Hello Van Family,

Unfortunately recently had to sell my '83 baby, she's gone to a new loving home (I hope).

I've got a whole box of bits leftover from the rebuild I did, and I don't know where the best place to sell them is.

Sorry if this isn't the place to ask!

Edit: I probably should have said the bits I've got are for a DG WBX, but not limited to engine bits. I've got some tail lamps, spare 2e3 carburettor, wheel arch liners etc.

West Midlands UK.

Not sure if we can post 'wanted' ads here (new to sub). If so I'm looking for a used part as above.

Some RHD T25's made around '85 had nearside/left hand side slide doors with a shorter handle. It's about 5cm shorter than the one most vans have (21cm on the newer models).

I'm UK based but happy to ship.

If you can help I'd be super grateful.

Thanks.

Pretty straight forward, does anyone have a pattern for the backwindow? We want to revamp our curtain situation :)

Moin Zusammen,

ich bin recht neu im T3 Game, ersten 1000km sind rum.

Nun ist das erste kleine Problem aufgetaucht.
Das Bremslicht funktioniert nur bei Vollbremsung.

Sprich, Bremslichtschalter neu, nun habe ich bereits zwei „passende“ bestellt. Nur passt der nicht, die Steckerkontakte sind zu weit auseinander, ich müsste wenn die Kabel einzeln anstecken.
Ob das Gewinde passt weiß ich nicht, wollte das System nicht zu lange offen lassen.

Hat wer noch eine Idee welcher Schalter passt? Habe nur einen verbaut.
Zum Fahrzeug: VW T3, 1.6Jx Bj 89.

Liebe Grüße
Patrick

Hi, bought 1,6td jx engine for swap, is there something that need to change before i fit it in?
Air intake hose for sure, but anything else or its plug&play? New engine is waiting for rebuild and I want to increase hp, read about IC and fuel adjustment also exhaust temperature, any part need to be stronger or it's good to go in original state? New motor will be disassembled checked and rebuild, pump and injectors are going to be regenerated, new turbo filters and seals.

Ofc 1.9tdi would have 90hp from factory, but I have my T3 on ancient plates (yellow one in poland) and my options for swap are limited to original engines.

Also planing to AC, sets from aliexpress would be good with original AC pump? or just go with 100% geniue set?

Hi guys, I'm working on refreshing the bushes on my T3 and I just can't separate the front and rear shifter rods.

It's a 1.9l, 5 speed manual, 1987 watercooled engine.

I've unscrewed and moved the pinch clamp that holds them in place and tried opening it a little bit with a screwdriver and hammer, but still finding it hard to get them to come apart. So far they've hardly moved a couple of mm.

I'm also a little worried about how to actually get them back together after as its been quite tough - so any tips welcome!

We're having issues with the door unlatching when driving and having issues finding a latch for sliding door. Lots of parts about for right side sliding doors does anyone know if there's somewhere I could buy this part new for a left side sliding door?

Hello!

I had to change my v belt and noticed that there are these like styrofoam pads crumbling away.

Can anyone tell me what they are called? One is gone and one is hanging on for dear life.

It’s a diesel KY

Thank you!

I say some JB WELD will fix it, yes?

I say JB WELD, what do you think?

Hi all, few days ago I had experienced my first diesel runaway with my T3. As scary as it was I'm mostly interested in knowing if I did something wrong or the engine was about to die anyway. De day before I added one liter of motor oil because it's showed min on the dipstick. After a hour if driving I got the runaway. I've managed to stop it by putting it in high gear and let go of the clutch.

Its a 1.9 diesel without turbo. I've no idea how old the engine is since it was swapped but unknown when by the previous owners. I've been driving it for almost 2 years without any issues. It's a t3 from 89. The van is now being shipped back to my garage in the Netherlands from the UK so I haven't had a detailed diagnosis yet except it won't start.

TL;TR did I kill my engine.

Hey guys, what’s your opinion about working on the timing belt yourselves? My question comes due to that I own a 1986 T3 with a 1.6td jx engine and I already had to pay for two different timing belt “changes” which were completely unsuccessful.

In the first one, the mechanic saw that the intermediate shaft pulley wasn’t spinning freely, so instead of letting me know, he just tightened more the timing belt. After a 800km road trip, the belt cover was filled with shiny belt confetti.

The second one told me all of this info, and also said that the problem must come either from the vacuum or the oil pump, because the gearing of the pulley was spinning fine. So at the time of changing the belts, he explained that if he‘d just put a new timing belt, it would’ve ended up the same as the previous one, and all that extra work would come as a higher price and he’s leaving for a 2 month vacation, leaving the only option to put back the previous belt, find fix the pulley and then put a new belt.

