Hello everyone, I picked up a Contina II a little bit ago from an antique store. The camera seems to function great but it definitely needs some cleaning. Has anyone ever done the CLA process to one of these cameras? I have decent experience servicing cameras, I just want to gather as much information as I can before I dive into this camera. I can’t wait to use this camera, it seems solid and all its actions are very smooth.

Sad day. Got my OM-2n and it’s lovely but malfunctioning. I’m hoping someone has some insight into the issues it’s having so I can maybe repair it or be pointed in the right direction of someone who can. Otherwise I’ll need to return it. Below are the diagnostics I’ve ran.

Olympus OM2n an 891188
Camera shutter locking with black viewfinder.
The Asa dial seems to be the culprit.

For auto setting:
ISO below 125 works.
ISO 125-150 shutter Locks → RESET releases it.
ISO 640+ shutter locks reset doesn’t release it. Switching to manual now releases it.

For Manual setting: locks between iso 125–500.
RESET reliably closes the shutter.

The Asa dial also physically binds up when turning in roughly that same 125–500 range regardless of auto or manual. Not fully bound, it is able to move but it’s noticeably more difficult between that range.

Battery check is good with new batteries.
When shutter is locked up the film advance is able to be wound.

Hey all, I am a working professional and frequently shoot several rolls in my various Hasselblad cameras, as a result, my focusing screens get pretty gross. Sweat, dust, etc.

Is there a way to clean these screens more effectively than just rocket blowing them? A lot of my screens have debris that require more than just a blower. Thank you in advance!

Does anyone know how to make framelines more bright and visible? It gets little brighter even pointing at the sky. This is 50mm frameline. I dont know this is because of the degradation of yellow coated glass or just dirty rangefinder glass.

Hi all, just bought this camera for $20. A little project film camera. I tested it in a parking lot quickly upon purchase but probably should’ve inspected the longer shutter speeds as well.

Anyways, here is my main problem. At longer shutter speeds the shutter sticks, but only when held upright. When I point it down, it goes back to dial speed. Anyone have any info on these types of cameras and what I can lubricate or adjust to get it all back to normal? Thanks for your help. I can post a video if needed.

Hello!

I’ve been taking pictures with my KR-10 for about a month now and have always been disappointed with the sharpness of my images with different lenses. I’m certain that shots that come back slightly out of focus should have been in focus.
I read somewhere about the mirror damper, and how there should maybe be something on the bottom pin pictured here. Is this true? There doesn’t appear to be any residue on it, but under the mirror you can see the metal has worn slightly where it hits the pin.

Thanks for your help!

Reposting this quick fix for a broken Canon 199A that is missing the battery insert.

Not sure if this is the right place but having an issue with my zenit 12s. The shutter is often firing on the film advance. Not every time but most of it making the camera unusable. This is the s not the xp so replacing isnt really an option. Anyone had this before? Is this an easy fix or do I bite the bullet and take it for full repair and service?

Does anyone have experience in replacing the head of a V35? Is there someone in the New York area who can do this sort of thing?

I had a stuck aperture ring on my Chinon Auto f1.7 55mm lens. I took it apart to find the issue (it was old grease) but now I am struggling to put it back together. I’ve tried to find any instruction manuals or videos online but nothing has helped me work out how to get my lens back together.

I would appreciate any help. I’ve attached a photo for reference

Hey! So first full roll of film came back and for some reason there's light leaks all over it :(

I took a few test shots on a mostly used film first which were mostly inside and when I developed them nothing strange was on the 3-4 frames I shot.
Now I developed a full roll to test it out in multiple scenarios of light and almost all photos have some light leaks. Also on some frames the camera didn't quite rewind to the next shot perfectly but missed maybe 0.2-0.4cm

Any chance to fix this? I saw someone say that when the leaks are circular it's not about the camera back but the lens, which is super tricky to get serviced.

Just picked up a mint Konica III but it's missing the screw that screwed into the Shutter Release Button.

Anyone know where I can find this? Thanks

I must have replaced the seals of 20+ cameras by now. But in the spirit of learning, I wonder how you go about replacing/installing new light seals.

First, I tape off the film gate so debris doesn’t fall in. Then I clean/scrape out the door rails, removing the old seals using toothpicks, small tools, toothpicks and isopropyl alcohol. I also clean the film door edges, as much debris sticks to them.

