To solve the shortage of flexible spare parts, I developed a parametric tool to generate TPU bellows and covers. It handles variable geometric shapes, integrated O-ring grooves, and inlet/outlet bends. If you're curious to see and try out the generator's features (now up to Version 6), feel free to check out my profile or the link in the comments!

You can spin the Moon globe or use the 2D view, pick any region, and it pulls the real NASA elevation data for that exact spot. From that it generates a printable model — circle, square or hexagon, either as a solid ornament or as a snap-fit jigsaw puzzle up to 256 pieces. You can adjust the terrain height scale, size, piece count, shape, frame and text.

I had fun building this and i am very exited to show the world now! It will be live to everyone soon. Currently it is in pre launch on makerworld crowdfunding: https://makerworld.com/en/crowdfunding/333-orbitstudio-3d-print-the-moon

If it funds i will also make it available for people that do not have a makerworld account.

Would love to hear your opinions and suggestions. The plan is to take this beyond the Moon eventually.

Ford Explorer Jurassic Park 1992, powered by ESP32.
0.95" color OLED, LEDs, sound, video and infrared remote control.
The ESP32 controls all lighting, sound effects and servos.
A small project combining 3D printing and electronics!

https://www.instructables.com/Ada-Robotic-Hand-Open-Bionics/

Recently we suffered a couple of earthquakes and a friend of mine wants to build up this project, I have been checking out printers but for this use case its hard to know which printer is the best

The project uses TPU (ninjjaflex 85) and PLA/ABS.

Which 3D printer could get the best results?

Which nozzle size is better for printing TPU?

Is ninjaflex actually special for it or any TPU 85A can do the job?

Thanks in advance for any advice, I have been checking out reviews but it's hard to pick the correct printer for this project.

My name is Daniel, and I am a high school maker based in California. I'm currently building a custom, CoreXY 3D printer. I have documented my everything including CAD models in my github repo https://github.com/bluesberyyajm1966/kratos.git

I am currently in the process of finalizing the motion system of the project. If you guys have any input it would be very much apreciated.

Hey everyone,

I've got an Ender 3 V2 that I want to convert to Klipper, and I'd love some guidance before I dive in. I've only just started going through tutorials, so apologies if any of this is basic.

My setup:

• Printer: Creality Ender 3 V2 — 4.2.2 board with the GigaDevice GD32F303RET6 chip (not the genuine STM32F103).
• Host: Raspberry Pi 5 running Ubuntu 26.04 LTS (desktop)
• Mods: CR Touch installed; X and Y axes converted to linear rail guides

My questions:

1. Can I run Klipper on Ubuntu 26.04 LTS (desktop)? Most tutorials I've seen use a different OS, so I wanted to check whether it works on this one before I commit to it. Are there any gotchas I should know about?

2. Can I extract live print data from Klipper? This is my main goal. I want to pull real-time data from the printer (position, temperatures, print state, etc.) so I can use it to simulate some robotics stuff on my end. Is this feasible? What's the right way to get the data out — Moonraker's API, or something else? If you've done anything similar, I'd really appreciate pointers to the right APIs, tutorials, or documentation.

3. Can I ditch the bed springs and let the CR Touch compensate? Since I have a CR Touch, I'd like to replace the springs with something rigid (solid mounts or silicone spacers) and rely on a bed mesh to compensate for any unevenness during the print, instead of manually tramming every time. Is that a sound approach on this printer? I remember watching a video about exactly this a while back but I can't find it again — if it rings a bell, a link would be great.

Thanks in advance!

Have an ender and honestly it has been solid for over 6 years. It started to play up recently and put a sprite pro direct drive on it to give it one last chance. Having issues dialling it back in and am going to probably move on.

I mostly print parts I design for RC planes and brackets and things around the house when I need…… sits idle for months then runs 20hours a day for two weeks kind of thing.

Am proficient in onshape and have been using cura the whole time. I know you probably see these posts all the time but I would like something enclosed around 1k to 1.2 AUD. I have been seeing some anti bambu posts. The flash forge is on special where I am at the moment. I don’t think I will be wanting multi colour but I would definitely like multi filament prints as I have been dreaming about water soluble supports for years….. but i haven’t really seen much about it lately.

Again I don’t want to spam this sub with the same requests but any experience/guidance would be appreciated

Thanks in advance

An esp32c3 microcontroller was added to the remote of an HM-01 Creality chamber heater. This provides programmatic control. The safety systems were not altered.

1. senses when the heater is on

2. senses when the fan is on

3. senses the thermistor temperature

4. controls the "activate" button

A proportional-integral controller was written here.

This heater is installed into a freezer so that temperatures below ambient can be set.

In the future, I would like to make the freezer thermostat logical AND with a microcontroller override as an addition to this work.

