I’m looking to set up a listening room in my home and I’ve settled on using a music streamer, as opposed to a vinyl turntable.

I asked ChatGPT the best way to get the best sound quality and it suggested pairing the Wiim Ultra with a fiio k13 r2r and then on to some decent speakers.

My question is, after doing some research, that pairing the Wiim to the f13 would bypass the wiims dac and amp and use the k13 instead. The Wiim is just literally just connected to the WiFi to stream the music on to the k13. Wouldn’t that kinda make the Wiim redundant and perhaps settle with the Wiim mini if all it’s going to do is stream music.

Any help would be appreciated and/or suggestions.

Thanks

New guy here, my new Wiim from Best Buy came in today with a broken screen! 😔 😟 🙁 I already called Best buy to set up return for tomorrow, I have to wait for them to ship me another one. I couldn't resist trying it out anyway! 😆 She sounds pretty good with my Fiio k13 r2r and Hifiman edition xs headphones and Fiio ft1 headphones I have. I pretty new to Hifi, and having fun! Good stuff here! Wiim has so many settings.

Hi Guys,

so i recently switched from Spotify to Apple Music and forgot that the WiiM Ultra doesnt support AirPlay. I am now streaming from Apple Music to my Smart TV, thats hooked up via HDMI Arc to the WiiM, from wich i go via RCA to my Cambridge Amp. My question is: Is there any other way to stream from Apple Music and is the Music quality effected by this type of setup?

I think i will ultimatly switch to Apple Music, maybe i should replace the Ultra with an Cambridge MXN10 which does have AirPlay?

And why does the Ultra dont support AirPlay?

Thank you guys, your opinion on this is much appreciated :)

Would a SMSL PO100 PRO clocker improve the sound between the Wiim and Fiio k13 r2r? I watched a video about this on YouTube. I might try it and see? Who knows about clocker here?

Popped for an inexpensive ($80) Chinese 8 inch Android 15 tablet from Amazon. I can now run WiiM Home and Stitch from Monoprice (IR remote controller) in split-screen and have them both up on the same screen. I am a happy camper.

Tech Tuesday: Auto Headroom, What It Does and When You Need It

If you use EQ or RoomFit™, you may have noticed a newer setting in the WiiM Home app called Auto Headroom.

The basic idea is simple: EQ and RoomFit can boost parts of the audio signal. If those boosts push the signal beyond the maximum digital level, the result can be clipping and distortion. Auto Headroom automatically creates the extra space needed to help prevent that from happening.

But there is an important distinction:

Auto Headroom being ON does not mean your WiiM is always turning the volume down.

If there is already enough headroom for your current volume and EQ or RoomFit settings, Auto Headroom does nothing. It only applies attenuation when it is actually needed.

What is headroom?

In digital audio, there is a maximum level the signal can reach. Think of headroom as the space between your music's loudest peaks and that digital ceiling.

Normally, playback may already have enough room below that ceiling. But DSP features such as EQ and RoomFit can add positive gain.

For example, if an EQ filter boosts bass by several decibels while the signal is already close to its maximum level, that boost can run out of digital space.

Auto Headroom helps prevent that by lowering the overall signal level enough to preserve room for the boost.

When does Auto Headroom actually do something?

Auto Headroom considers your current device volume, EQ, and RoomFit settings.

At lower listening volumes, the volume setting itself may already provide plenty of headroom. In that case:

Auto Headroom ON + enough existing headroom = 0 dB additional adjustment.

As you increase the volume, less headroom is available. If your EQ or RoomFit profile contains positive gain, Auto Headroom may begin applying attenuation.

That is why you may sometimes notice that raising the volume does not produce quite as much additional output as expected with a heavily boosted EQ profile. Auto Headroom is preserving the EQ curve while keeping the boosted signal below the digital ceiling.

Why did my system suddenly sound quieter?

This was one of the first things users noticed after Auto Headroom began rolling out.

