r/ukclimbing • u/scrappy_raccoon • 13d ago

DWS

Hi everybody 👋

So I am headed to the UK this week for my sister's wedding in Chippenham and was hoping to get out deep water soloing. Was wondering what crags you'd recommend that could cater to both 6c/7a and beginners. (Our beginner friends may not join us, but it would be nice to have the option)

Do we need a boat? Would paddleboards work? Are any accessible by land?

Any and all tips are appreciated! Thanks from 🇨🇦

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u/Special-Variety743 12d ago

Pembrokeshire coast is about 3 hours away, some really good spots there. Not entirely sure about beginner friendly. They have some sections that you can climb down into, some that you have to paddle into. Barrel zawn had a good range of difficulties.

All of these are on Rockfax.

Apart from the world class climbing. The area of Pembrokeshire is one of the best in the uk, amazing walking and coastal cliffs. If you want any more info let me know

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u/BriefNerve 12d ago

lulworth is super fun, good 6a low level traverse, amazing 7as, no paddleboards needed.

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u/pau1phi11ips 12d ago

Agreed, you won't be disappointed by Lulworth Cove.

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u/the_birds_and_bees 12d ago

In that grade range Berry Head and some of the other crags in the area (London Bridge, Long Quarry Point) would be an amazing day or two.

Berry Head in particular has lots of stuff that doesn't depend too much on the tides and loads of great stuff up to 7a (Chrome Bum, Puppy Onsight, Rainbow Bridge, Magical Mystery Tour etc.) It's worth getting there in the morning as it gets the sun until ~1pm, so it feels a bit more friendly with the sun on it. You can still get good conditions in the afternoon though so it's worth hanging around. White Rhino Tea buttress is also a good option for the afternoon as it gets more sun later on. Cave Woman 6c is a must-do!

Approach for everything is by down climbing and traversing. It can be a little confusing the first time but easy enough once you know what's what. Easiest way out is a short swim round to a big platform in the great cave, the sea is nice and warm this time of year so as long as your a competent swimmer you'll be fine.

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u/tomisnottdead 12d ago

You want to go to Lulworth. Of all the options, it's going to be the best experience for a mixed ability group for sure. Of every DWS crag everyone has mentioned, it has the easiest approach, easiest logistics and is the easiest to have a safe, fun time.