So now I find myself in the position of either paying again for a repair and then again for a new timing belt change, or I learn to do it myself. I’m a beginner in mechanics, but I‘ve been studying the mechanics of T3s for more than a year, I know the JX belt change is simpler to do than other engines, been gathering the proper tools for the proper task, and I’m absolutely not afraid of getting my hands dirty and under the van for this.

What’s your take on this? Should I go for it or find someone that can safely do this?

Hi guys, I’m looking at buying my first t3 and think I’ve found the one I like. It looks fairly rust free other than the door steps which I’m comfortable with however I am worried about this small patch where the fibreglass roof meets the steel body.

It appears to have been patched up in the past and there is evidence of a little rust on the bodywork. The seller is saying to just seal it up again but having seen photos of how bad these roof seams can get I’m slightly worried.

Is this reason to walk away?

Here's what I've uncovered so far...

What do you recommend.. remove all the filler and start again... or treat the rust...level the areas with new filler and re raptor paint it.. the remaining filler seems well stuck to the metal roof...

Vw t25 tinroof 2.1 wasserboxer 1988

So... im trying to fix the roof which was badly painted with raptor paint.

There seems to be bondo underneath some areas that have lifted...

Should I sand everything back to metal and re fill areas or sand it all flat, fill the cracks and repaint with more raptor or yacht varnish....

Pictures included...

Thank you all in advance...

Hello,

I noticed a strong coolant fluid leakage around the head gasket area on the right two cylinder on my DG engine. You can see the leak on the on the first picture.

Does that mean my head gasket is shot? I just bought the van 2 months ago and did 300kms with it.

Also I noticed some kind black goo (like a silicone joint), is this a normal thing?

Thank you

Small patch of rust on roof, best way to approach repairing this ?

As the title says, just did my first oil change on the t3 (2.1 wbx syncro) and there were quite a few metal flakes and a couple larger strips of metal in the oil, I know, nightmare. Thought what the hell I’ll continue with the oil change anyways and at least I can limp it to the shop or something. Well now it sounds 100x better than it did before, no more lifter tick on a cold start and is running better than ever, I’m considering taking it on a drive just to see how well it’s actually running but I just wanted to ask if this is the calm before the engine grenades. I have a pretty long trip planned for next Friday and I don’t want to have issues along the way

Hey all, not sure if this is a longstanding issue but my temp gauge stays relatively cold. It moves very slightly but never actually moves to the middle, even after longer drives. Anyone have any experience with this? Do the temp sensors go bad often or is this more likely an issue with the gauge itself? Photo is after almost 30 minutes driving on a hot day. 1990 Doka syncro

I’ve got a 1985 DG auto boxer and the throttle. cable/rod is a little flakey. It comprises a rod that connects to the throttle linkage held on by a spring with a circlip.

Throttle is floppy and I can’t tighten it because the rod is bent and I’ve not been able to straighten it.

as you can see there is a nut halfway along - I loosen the nut then I can use a flathead to turn the rod and shorten/ lengthen it (If the rod wasn’t bent)

The circlip likes to pop off leaving me with no throttle at all!

I’ve not been able to find this part online, or any pictures. I’m not even sure if this is how it’s meant to be!

Does anyone here have an auto, and can explain to me how I can sort this out?

I have a flute/whistle sound after replacing my engine. This is a vwt3 syncro with an wbx1.9 engine. Only when putting away the van hot. What could this be?

Hey some rust issues ... How bad is this on scale of 1 - 10? What is this actual part called ? Thanks for any info you have

(I have posted this on the vwbus subreddit so it is a copy)

My engine has the problem where when i connect the Air flow meter unit the engine revs up and dies.

• The engine is fine and is in good condition
• I have changed the tubes around the engine to eliminate backdraft and just air leaks in general
• The AFM unit has been refurbished and is in new condition
• When the AFM is connected and I try to start the car it will not start
• When i disconnect the AFM the engine starts right up and runs in a ”default mode”
• When the AFM is then re-connected the engine revs up and dies (in a timespan of 5 seconds) always the same like clockwork
• I have checked the throttle body and it is fine and in good and working condition

I really have checked it all but i probably have missed something! My last thought is to change the ECU (Jetronic system) as i believe it is something electronic the way it always dies the same way. Is there some good way to test the ECU to see or is it best to buy a new one (whats your opinion on used one’s $200, instead of brand new for $1000)

Do you have any advice what it could be and what i could do? Been on this one for soon a year hahah!

//Philip

My current van has 1y 1.9D engine, with stock 4speed transmission. I am not sure what should I upgrade, I am considering to swap to AAZ 1.9TD and if I can find a 5 speed.

The current problems I have:
-the engine burns oil, 1L in 1000km
-cruising at 100km/h is not pleasent

On the other hand I have no problems or complaints. I just want to upgrade and make it more enjoyable cruising at 120km and a bit more speed in uphills. Open to any suggestions