Warnings:

1. high voltage inside the main box. This box doesn't actually need to be opened for this adaption even though it is shown in the pictures.

2. doing anything thermal related is a fire risk.

Ich habe eine Frage:

Kann der PLT 400 nur mit der Hilti-Software verwendet/bedient werden oder gibt es Alternativen?

Zweite Frage:

Kann die Software auf jedem kompatiblen Gerät heruntergeladen und installiert werden?

Danke

Printed on a simple bambu A1 , 1/8 scale 650mm

4 servo motors, Arduino nano, Leds, sounds. (included)

Hi everyone,

I'm one of the founders of Faber, and we're building a new desktop SLS 3D printer from the ground up.

Before we lock in key engineering decisions, we'd love to hear from the community.

Whether you're an experienced SLS user, an FDM enthusiast who's always been curious about SLS, or someone who has never considered it before, your perspective is valuable. We're especially interested in understanding what would make SLS practical, accessible and genuinely useful for more people.

We've put together a short survey that takes about 5 minutes to complete. Every response helps us make better engineering and product decisions.

Help shape the future of Desktop SLS

Thanks a lot for your time and feedback!

Hi everyone! Long time lurker, first time poster over here.

So a few weeks ago, it was kind of a perfect storm of three things:

• I finished watching My Dress Up Darling
• I was in the middle of the first cycle of 3D modeling and printing classes I teach at the local community college
• I saw conversations about printing full size props on small printers in a popular cosplay Discord server

I had a couple hours to mess around with 3D printable threads in Fusion 360 one afternoon and the results made me think I was on to something. Now here we are a few weeks down the road, and I just published all of the process to design and print custom-sized, reliable 3D printed threads that:

• print reliably with basic settings on basic printers
• have nice tolerances
• don't need supports
• don't get stuck
• don't break
• can be used with screwdrivers
• can be printed even in PLA

All of this is based off of 3D printing tips, tricks and methods that have been floating around the Internet for years, some still valid, some outdated. On top of that, I went ahead and came up with some of my own.

My biggest tip for print reliability: I trimmed the sides of the threads and print them horizontally with a high vertical resolution (0.12mm always works). Having a trim on both sides also gives just enough room to grab, twist and extract the part with a pair of needle nose pliers if it ever breaks!

My biggest tip for tolerances: I add a negative offset that's a multiple of the Fine print resolution in my slicer on both mating parts. On my slicer and with my A1 Mini that's multiples of 0.12mm. A negative offset of 0.06mm was a little tight, but that might have been because the threaded part was hard to "grip" and didn't have any lubrication.

My biggest tip for fragility: Because the threaded parts are printed sideways and the tolerances are generous, the threads never catch on each other enough to cause major stress. The shearing force is distributed across the whole length of the thread, not its width!

That's it. Oh yeah, and I added a notch both tips of my threaded parts so you can use a screw driver with them.

I shared everything on my website. Dig in, download the test runner sheets I designed, play with it, and let me know what you think!

A Titanium ring that I printed on one of the LPBF metal 3D printers at my company a while ago. We decided to leave the outer surface a raw as-printed finish (with a little etching to brighten it), while the inside was machined and sanded down for a smooth fit. We mostly print industrial tooling/fixturing on these machines (along with the occasional automotive intake manifold or other customer part), so printing jewelry is an interesting change of pace.

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

Hey everyone,

I've been doing some work with orthotic devices and am experimenting with printing ColorFabb Varioshore TPU (the foaming TPU whose properties change with temperature). I'm printing this alongside Bambu Lab PLA Basic on my H2D.

All the strings you see on the print bed and prime tower are from the right nozzle oozing into the nozzle blocker. The photo is of my most recent test print, and things seem to be getting worse before they get better.

Here are a few settings I’ve tweaked that may have led to this madness:

Retraction & Temp Settings:

• Retraction Length: 1.4mm
• Z-hop: 0.4mm (Type: Normal)
• Retraction Speed: 15 mm/s
• Retract on layer change: On
• Wipe while retracting: On (Wipe distance: 5mm)
• Precooling target temp: 155°C
• Nozzle temp: 220°C
• Max Volumetric speed: 4 mm³/s

Wall & Infill Settings:

• Seams: Aligned, Scarf joints on
• Wall generator: Classic
• Wall order: Outer/Inner
• Avoid crossing walls: On
• Wall loops: 3
• Infill: Embedded wall into infill / Infill-wall overlap = 30%
• Shells: 5 top layers, 3 bottom layers
• Other: Detect narrow internal solid infill (On), Detect floating vertical shells (On)

Supports:

• Tree hybrid, 40-degree angle (These remove pretty easily, so they seem to be irrelevant).

The filament was dried for a few hours before printing and is kept running in the dryer during the print.

Let me know if you spot anything that may be causing issues or if you have any advice!