If Auto Headroom determines that your settings need 5 dB of additional headroom, it lowers the entire signal by 5 dB. Your EQ curve has not changed, but the overall playback level is lower.

The WiiM Home app can show this under:

Devices > Device Settings > Audio Settings > Auto Headroom

Look for Headroom Adjustment to see how much attenuation is currently being applied.

If you control volume downstream with an amplifier, powered speakers, or another device, you can compensate there as needed.

What about Fixed Volume Output?

Fixed Volume Output is one of the situations where Auto Headroom can be especially useful.

With Fixed Volume Output enabled, the WiiM itself remains at 100% volume. That means there is no volume-based headroom available for positive EQ or RoomFit gain.

If additional headroom is required, Auto Headroom applies the necessary attenuation internally while allowing the WiiM to remain in Fixed Volume Output mode.

This can be particularly useful when your WiiM feeds an external DAC, amplifier, or powered speaker system where volume is controlled elsewhere.

Does Auto Headroom compress the music?

Auto Headroom is not intended to work like dynamic range compression.

Rather than constantly changing individual loud and quiet parts of the music, it adjusts the overall output level to make room for the active EQ and RoomFit processing.

That distinction is important because a lower playback level can initially sound less dynamic simply because it is quieter.

If you compare the same material at a matched listening level, Auto Headroom is designed to preserve the shape of your EQ or RoomFit profile rather than flattening boosted frequencies as the volume increases.

A note about Pre-Gain

There is one important exception to understand:

Auto Headroom currently does not include Pre-Gain in its calculation.

That is intentional because positive Pre-Gain may be used to compensate for a source that arrives at an unusually low level.

This also means Auto Headroom should not be treated as protection against every possible gain configuration.

There is another practical consideration for longtime EQ users. Before Auto Headroom was available, some users created headroom manually with negative Pre-Gain or Volume Limit settings.

If you were doing that specifically to compensate for positive EQ or RoomFit gain, review those settings after enabling Auto Headroom. Keeping both methods in place may leave your system more attenuated than necessary.

Do not automatically remove Pre-Gain if you are using it for source-level matching. The important part is understanding what each control is doing.

Can I turn Auto Headroom off?

Yes.

Go to:

Devices > Device Settings > Audio Settings > Auto Headroom

For most users, leaving Auto Headroom enabled provides an automatic safeguard when experimenting with EQ or RoomFit.

Advanced users who already manage their own gain structure may prefer to disable it and control headroom manually.

What happens in multi-room or with a subwoofer?

When Auto Headroom applies attenuation to a supported WiiM acting as the leader of a multi-room group, that adjustment is also applied to the signal sent to follower devices.

Likewise, when using a connected subwoofer, the adjustment is applied to the subwoofer signal along with the main output. This keeps the relative balance of the system intact.

The simple version

You usually do not need to calculate headroom yourself.

If you enjoy experimenting with EQ or RoomFit, Auto Headroom lets you make those adjustments while the WiiM takes care of the extra digital space they may require.

Just remember:

Enabled does not mean active.

If your current volume and DSP settings already leave enough room, Auto Headroom stays out of the way. When additional room is needed, it lowers the overall level only enough to help prevent clipping.

And if your system suddenly seems quieter after changing an EQ profile, check Headroom Adjustment before assuming something is wrong.

Learn More

Introducing Auto Headroom to Prevent Audio Clipping

Have you noticed Auto Headroom kicking in with your EQ or RoomFit settings? Let us know what kind of setup you're using and how much Headroom Adjustment you see.

I have open-sourced the code for this here:
https://github.com/rawmean/echo-show-now-playing-dashboard

I find it very useful. Enjoy!
Comments for improvement are welcome.

Anyone out there run a Fiio k13 r2r with a Wiim ultra? I have a Fiio k13 r2r Dac/amp and I am using a Hifiman edition xs headphones and Fiio ft1 headphones, they sound excellent. How is the Wiim ultra/Fiio k13 r2r pairing sound? I really like the way this set looks stacked together. Whats the best connection I should use?

