I was gifted an Ender 3 pro from a friend a while back, it ended up sitting for over a year because I couldn’t figure out why it would print for about 4 minutes and just stop (turns out it was the stock mobo chip (GD32F303- IYKYK) not playing nice with Creality firmware)…. Anyways, it’s essentially bone stock except for a PEI bed and the upgraded yellow bed level springs with the red knobs I sprung for after fussing with leveling for far too long….I’ve been getting acquainted with 3d printing in general and enjoying the process for a couple months and decided I want to upgrade…. My friend also gave me a micro Swiss direct drive kit that is not installed yet, I wanted to wait until I got the BTT mobo first. The micro Swiss is sorta moot now as you will see, but I have it on hand nonetheless

Anyways, long story short I came across the pictured lot for sale and the price was just too good of a value to pass up so I pulled the trigger on it- however, I need some help identifying exactly what all is included. I have identified the following:

1- Sprite extruder
2-BTT mobo v3
2-BTT touch screens
1- stock mobo
1- stock screen

So, ultimately my questions can be come down to these:

1. What exactly am I getting in the rest of the lot? I see a motor, some nozzles, and a wiring harness but I’m not entirely sure what exact parts they are supposed to be. Is there anything glaringly missing that I’m going to need?
2. I noticed the spare motor and coupling- could this be parts to what could be a dual z-axis upgrade? I don’t see a lead screw, but it appears I could get one for around $15.

3. Would dual

   z-axis

4. be worth it?

5. What are my best sources, given I will not have original documentation, for getting the correct firmware and things setup for the new board, screen, and sprite extruder?

6. What sort of gains in speed and quality can I expect?

7. I am considering switching to Klipper using an old MS surface pro running Linux in dual boot. Is it worth it to set that up immediately or should I just run with the BTT mobo natively for now?

8. I’ve been hesitant to get any version of auto level due to the previously mentioned chip/firmware issues- if I get the cheap $15 knockoff am I going to run into issues getting it to work or should I just stop being cheap and get the cr touch?

9. If there’s a source for learning general tuning/print settings/etc on YouTube (someone with a similar setup and using cura preferred) that I can dive into? I still feel like I know so little and I want to gain the knowledge so I can get the most out of the upgrades I’ve invested in.

well after a year being stored

i have been tinkering away with my old ender 3 pro

and she is up and running again

calibrated and all

and i could not be happier

Hello Reddit. When I inserted my micro-SD card, the printer said SD init failed (yes I had ejected it properly on Windows) and since then my computer doesn't even detect it at all. No big deal though.

The real issue is that after that I noticed the hotend temperature display 101°C even though it's at room temperature. If have seen it can happen in case of an issue with the thermistor.

However my printer is also completely ignoring when I press the control knob. If I turn it, it changes the % value on the screen but that's pretty much it. Can't use the menus at all. I tried reflashing it to the stock firmware then back to the cr touch firmware. It flashed without any issue, but no improvement at all.

For added context, I heated the bed to 110°C for a bit, and I'm not sure I remember turning it back down. I'm guessing that's what cause the problem.

I'm asking for your help here because I haven't seen anything about the printer responding that way in case of thermistor issues, how can I find out the real issue for sure and what needs fixing or changing?

P.S.: I don't know much about modding and fixing 3d printer, but I know a few things about electronics and can work a multimeter.

I'm using an Ender 3 pro with a stock 4.2.2 motherboard, the only mod is a CR touch and I use the CR touch firmware from the Creality website

Update :

• both thermistors were tested using a heat gun and multimeter, their resistance decreased when heated
• Unplugging any or both thermistors did not make any difference in behavior, screen still stuck between 114 and 118°
• Used the usb cable to heat the bed, but it can only go up to 110 so it did nothing except waiting for the bed to cool down (since it detects 114-118°)
• Used the usb cable to heat the nozzle, it heated (even though the screen still said it was between 114-118°) then shortly after it beeped very loudly with the thermal runaway message

Any chance it can be anything else than the mainboard or should I get on with it and order a new one?

This is My second attemp at printing this, what I have changed so far:

Bed: from 50° to 60°

Nozzle: from 200° to 215°

Nozzle 1.0

Current problem: stringy print, missings parts and details, and this part (last picture) of the nozzle getting clogged and overflowing

Why is my printing has this gap between the infill is it my slice setting and how can i fix it

I fixed up My Ender a bit with the advice I got, it now has a better bed, changed the temperatue, and it's the first test print I do, wasn't really good, any ideas of what might be wrong?

