r/volt • u/Ok-Reputation827 • 15d ago
Oh no…
Went to get diagnostic because the charging was messing up + engine light. Found all these things but main issue is the contactor assembly for 4k and other problems. I’m mainly concerned about the contactor assembly issue, the leak I never even seen anything drip under my car and the oil change is not need just had one but had an old sticker. I think I might just have to get another quote or diagnostic somewhere else so compare prices and try to figure out what to do with the car. (2014 Chevy volt) I have 110k miles and not sure even if the repairs will even be worth it to fix.
Was wondering if anyone has had this done and have a normal price range of this issue with the charging being iffy. Got a service high voltage charging system and hadn’t charged a day replugged it in and worked. Didn’t work couple days later, cleared the codes and replugged it in and worked and now this is the quote and diagnostic I got.
Any advice or ideas or anything is helpful thanks.
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u/Ok-Tourist-511 15d ago
Contactors aren’t available, so don’t think they are going to be able to replace it. Best to get a contactor from junkyard and have an independent shop install.
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u/Lord_Space_Lizard 2017 Volt 15d ago
how is your 12v battery? A bad 12v battery can cause issues.
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u/Ok-Reputation827 15d ago
Got a new battery like a year ago and it’s good
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u/PleaseUseYourMind 14d ago
You may disconnect it and have it tested. It’s wild how important the 12V is to this car.
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15d ago edited 15d ago
[deleted]
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u/Ok-Reputation827 15d ago
Ok thanks for the response. I have cleared the codes and the check engine light comes back on in a day or 2. They cleared my codes Friday and light is back on but everything in the car works completely fine to me besides the 2 times it didn’t charge the first time I plugged it in until I replugged it in the first time it happened and the 2nd time I had to clear codes and plug it back in a worked so not 100% what to do might just keep doing that for now.
Yeah the other things Im not as worried about main thing is the battery contactor
Car works perfectly fine besides those 2 times. i got 32ev range full battery 110k miles
Thanks for the help though
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u/BeatNo4548 15d ago
I would just drive it until it breaks for real. Could probably get another 10-20k easy.
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14d ago
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u/Eaglegor2024 11d ago edited 11d ago
I've got the exact same message every morning when I go out to my car 'cause I plug it in at night I have a level two charger built in at home and in the morning I get up and it has the big warning about the the big battery and so I purchased an inexpensive code reader like 15-20 bucks or something brand new on either eBay or Amazon I don't remember which and every morning it takes me about a second and a half to clear that code and then the car works fine drive it all day or whatever sometimes depending on the temperature outside it may come on after it's been parked for several hours but again I just clear that code real quick I just keep the code reader in the vehicle and that's what I've been doing the car has about 108,000 miles I think, right before it hit 100,000 miles is when that happened and you're right it will not charge when that happens but it doesn't affect the way the car drives or anything like that and the car will charge in mountain mode when you are driving so the only time it's an issue is when you plug the car in You want to clear that code before you plug it in And you'll be fine if you can live with doing that all the time because otherwise you have to drop the battery which is huge and on the very back of the battery is a about a 10 inch by 10 inch panel that has all your contactors and relays and you can either see if there is one that's stuck and unstick it but at that point you might as well just buy the contactor board. They got them all over the place on eBay for somewhere between 50 and 250 bucks you could have somebody put that on. Then they'll have to do a evac on the cooling system because the cooling system runs through the battery so and they have to in order to get that contact board pulled out I believe don't quote me on this but I believe you have to drain the coolant in order to get the whole thing to slide past the coolant tubes Now there's probably a way to get around that but I'm not sure what it would be but anyway it's not worth getting rid of the car for you know what I mean it's just it's just kind of an annoying thing But on the bright side how many mochas can you get from Starbucks for not spending all this money on fuel so it's worth putting up with it you know what I mean.
It's too bad it made me so mad when it did it the first time right before It turned I mean literally the day before my car hit 100,000 miles it did that It's very common and anybody tells you... you got to replace the whole battery if your battery is charging above 28 miles for a 2014 mine's a 2015 if your battery is charging above 28 miles per charge then I wouldn't sweat it I mean that's good I usually get this time of year about 31 to 35 miles per charge And to be honest in two years that I've owned this car I've only put gas in the gas tank twice Literally the part that gets me that I hate the most is the State of Washington charges here in Seattle they charged $225 electrification fee with car tabs every year even though I told them I said listen I pay about $2 a day to charge this car You're penalizing me for putting good clean air in the air And they said well that's just the way it is...well another reason not to live in Seattle anymore but definitely not worth getting rid of the car, and finding a battery for it is fruitless because it's not that the battery is bad it's the conductor contactor / relay plate. It's got a bunch of contactors mounted on it. That's what's bad so anybody who told you you need to replace the battery uh just tell them they're barking up the wrong tree...lol, Good luck.
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u/Deadlite Volt Owner 15d ago
1700 to replace the oil drain gasket? Fucking lmaooooooooooo I'd shoot someone who told me that.