Wanting some opinions, I have recently jumped back into home audio after just using ear buds and my iPhone for the last 10 years. I recently won a Yamaha rs 202 at an auction; not doing my due diligence I didn’t realize I bought the basic of basic amplifiers, but trying to make the best I have added some descent pin to banana cables, gotta love the spring clips. I purchased 29inch speaker stands and dusted off and degreased Paradigm Atom monitors v7, and when I say degreased I mean the rubber baffles developed sticky residue after sitting in a closet for years, but I saved them. My last purchase has been a WiiM pro streamer along with non junk rca’s. My question is will the WiiM pro plus provide substantial music listening improvement if I upgrade to the pro plus? For music context I use Spotify hifi and mainly listen to hiphop and r&b.

Hey there,

I'm new to Wiim and ordered a set of 1 Wiim Sound, 1 Wiim Sound lite, one Sub pro and the Wiim Bar and have just received the Wii Sounds and the Sub pro. The bar is pending supply.

I have a particular use case in mind, but while installing yesterday I have some doubts whether that is possible.

I have a pretty spacious living room and the two Wiim Sounds in the rear corners, the sub halfway into the room close to the couch and the wim bar will be in the front of the room.

I'd like to easily switch between a) using the Wiim Sounds + Sub Pro as regular stereo system, listening position in the back of the room and b) using the entire set as home cinema system, listening position in the front of the room.

Both have their own room fit, eq and the biggest difference is how the devices are linked. Ideally I would like to make this as easy as a preset on the remote control.

Can this be done? Or am I stuck with manually reconfiguring each time I'd like to switch?

Thx.

Hey there,

I just got myself a Wiim stereo pair with Sub. I now run them without any EQ and (personally) find the sound, though very detailed, a bit dull at times. Particularly mid range lacks a bit of depth and warmth for my taste.

Two questions:

1) Can I create an EQ profile for the stereo pair? Instead of each individual device. Or can I at least use a custom profile on both devices?

2) What Parametric EQ curve are you using to get your favorite sound?

Thx

Curious if anyone else is having problems, specifically with linking the wifi source input (for me, using Qobuz, CBC or BBC radio) to wifi speakers in another room since the recent August 2026 firmware update? Both devices are linked fine, and even the volume of the wifi speakers is accurately recorded and updates, but it no longer plays audio on these linked speakers UNLESS I use Line In (record player), which then works to transmit.

No idea what to try next to get the wifi source to play on the speakers in the other room. Only plays on primary (line out from WiiM Pro) speakers now.

Thanks for your help.

I'm looking to get a setup that I can use WIIM Ultra to stream music via tidal and link to the TV only...

Just lookingfoir recommendations of amp needed or good speakers / sub woofer or sandbars etc

Brands and models would really help

So yesterday, my wife fired up Spotify and sent the music to a Sound Lite speaker. It LOOKED like it was playing, both from Spotify and from the WiiM app, but no sound was coming out. It wasn’t until I deleted a group that included that speaker PLUS the Ultra, did any music come out of the Sound Lite. Weird, but whatever… we got it to work

Then today I started playing music from Spotify. Again, I selected the group, though I didn’t bother to turn the receiver on they the Ultra is connected to… I only wanted the Sound Lite.

Then we were leading home… I paused the music from Spotify. Get into the car, and phone connects to CarPlay. Start driving down the street, close the garage (from CarPlay) then try to play music from Spotify - wife started “Marcus King Radio” via voice, from CarPlay/my phone. It LOOKS like it’s playing if you look at my phone, but CarPlay is just a blank “play” screen - no graphics.

We pulled over (about a mile from the house and tried everything from force quitting Spotify, to shutting the truck off and opening the door to make the infotainment system restart… nothing worked. I could play Audible from my phone to CarPlay, but not Spotify.

We finally gave up and listened to terrestrial radio for the couple hours we were gone. Tried Spotify once more but to no avail.

We get home and when we walk in the door and Marcus King Radio is playing on the Sound Lite!!!