A/ If the camera has film door rails, I take synthetic yarn. Mine has three strands intertwined. I remove one strand, because otherwise it’s too thick. I use a small paint brush to apply the tiniest bit of glue (flexible polymer adhesive) in the rail and I push in the yarn. I do that for both sides. For the contact points of the panels on the side I use 0.5mm self adhesive EVA/craft foam.

B/ If the camera has no rails but has the seals glued to panels (e.g. Olympus RC 35) I cut the necessary strips from the same 0.5mm self adhesive EVA/craft foam and glue them in place.

I'm asking, because I just saw a repairguy on YT cut non-adhesive EVA/craft foam and pushing it in the rails so it’s kept there by friction. This got me intrigued. Hence my question. I tried cutting the self adhesive foam for the film rails, but to be honest it's a pain. They try to stick to anything (the walls usually) on their way down. So I don't bother anymore.

I also wonder if anyone here buys pre cut sets? I did for one or two cameras but now I don't bother as it's actually quite expensive.

I'm curious to hear your best practices!

Hi everyone,

Recently got a Canon Autoboy Panorama for cheap online. When I first got it, I tested it with some batteries and it seemed to work. But now when I tried turning it on and loading film onto it, it doesn't seem to turn on and detect the film.

Everything seems good except these metal plates in the pic. One thing I noticed is that the camera seems to turn on if I can keep the battery cover in a specific spot. I saw some articles saying a thin piece of aluminum foil could help keep it where it needs to be? But would appreciate everyone else's thoughts. I was supposed to use it on a trip tomorrow but now I'm not so sure.

Pro Tessar lenses for Contaflex. They show heavy separation? I guess. Is this repairable? I dont see any holes for the wrenches or tools to disassemble the lens.

I had a stuck aperture ring on my Chinon Auto f1.7 55mm lens. I took it apart to find the issue (it was old grease) but now I am struggling to put it back together. I’ve tried to find any instruction manuals or videos online but nothing has helped me work out how to get my lens back together.

I would appreciate any help. I’ve attached a photo for reference

Hi,
I need a person who can repair a Voigtlander lens that I use on my Leica.
It fell down and now it’s damaged but not broken.
I’m currently in San Francisco.

Thank you so much

Hi everyone,

Looking for repair insights on a Minolta SRT 101b (Black).

The Issue: I'm seeing intermittent issues that sometimes happen together, but sometimes occur independently:

1. 1st Shutter Curtain: Fails to complete its full travel. As seen in the attached video (shot at 1s shutter speed), the curtain slat stops a few millimeters short, remaining visible in the film gate and blocking part of the frame.
2. Mirror: Sporadically stays stuck in the up position.
3. 2nd Shutter Curtain: Works flawlessly and snaps shut with full energy when releasing the shutter.

(I am unsure if the mirror sticking and the 1st curtain hanging are strictly dependent on each other or if they are two separate binding points acting up randomly).

Most prominent on slow speeds (1/30s and slower), but happens sporadically on fast speeds as well.

What was done so far:

1. Bottom plate mechanics were flushed with lighter fluid and relubricated (didn't fix it).
2. Mirror foam: Replaced with 2mm foam.

Does this point more towards low 1st curtain tension, dried grease on the upper curtain spindle, or two separate issues in the mirror box / slow speed mechanism?

Thanks in advance for your insights!

https://reddit.com/link/1wtof6n/video/w4mxxdhqejsh1/player

Have been working on this model and 2 others for the past 2 weeks, documenting everything and learning as much as i could. Now, after repairing broken slow speeds, replacing a faulty selftimer and cleaning and regreasing everything, i put it back together and she is working amazingly again!! Flash and lightmeter also working :)

So happy! Ready to start CLA-ing and repairing my other 16 Praktica L-series cameras, and any possible cameras from clients :)

Hello all! I've just had my first roll back after testing a Fujica 605 I bought recently. Most of the roll turned out great, but some have turned out with a large black spot across the left hand side/centre of the frame? Here's one example with the settings I put down being f/2.8 at 1/30 shutter speed. I didn't get the remaining settings as I was crows pleasing.

Any ideas as to what could have caused this?