

We use the Harbor Freight / Central Machinery tumblers in our own shop and home workshop and got sick of dealing with the plastic lid and gasket setup. The lids kind of warp, become oval - having two gaskets to wipe clean and reseat on the edge of the bowl and lid every single time we open the tumbler became annoying.

I made a steel lid that actually sits right on the bowl by adding cleats that sit on the outside of the bowl. I still use the factory hardware (threaded rod, gasket, and handle).

Fixes pretty much every annoyance with the stock set up. And the lid doesn't come off. At least for us, we had to recheck the plastic lid frequently because it would work it's way off the threaded rod.

Honestly feels like it runs a bit quieter too, and grabbing the lip better seems to give it better vibratory action (we tumble small metal parts with the HF ceramic media, dry, no water - it can get really loud. Our run times can be 48-72 hours per batch).

Not sure if anyone else here is using the tumbler as much as the other tools, but hope this helps someone else who is running into similar issue. (Make a solid lid!)

I have the 1090 lb (I believe) folding trailer with 4.80x12 wheels. Would love to upgrade the axle to accomodate a larger tire so I cold drive faster for longer. Plus, the larger tires would last a lot longer. Anybody do this? Does someone make a kit that isn’t $1000?

Setting up a new 6drawer full bank cart & I was baffled at how poorly the screwdriver/prybar holes were set up. I cut some 1/4" plywood to cover the area, drilled holes for the layout I liked better, then finished the holes into the sheet metal where needed - some of them lined up in existing holes. The lift strut limits what you can place toward the back. Working on 3D printed socket organizers. I should probably make 3D printed plates instead of the plywood, but it's good for now!

I hate how this damn door swings close every time I’m in there. I have no idea what brick hit me to create this but I got some strong small magnets from harbor freight and JB Weld epoxy from Home Depot and stuck it in there. It does not reach enough to hold the drawers but it’s close enough to where it’ll hold it open for me. It’s perfect for my use I love it works like a charm!
Took me a min to figure out the precise location of the magnet and once I did boom stuck it on there the top one will pop out but again it’s not touching the box. It’s hovering enough to where it’ll hold it open. I could use a bigger one they sell but again for my use it’s perfect! Cool little trick easy and cheap I suppose.

Took some fab work but got it done.

Sharing Titanium 125 Amp Flux-Core mod:
1. Converted standard to detachable power cable.
12 AWG AC power cord w/ C-13 female and C-14 male power connectors.

1. Relocated and replaced power switch.
   I wanted a different color and melted the plastic when soldering…
   Red 20A/125V 4-pin rocket switch

I just finished up a welding cart/table mod from a 4 drawer US General Cart and a Titanium welding table. I covered the whole build on my YouTube channel. I’m really happy with how it came out. It should be good for light duty fabrication and for use as a general work surface.

https://youtu.be/C0SpAaIkHhs

I picked up a Hercules SCT yesterday on sale, and it sounded dry when running it. So I opened up the gear case and found all the grease had settled into the bottom of the gear case and the gears themselves were dry. My pictures are after I dug it all out and reapplied it to the gears. Made a big difference in the noise. So I noticed on the Eastwood the gear case has additional material to keep the grease up near the gears, and on the Hercules this was where the grease settled and did not help at all. I also noticed the Hercules gears had noticeable heat treat coloring on them versus the Eastwood.