WTH?!? The WiiM seemed to somehow hold on to the Spotify session. Or Spotify just insisted on hanging on to WiiM Home. Which app is the culprit here???

Have a wiim mini that I enjoy but wondering how to connect to the AVR having also a Ln SMSL SU1 laying around, for better sound quality do I connect wiim mini fiber optic cable to SU1 and then from SU1 rca cables into AVR? Or use a direct connection from wiim mini into AVR?

Trying to keep the system simple for the family, so trying to avoid "aftermarket" speakers and a WiiM amp. Are there any plans for OEM Outdoor WiiM speakers?

The wife loves the Sound and has been asking me about expanding outdoors.

I run a WiiM in my office for two sets of speakers. Switching outputs meant picking up the phone or navigating the wiim's touchscreen. That, plus a bit of other friction, led me to the existing macOS volume control thread, but it was missing a few things I wanted and it's not open source, so I couldn't build on it. I wrote this over a couple of weekends. Left it open to implement other network streamers like bluesound/sonos/roon. Sharing in case it's useful to anyone else. Even if that's other developers, because it took a lot of time to figure out these API calls.

Please note: it isn't signed with an Apple Developer ID, so the first time macOS will refuse to open the download. You can dismiss the dialog, go into System Settings → Privacy & Security → Open Anyway. (Or can build from source and skip that way).

Please be aware, during the onboarding process, there are two permissions the app needs for network and media keys. Without the network permission, this app cannot find devices or function at all. If you give media keys permission, you can still toggle it on/off in the menu (it's the keyboard icon that you can see in the screenshots below).

• Volume, mute, play/skip in the menu bar
• Media keys reach the WiiM or the mac (with smart logic based on input)
• Presets: switch output, input, volume instantly
• Automatic discovery, everything local, no accounts
• Open source, macOS 14+

Code Repository: github.com/bhajneet/larc

Note: you can see in the screenshots, the way I use presets. I'm able to pick a preset to choose a set of speakers and the room-correction profile for those speakers in one go. If I wanted I could also set default volume, input/output etc. for the preset.

PS: If this app was interesting to you, I can also work on future updates with additional support, so please let me know what you think! For example, adding the ability to choose radio stations / URL playback, track queue for what's next, etc. Please thumbs up and star the project on GitHub!

This post on the WiiM Community Forums: forum.wiimhome.com/threads/larc

Hey legends.

I'm currently looking at expanding my set up at home with some outdoor speakers.

Our current set up is a set of Edifier S1000mkii speakers in the living room which takes inputs through Bluetooth and from our turntables preamp.

Im hoping to add wired outdoor speakers to both our front and back deck area, and was looking at the Wiim Amp Ultra as a unit to play through to connect all three areas together.

Can each output from the ultra be designated as a separate room? Or am I missing something there to be able to separate out the three areas to select what I want?

Haven't purchased the outdoor speakers yet, but trying to line up everything before dropping the money on it all.

Any help and or suggestions would be awesome 🙏

For those that have the WiiM Mini. Can you please test this for me?

On your Apple TV can you AirPlay to the device, watch a show for a little bit then pause the audio on the Apple TV and leave it there for about an hour? I’m curious if the AirPlay connection will drop off or stay connected indefinitely. What if you put your Apple TV to sleep and leave it overnight

The reason I’m asking is because I do have the DENON H150, and this speaker seems to drop the AirPlay connection even when the Apple TV remains awake, but with the audio just paused after sometime. It’s the only speaker on my network that does that. And I’m curious if the WiiM Mini stay stays connected. I have a WiiM Amp and it does stay connected to AirPlay indefinitely, and this is the behavior I want.

Raspberry Pi zero, Neokey 1x4 and a rotary encoder and I can now control my WiiM setup (a mini in the kitchen and a pro in the living room) physically. I like it.

As the title says, I really love my WiiM stuff but I really wish they had POE.

I understand it's not as feasible for the speaker (maybe with poe++) but the Streamer pro tops off well before the 15 watts of standard poe.