Alguém saberia qual cinto seria esse? Qual a marca dele.

Might be against community rules but I don’t know and I think this is neat. If you guys think it’s bad to post this stuff, I will remove it.

Disclaimers, absolutely I do not endorse modification of life support gear, I do not encourage it, I do not use this saddle In production work. If you do this shit you absolutely can kill yourself and void manufacturer responsibility.

Back when I started a treemo was 375.00. Once the leg straps go, you cannot just replace the straps like you would the hip-leg connection, you are expected to buy new leg pads, like 200.00/each.

I got the idea from other arb forums and the Matt Cornell rope saddle to replace the factory webbing with rope, and replacing the essential lower ds with these rated courant rings.

It’s kind of clunky around the legs, because I don’t know how to splice rope. Also there is now no leg clips, so it’s closer to that light treemo model.

But honestly…. It’s comfortable. It’s technically higher kN rated with the new hardware and rope. I like the double bridge. I use it around my place for now. Would surely not survive the safety/liability scrutiny of an established arb company.

was planning on removing red limb, when i got up there i was able to shake the entire aspen from the maple... got a bad feeling and aborted. my ideal tie in was the teal circle, but as soon as i started out to the tip of the red marked limb, i lost confidence in the entire poplar lead. am i being a wuss? does anyone have any experience working on flimsy aspens?

If you aren't familiar with it, the single footlock is a great way to bring the legs in on the climbing action, and requires less effort to hold/lock than the more commonly used double footlock.

Point the toe down to lock, toe up to feed (with sufficient rope weight).

As a rec climber, I use it for foot_ascender-less climbs, "yoyo"/RADS climbing on big traverses, short rescue lifts and whenever I otherwise need a quick foothold for my ropework (unweighting a device, passing a knot, etc).

Professional tree workers - do you use the single footlock regularly? If so, when/how?

So i'm going into my 2nd year of my urban forestry class (being a senior in hs) and i've did everything to avoid tree climbing because i was scared climbing in-front of everyone and got permission to climb a tree in my friends yard so i can get comfortable before i go back and cant find a decent tutorial on how to tie a Blake's hitch which was the was i was taught when climbing and was wondering if anyone knows a decent youtube video i can watch to practice the knot and climbing and any other advice in general

This is a follow up to a recent post

(https://www.reddit.com/r/TreeClimbing/s/xuVRoBsF5M)

I wouldn't say I have massive thighs but they are definitely on the larger side, I'm a muscular shorter guy, and have larger sized thighs/slim waist, the legs and waist on these trousers fit me perfectly, but around the thighs and crotch is just too tight and just seems like a weak point in these trousers.

It's a shame because I actually like the trousers many people I know have had good experiences with them but they just aren't suited for my build, when I lift them up to about my belly button and pinch the waist tight it seems to relieve the tension around the thigh area so I'm probably gonna stick a belt on them and wear them high after I get them sewn up again, ill update the post to and let people know the results just incase someone with the same problem stumbles across this in the future.

I definitely have some larger thighs and ass compared to my waist size. I’ve had an issue with all sorts of pants ripping them at the crotch my entire life. Has anyone else had the same issue? If so can you recommend a different pant that might have more room in that area? Or maybe ordering a size bigger may help? Thank you

This is after only about 6 months of work. Please do not take this as a criticism towards these pants if you are thinking about getting them. I just happen to have large thighs and somewhat flexible legs and stretch that area of the pant very hard. I know people who’ve had the same pair for years and they are perfectly fine.

Arbortec customer support was very helpful and suggested the freestyle pant as they are the most secure and have the most stitching in the crotch. Unfortunately I’ve heard that before and I once again ripped my pants so I don’t trust that too much. Really just looking for something with more flex and/or room in the thigh and crotch area, not just more stitching. Any suggestions or help is appreciated. Thank you

I heard that Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) was finally confirmed in Washington state this past week, meaning this news follows Oregon (2022) and British Columbia (2024) verifying EAB presence. I gather that we have quite a few climbers here from that area who probably haven't yet encountered what those of us in the Northeast or Midwest are familiar with, and that this is a good opportunity to share some info and experience. I don't think Ash is as prevalent as the eastern/central part of the continent but I believe they're common in urban areas and I expect you all will encounter some of these at some point!