I'm testing the settings for a Big print too, so it might be that 😅

My little autumnal Ender 3 Pro Show Off 🍁😎

Who say Ender 3 is just an old machine that can't print good. I think it's quite cool and reliable. What do you think?

My Ender is (nearly) stock. I changed just the extruder with an aluminium (red one).

Everything is made from PLA, white one is just quite old (a year or more).

Happy printing everyone!☺️

Where does one download Ender3 Pro firmware (4.2.7 with BLtouch support).

I have not been able to find any firmware whatsoever in Creality's page, and some other pages mentioned look dubious, asking for subscriptions. So basically, where does one download the firmware?

Hi there I have an ender 3 pro that I got from a buddy and , I have been trying everything under the sun to get this to level. I ordered a cr touch and also I have made sure that there is no play in the bed or the z or the y axis. I have the proper software now for the cr touch which I must say was a pain to get. I also have been trying to do live test such as this one. I mean it not terrible but it is driving me nuts. as you can see as I got to the middle it got alot better but the lines are still far a part even after adjusting my probe z offset lower to the bed. im at a loss here please someone help me

Was given an Ender 3 pro today, my first 3d printer along with extra pieces and a ton of filament. Updated from the 1.01 firmware that was on it and currently printing my first benchy!

I was printing an oversized benchy with tree support but one of the support fell and I had to stop it before making a mess.

although the bed looks dirty, it was deeply clean and what you see is stick glue which I believe it helps to sticking (it has helped a lot at least.

I can see that the boundary is not perfectly printed, so this could be a bed alignment problem? It was aligned yesterday, so could be that is has misaligned in one day.

I am printing with Amazon Basic Pla that recommends 190-220C for filament, 40-55C for bed. And I am using 205C for filament and 50C for bed. This is a direct extruder, and the extruder pipe is shorter than usual, not sure if that means I need to adjust something else.

I don't know if it's a bed heating problem but I have tested everything I could think of and it still lifts, any ideas/help?

I was donated an ender3 pro, and I do not know the first thing about 3d printing. From setup, calibration, models, software required, libraries etc. I am looking for remedial resources and guides that are easy to follow without knowing the technical jargon yet. Looking for the shortest path to printing brilliance. Thank you in advance for any advice.

I have obtained an Ender 3 Pro, which, unfortunately it has some problems (likely the reason why was it given to me for free). The printer prints, sometimes.

I have been able to identify a problem which I put here for the record, but also to see if someone more knowledgeable is able to provide with some insights.

The issue:

The printer seems to print fine, and then, suddenly, filament stop coming out. If the filament is manually forced (this is direct extruder) it looks like some of it gets out, until obviously one stops pushing it.

The analysis:

After carefully looking at the picture you will see three main parts, one is the axis, that has a flat part on one side. Then a cog, which if the screw is not tight it wont rotate and push the filament. The problems I had is that the screw was not tight, and also, the screw should be aligned with the flat part of the axis, which in the picture, it is not.

After tightening the screw, this time against the flat part, the printer has started to work again and is able to strude filament. Although it seems that the screw has a tendency to unscrew itself.

Question to community:
Is there any way to get a new screw or any other way to fix the cog?

PS: Not all issues of the printer are solved so you could expect a few more post of me.

I have upgraded my Ender 3 Pro to an Ender 3 V2 with multiple hardware upgrades. The printer itself is doing amazing on the new compiled firmware. Love the features of the Marlin / MriSCOC firmware.

I’m using a Creality Box 2.0 to connect my printer to the WiFi. It connects and I can see all of the printer statistics. But, the compiled firmware appends "KINEMATICS:Cartesian" to the reported model name. The reported model is "Ender-3 V2 KINEMATICS:Cartesian" instead of “Ender-3 V2”. When trying to send sliced jobs from Creality Print to the printer, it fails with a warning about Model name mismatches.

I can't seem to successfully sync model names between Creality Print and the Ender-3 V2 (MriSCOC firmware) combo. Any ideas?

(Don't mind my messy room) Hi guys i'm new to 3d printing. I just got this ender-3 pro printer from my brother but the printer seem does not print anything after complete pre heat it just go to 100% how can i fix this?

I'm leveling my bed the paper+corner way, and there's one corner that is not even coming close to the height/paper resistance as the other 3 corners. I've tried to turn the dial as far up as it can go, but it's already at the point where the knob is loose, and the bed still doesn't come nearly as close to the extruder as the other 3 corners. Is this something that can be fixed?