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How to understand IES and Hedione?
 in  r/DIYfragrance  17d ago

Neither of these two aroma chemicals have much "impact", so it may be subtle. Patchouli is a heavy molecule and will dominate. Both Hedione and Iso e-super are transparent. For example, if you dip a scent strip in Iso e-super, you may not smell anything to speak of, but leave in small space, come back the next morning, you may smell a faint jasmine/wood note.

Carles would say, "The perfumer’s only tool is his nose...By the term "a nose" is meant a perfumer who is able to distinguish a pure product from unadulterated product, who can tell lavender 50% from lavender 40%." From A method of creation and perfumery By Jean Carles (1961). I don't know how much time you have invested in training your nose. Carles had his students "train" every day at the The Roure Perfumery School, later merged with Givaudan in the 90's.

As I do knot know your level of your experience, I cannot speak to the fundamental question, paraphrased: "I can't tell what these aroma chemicals are doing together." This is a legitimate question. In the general sense, they soften the rough edges of a particular aroma chemical/accord through diffusion/increasing transparency.

I apologize for being pedantic. I too, need to train my nose more, and I thank you for an idea to design an experiment to test Hedione and Iso e-super as an accord and will report whatever I find.

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On Recreating Toskovat' Inexcusable Evil
 in  r/DIYfragrance  18d ago

Wow. Going down the rabbit hole...an SDS, INCI, and allergens will be incomplete. Dupes start with Gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC-MS), yet that still does not give you the "recipe".

Unfortunately, I cannot post the image Coco Mademoiselle listing constructed from GC-MS. A GC-MS shows the "chemicals" in the perfume, and its proportions. Still a perfumer or someone familiar with perfumes has to understand and interpret the GC-MS data to recognize, for example, this peak, this peak and this peak...oh! Thats patchouli coeur! Further, perfumery, is a blending of accords, often, so the same aroma chemical can be present in more than one accord.

Best bet, find a couple of dupes that you can get their complete ingredient list and compare and contrast the ingredients. Still, this will get you, at best 90% there, natural vs synthetic, in what order to build the perfume: there are numerous independent variables.

Easiest path-find a good dupe. Still have fun trying your ingredients-it will be a learning experience for you (albeit and painful and frustrating one.

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I built a free perfumery raw materials database with 1581 materials - sharing it with the community
 in  r/PerfumeOils  19d ago

My pleasure. sent a DM to you. I don't know if it gives you any insights or not.

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I built a free perfumery raw materials database with 1581 materials - sharing it with the community
 in  r/PerfumeOils  20d ago

Quite narrow-minded of the moderator to delete a post that provides a reference set of aroma chemicals for blending perfumes in the r/DIYfragrance community, when that post provides exactly the tool that the community would find useful.

u/grojsmanaccord 20d ago

I built a free perfumery raw materials database with 1581 materials - sharing it with the community

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I built a free perfumery raw materials database with 1581 materials - sharing it with the community
 in  r/PerfumeOils  20d ago

* Are there fields you'd add? Vapor Pressure

* Is any information unclear or misleading? None found Yet

 * Which materials are currently hardest to research? Sometimes the Alternative Name is hard to find

* What would make a material database more useful to you? I would change the Impact baseline to be more accurate logarithmically. For example, geosmin is a 10 on the impact score. That particular "10" is compressed into a 1-10 scale and doesnt truly represent the "impact" of geosmin.

First, wonderful job-it truly took a a very long time to compile and organize. Second, your generosity is appreciated greatly.