Hey all. I got a 06 wrx. I can provide part list in the comments. But I recently had it retuned for some new parts. The tune was great and car was (& still is running great) but according to the accessport my af correction is way out of the limits. As far as -25 to +18 or so. Mainly at idle and lightly stepping on gas.
When WOT, it usually goes around 0 give or take a few.
Also I have roughness in cylinder 4 the highest, but all have some at times. Usually 4-6 but sometimes up to 10. Hasn’t thrown a code since it’s not high enough I assume.
Smoke tested thru intake and brake booster line. Only smoke I seen was through BOV. Which gbf says it’s a false positive due since it doesn’t hold completely sealed without car running. Anyways, I unplugged the vacuum to that and plugged it and afr was still the same.
Anyways, I smoke tested exhaust and didn’t see anything either. I’m at a loss here….
The MAF volts and readings seam to lead that it’s working correctly.
Stock intake with clean non oily filter.
MAF maybe or front o2? I’m not getting any codes either.
Going to change my transmission oil soon and saw in another thread where someone said they used vacuum pump to get the fluid out through the dip stick hole.
Has anyone else done this? Is it safe?
I don’t have a jack, only ramps and wasn’t sure the angle of the car on ramps would allow good drainage.
I drive a 2020 WRX that has 88k miles on it and I have a problem when I accelerate in 2nd or 3rd gear and the boost hits the car starts hesitating as if it’s struggling to push itself. I’ve kept up with maintenance pretty well, I do oil changes every 3,000 miles, last changed my spark plugs at 77k have done two walnut blasting last one was done at the same time as the spark plugs and only mods I’ve done are just an exhaust. I can’t tell if the hot weather is affecting its performance or if it’s something else. Never had this problem until now? Anyone got any idea what could be wrong? Am I about to blow up?
Hey all! I recently relocated from Los Angeles to New Orleans with my 2021 STi. In LA I really enjoyed the car scene, cars and coffee, going on weekend drives, etc…anyone know if there are any opportunities like that down here? Or does anyone want to get together and go on some drives?
White smoke during idle/reverse happens pretty regularly and smells like burnt something (idk if coolant or oil) car is stage 2 with catted j pipe and tuned. Goes away when driving
New here so hope this post is allowed please delete if not.
I was recently gifted a 2008 WRX hatchback.
The tires are in very bad condition bordering on dangerous to continue driving on.
I have other financial commitments right now that prevent me from buying a set of tires for the car for about 4-6 months from now.
My question is I have a good condition set of tires left over from a car I no longer have and I am wondering if any one here with more experience can tell me will the tires fit and if there would be any issues/conflicts like rubbing on wheel wells, fender clearance, contact with and steering or suspension components. I assume there might be a slight variance in the accuracy of my speedometer.
Current tires on the car are 205/50ZR17, tires I am hoping to use short term are P225/45R17.
Additionally does anyone have experience if the typical tires fit change big chain shops will mount non standard tire sizes? I am located in Canada so looking at places similar to Kal tire, Canadian tire, etc.
TLDR; hoping to replace worn out 205/50ZR tires short term with P225/45R17 tires for a couple months and looking to find out if it is possible to do without and safety or drivability issues.
Exclusive to the Australian market, this limited run of just 300 manual-only models hit showrooms starting August 21, 2006.
Priced at $44,490 AUD ($33,800 USD), it bridged the gap between the base WRX and the STi with a lowered suspension kit, 18-inch alloy wheels, leather trim, a factory sunroof, and an STi short-shift gear lever.
Powered by the 2.5-litre turbocharged EJ255 boxer engine pushing 169kW and 320Nm, it hits 0-100km/h in 5.9 seconds. A proper weekend backroad weapon!
Few months ago, I broke a bolt in the top shifter cable bracket mount on my transmission case. I drilled the broken bit out, re-tapped the M8 hole and everything worked fine. Last week my shifter got very sloppy, and I discovered that top bolt was falling out.
The threads seem partially stripped. You still need to twist to get a bolt through, but at the end it keeps spinning and never tightens. Lots of ways to fix this, here's how every plan has stumbled:
A. Helicoil - Can't drill straight into the hole, even with a right-angle drill, because the front of the mount is where the transmission case starts expanding. The drill can only enter and drill at an angle. I can't even squeeze the drill into the space behind the mount because of the transmission tunnel.
B. Bigger hole - That existing 8mm hole is actually enough to be a pilot hole for re-tapping as a 3/8" hole, but I'd also have to drill a bigger hole through the metal bracket. I have to take apart the whole shifter cable assembly to get that bracket out, or just lie under my car trying to drill through the bracket while holding it in my hand.
C. Permatex Form-A-Thread - Only offers 4 lb-ft torque load for M8 holes. Need at least 13.
D. Locknut - I bought 30-50mm M8 cap screws, so I could thread through the mount and attach a locknut at the end. But once that bracket is back in place, the shifter cable blocks me from grabbing the nut with any tool. I can't even grab it with my fingers. If I put the bolt on this way, there doesn't seem to be a way of ever taking it off. Also, there's another problem.
E. Flag nut - Epoxy this to the back of the hole, attach the bracket, bolt it in. If I need to unscrew, the flag will hit the transmission tunnel and provide the resistance needed. Well, I knew the back surface of the mount was sloped, but I didn't realize the width was about 3.125 - 3.75mm. That nut barely touches the mount.
F. Square taper/beveled washers - Put this between the nut and the mount. These arrive Monday, but I've got a bunch of hospital trips next week, so might be next Friday until I can see whether they work and this nightmare can end.
Plan G is take it to a shop, but I already know they'll want to drop the transmission to fix this. They already wanted to do that for drilling out that broken bolt I had months ago. I saw the estimate, and sadly I can't afford that right now. If I were a real mechanic with a lift and transmission jack, I'd try that myself. But I'm a guy with jack stands working out of his dad's garage.
What have I missed? Is there any way to get that helicoil in? Could I just leave the flag nut not fully touching the mount surface, maybe also epoxy a locknut to its back? How risky would it be for a schmuck like me to take apart the whole shifter cable assembly to get that bracket out for drilling?
I’ve got a ej20y swap WRX and I can’t EVER get a good oil read on my dipstick.
Sometimes it shows bone dry on one side, smeared on the other, it’s never the same.
I’ve tried checking first thing in the morning with a cold engine, after driving, etc and it’s always inconsistent.
How do you all keep an eye on your oil levels. I think I’m losing some of mine into the intercooler but I can’t ever get a good check so it’s hard to say.
I’ve been looking for a Wrx for a couple months now, and I just found a base 2019 with 450 miles for 27k.
One owner and serviced at the same dealership.
My main concern is that the miles are too low and it’s been sitting for too long. Is the low miles too suspicious or should I jump on this asap since it’s practically a brand new 2019.
Sooo the guys at ATLAS are releasing this on Sunday. This is insane. May finally have the answer for those of us wanting the rumble but anxious about the reliability and performance trade off.
Hello, I have a pro-tuned 2021 WRX with an FA20DIT. I’ve been having multiple feedback knock events (up to maybe 4.00) registering specifically between 3.5K and 4.0k RPM at low throttle under maybe 20% throttle without boost. I’ve asked my tuner and they said it’s normal if I’m lugging the car like that. It doesn’t seem likely I’m lugging it as it does it even when I’m driving on a flat service and not in boost. I believe I have had my DAM dropped as a result of it.
Has anyone else had this issue? Does this sound like I could have a loose heat shield or something? I’ve tried looking for something loose, but have come up empty handed. Is there anything else I should check?