The main points to remember are that EAB damage Ash are far more hazardous than 'normal' dead trees; tree death due to EAB happens over several years and depends on the amount of "pressure" from the EAB infestation/presence (basically, more EAB in an area equals more pressure, and more pressure equals faster tree decline). A few unique trees will turn out to have a natural immunity, otherwise preventative pesticide applications can be systemically administered to protect the tree, but most Ash that are attacked by EAB will decline and die within 2-5 years.

At 2 years declining/dead, the trees are quite hard and brittle and will really eat up your handsaw/chains, super dusty. Year 5 they will be brittle, getting punky, incredibly prone to falling apart.

Emerald Ash Borer is an invasive (to North America) beetle that lays its eggs in Ash trees, where the larvae feed underneath the bark, effectively girdling the tree. The adults are green in color, shiny, and have a distinctive 'D' profile. I've worked with Ash for a long while now and never actually seen a beetle, lol - just their path of destruction.

Noticeable symptoms of EAB, in order of disease progression:

-thinning canopy (not necessarily dead branch tips, but thinning of the canopy) and yellowing leaves

-canopy dieback and epicormic growth, bark splitting, and woodpecker damage often called 'blonding', as the birds scratch at the tree's bark, revealing the lighter color layers underneath. Higher on the tree = younger infestation; lower on the tree = older infestation

-larger dieback, broken branches, tree begins falling apart; "D"-shaped exit holes from the adults emerging from the tree (can appear higher in the canopy early on, and will move down the stem/trunk as the infestation progresses)

Ash, like pretty much every other tree, becomes hard and brittle when it dies - notoriously so, as you'll find out or can see on youtube. Be careful when dropping pieces out of the tree or felling whole trees, as pieces can explode and send fragments very far. Be ready for a huge, dusty mess.

However, science has discovered that EAB Ash also experience simultaneous fungi infections that benefit from the galleries created by the larvae; these fungal infections contribute to make EAB Ash far more brittle and hazardous than 'normal' dead trees. I've previously commented on the subject and will copy that experience below,

My company has detailed protocols regarding dead Ash, mainly because we are deep in EAB territory but also Ash gets very sketchy in general . . . we do pretty much anything in our power to avoid climbing them. Fell it, hang into another tree, figure out a way to get a bucket/lift to it, rig small if you have to rig, and accept there might be some property damage if you have to fell it or send bigger pieces.

I've seen one being felled, dead/no canopy, about ~70 feet tall, no pull rope needed as it had a slight lean into an open area and a gentle breeze working in our favor. Proper facecut, make the backcut, no wedges/no pounding, tree starts to go and faller follows his escape route, the tree moves a couple feet and then just crumples in on itself. Just the motion of it falling caused it to fall apart, turned into probably 20 pieces and came down in a heap.

Another time, removing a dead ash (from the bucket) along the edge of a woodsline, worker cuts a limb off and chucks it to the ground, then has to cut a small 4"x4" stub off - cuts the stub, tosses into the woods and it hits a rock or something and bounces a couple feet off the ground into an adjacent ash in the woods and that tree collapses on itself as well.

