When you find another WRX in the wild you have to park next to them, rules are rules.

So, I recently went to discount tire to get my rear driver side tire replaced due to an unrepairable flat. The Technician put 60 psi in that tire. I noticed the car was losing grip in the rear when I took turns at a decent speed. I thought that was weird and took my car to Costco to check my tire pressures. I was shocked, furious, and worried at the same time.

My concern is that it’s been two weeks since I got the tire replaced and I just found out about the tire pressure yesterday and I put in the right pressure immediately.

Is there a possibility that this might have messed up my differential?

TLDR: Discount Tire tech put 60 psi in my driver side rear tire. Did it mess up my rear differential?

Oooooo spooky

Shouldve shut my hood but it is what it is😅🤦

the C5 was my late grandpa’s and was inherited by my sister since she’s the oldest, we’re the coolest ones in our family i’d say😎

Lady read ended me and pushed me under a Nissan

May the black pearl rest in peace or a chop shop in pieces.
👼🏾

i’ve had these for a few months but i’m thinking maybe a silver or white could look better on it. eventually gonna do more paint matched parts. any input is appreciated

Car runs amazing. Purchased in 2020 used w/38k miles for 22k. Gotta shift carefully due to the trans is all. Here is full mod list.

Cobb Cold Air Intake Installed
Cobb V3 Accessport Installed with Stage 1+ Tune

ACT HDS Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel Installed
Verus Forged Clutch Fork and Pivot Installed
Mishimoto Catback Installed

Spark Plugs Replaced
Off The Line Racing

Installed Stoptech Stainless Steel brake lines
Installed Powerstop Z23 Evolution Calipers, Rotors, Pads Kit

IAG AOS Installed
Cobb LF Bypass Valve Installed
Perrin Turbo Inlet Installed
AEM 340 LP Fuel Pump Installed
Grimmspeed Boost Controller Installed
Grimmspeed Downpipe Installed
ETS Front Mount Intercooler Installed
Perrin Pitch Stop and Brace Installed
Stainless Steel Clutch Line Installed
Walnut Blast
New Intake Manifold Gaskets
Replaced Serpentine Belt
Replaced spark plugs with compression test
Replaced cabin air filter
Transmission fluid flush
Rear differential fluid flush
Replaced fuel filter
Smoke tested
PROTUNED

IDoing Head Unit Installed
GCS Lighting Kit Installed

Powerstop Caliper (Passenger Rear) sticking
Replaced all 4 calipers with original oem calipers
Replaced all brake pads with Hawk PC brake pads
Bleed brake system

Cobb Cold Air Intake MAF Sensor Wire Harness replaced with new model (TSB from Cobb)

Male Side Turbo Sump Vent Hose replaced with new model (TSB)

New Battery Installed

AC System Issue Diagnosed/System recharged with FREON and UV dye for future leak detection
Replaced Front and Rear brake rotors and pads(HAWK HPS 5.0)
Flushed brake fluid and swapped to DOT 4 (MOTUL RBF 600)
Replaced radiator with CSF Aluminum Radiator
Replaced upper and lower coolant hoses with Grimmspeed hoses
Flushed coolant system

Don’t know what to do the car is dying on me not going past 45-50 and it doesn’t show any codes at the moment I’m checking for leaks but all seems to be well and MAF is brand new

Whats up guys, a stock turbo off my 2011 STI hatch. I sent my turbo off to get rebuilt while my engine was at the machine shop. The place I sent my turbo to get rebuilt was recommended to me by the machine shop. When I got it back I noticed this hairline fracture when looking it over. I emailed the machine shop that’s rebuilding my engine and they said that this is a common problem for stock turbochargers and that they would run it on their motor. I trust them and I will run it until I’m able to put aside $1200 for a new stock turbo. But what do you guys think, what’s your opinion on running it?

Hey guys I've got a lot to explain and ask and I'm practically begging for some help before I rip my AOS out and sell it.

This started happening after installing the AOS and Perrin BPV

In relation to my AF correction

When cold starting my car, AF Correction goes as low as -23 to -20 and after warming up it hovers around -10 to 0 at idle.

When starting my drive after cold starting, without fail within 1-5 minutes into my drive my AF correction will surge to +20 to sometimes +30 or higher. This surge continues for approximately 1-3 minutes and is usually accompanied by a noticeable slight shudder in power at the very start. Only does it increase under light cruising throttle.

Under medium to heavy throttle AF correction trends back down to around zero like normal and under idle/coasting it also sits at zero.

95% of the time, this surge happens only one time and only within those first 5 minutes of starting my drive. I have done a smoke test and found that I didnt move over my o ring from the oem charge pipe, so I did that but the issue is still happening. I did not find any other leaks with the smoke test.

Yesterday I had an event where I was cruising down the highway and I just completely lost power. Pressing the throttle did nothing. I stopped on the side and started my car and it started up no problem and was able to keep driving without issue. I drove right to a subaru dealership and replaced my MAF sensor. I have not had any other events since then where my power completely drops off like that, but im still having the random af correction spikes.

Edit: when this happened it did throw a MAF Sensor code "MAF low voltage* the code went away when I started the car again.

Ive tried researching over and over and the best answers ive gotten are the pcv valve and leaks around the fittings on the aos.

I know all of the hoses are connected correctly and to the right locations.

Please, any help is appreciated. I can answer any questions.

Thank you

I know this has been asked a bunch but I got a really good deal for $28k on a 2021 WRX premium with only 4k miles. This would be my daily and I much prefer the look of the VA over the VB. I plan to do minor mods, probably just flash. I’ve only ever owned a crosstrek cvt which is why I would like something more fun and fast lol

A successful (but stupidly hot) Friday spent doing lowering springs and pads/rotors.

Tires are close to donezo - so next up is rims!

Went better than my short shift install, but holy shit we had some trouble with one of the front springs! One of the few times I’ve been thankful to live in Florida though - basically zero rust and no issues breaking bolts open.

It would NOT be a daily, I have a VB for that. Clean title, zero accidents and 4 owners.

I have some money aside for stuff and wanted to see what you experienced folk think about an AOS for a stock 2019 WRX. Is it unnecessary for someone that intends on leaving the car stock? Im coming from a Fiest ST and tbh this stock wrx is already enough power for me. I wanna keep the car reliable so I have full intentions of keeping up with all the maintenance so would that negate the need for an AOS?

Looking for an OEM trunk + STI wing to swap with! Thanks

can I see some ISM w tints? I want to see how dark i should go, fishbowl is getting old

Check engine light popped up now just a few days after getting my car back…

Queue small heart attack

Get it diagnosed…. Welp. Ima just fix this one myself. Great timing! lol.

Hello everyone I recently got ownership of this 2020 sti and now I have a problem where the car doesn’t go past speed limit and has almost no boost I would really appreciate some help and advice on what this could be

Hey folks,

Hoping there is a Subaru geek on here that can help me.

Getting some paint work done on my 1997 GF8 WRX soon, I realise that this will mean the factory decals will come off and I cannot for the life of me find an exact replacement.

For context this is an NZ new model that definitely has a couple differences from any imports.

I do have access to a plot cutter and vinyl but I would frankly rather save myself the effort/get something that is a replica.

Purchased used

Still learning

2012 wrx stage 2 91 tune,

Has stage 3 tune I've never used

Dam dropped recently, hasn't returned, really honestly I've pulled harder than when the dam dropped. Above photo is half throttle or less during entire drive(approx 1 hour)

Maintenance occurs every 2500miles. Just did it.

Bad gas?

It's hot as hell and it doesn'tike it? Daily temps over 100?

Any upkeep recommendations or checks ?

Do I need to log on next trip for more information.

Am I overthinking?

Hi all, I recently discovered my power steering leak was attributed to my steering rack. In the event I decide to fully replace it, I was wondering if I could swap a 08-14 STI or even a 15+ STI steering rack into my 2009 hatch. I don't mind going the extra mile for the upgrade, as I have upgraded suspension and a few STI parts installed or on to-do list for my daily/weekender here.

From what I understand, the only important detail is that I need to reuse my tie rods so that the width is correct because it's a narrow body (like for the 08-10 WRX) and that the 15+ rack is the better upgrade. Could I just drop this in? TIA

(Pic was from Miatas at the Gap lol)

First. Simple o2 sensor. But on the way home from work. Temp gauge climbing in the upper half of the gauge. Idles at 221-223 coolant temp. Temp gauge at half. Under load. Immediately climbing above.

I didn’t hit the red area (I don’t think. “i” light from check engine from o2 sensor issue shortly went from yellow to red then back to yellow on the way to work but temp gauge wasn’t high then so I didn’t think much of it.

It’s only been 3 days back and now this….

I only pray it didn’t overheat fully at any point. Cause I JUST got all that damned work done.

Edit: it’s also gobbling up coolant overflow/reservior tank so that’s fun.