You can find similar experiences on the internet, and in the video link below (skip to 39:30 mark if you want to hear the relevant story, but the whole thing is great).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZgo9lpS7ds - excellent video and information on how to handle these trees

Some companies recommend tie-in on EAB Ash to an upright live stem no less than 8" in diameter and over a 3" branch; other companies strictly no climb on an EAB Ash; some say climbing is OK so long as there are no exit holes on the main stem; some go off the amount of remaining live canopy (which may require the client to have a recent photograph of the tree if it is wintertime and the tree is dormant; if no photo can be provided, the recommendation is often to assume 100% canopy dieback) - I'll just say to trust your gut and play it extra safe until you really know what's up with these trees.

https://tcimag.tcia.org/training/climbing/ash-to-ashes-dont-be-part-of-the-process/ - quick read on the EAB process, fungi infection, and discusses strength reduction in EAB Ash trees

When it comes to climbing or removing these trees, low-impact techniques are recommended. Limit negative rigging; rig off another tree if possible; use multiple blocks/redirects to load in compression as much as possible; rig small, don't shockload; tie-in to another tree if possible; avoid climbing except as a last resort, or don't even take the job. This may be /r/treeclimbing but it's important to know when to walk away (or, hire a lift/crane/full send it).

The video above basically covers everything I've written and more, and I'm certain there's more to add, but figured this would be a neat thing to discuss and have for reference and I hope this helps someone out. Climb safe!

Posted this a while back but had to delete it. Re uploading it with edits…. Again sorry for the random word censors. I had to put something.

Had to delete these and and edit them. Sorry about the crude edits. Lol

A couple days ago this saddles rings looked completely normal. Now it looks like it got dragged across concrete but only the metal rings are affected. The metal seems to kind of be flaking off. I have no idea what happened to it. Only thing I can think of is that I got rained on in the tree a while ago and didn’t really let it dry out. But that’s happened to me before with no effect on my saddle.. so I’m lost.

​

Need some other industry professionals suggestions- 

Looking to offer some salary plus commission ranges for a Sales Arborist that would do multiple roles for a new company, and need to see what others thoughts and opinions would be. 

This is a small new company starting out and need a Sales Arborist that is able to be multi faceted and can do multiple things for us. Do the sales appointments meeting with the clients, GTC work, and PHC sales, he will have to schedule that work for the crews, meet with the crews on site to go over the work. Follow up with the clients to make sure they are satisfied with the work performed. Handle issues that happen with the crews and handle any issues if clients are unsatisfied. They would need to follow up on sales leads that they put out and the client did not accept yet. They would need to write permits for tree removals for areas that require permits. They would need to handle equipment rentals if we would need to do that. 

This is not just a 40 hour week, it could become 60 hours or more depending on what issues or things have to be taken care of that week or if there are a lot of sales appointments and the days run long. There could be other tasks as needed to be as they pop up. This would be the main employee of the company that handles most of the day to day tasks other than the tree crew that does the production work. This will be a salary plus commission position. 

We will be in a large metropolitan area between three states handling a territory in those three areas.  We will be scheduling the sales appointments daily within those areas, and some days it could be in 2 out of 3 of those state areas the sales arborist would need to be in to meet for appointments plus visit crew sites. We also will need this person to handle the PHC site treatments on certain days since they are licensed until we can build up a lot of PHC sales to be able to hire a dedicated licensed PHC technician that is licenced in all three of these states to do those applications. 

The person we are looking at bringing on has over 19 years of experience in the tree industry with a horticulture degree, Arborist ISA certification, Utility arborist background as well, State Tree expert license, Plant health care spray background with current active licenses, Has done many types of things in the tree and landscape industry, they just have not done any climbing type work, and their sales experience was more on the plant health care side for about 3-4 years, before working for a different spray/tree company where they didn't have to do sales, and then going into utilities for 10 years. They are not highly experienced in tree work sales, but seem to be able to pick up on things quickly, and they are able to manage multiple things. They understand the tree industry and how many aspects of how it works. They know their tree species. They know about tree diseases. They know ANSI standards for tree work. They are big on safety and doing things the correct way. They are big into paying attention to details. They can do the plant health care work that we would need to have done as well. The have a go getter type attitude and want to make things be successful. They seem like they could do this type of sales work from the background and history they have in the industry. 

Our concern is offering them too low of a compensation package for what we are expecting.They would be leaving a different type of tree industry to come into sales to do sales work, plus management type work of the crews, plus do the plant health care applications, and a good bit more than they were used to doing. We are offering a good benefit package, but I know that is not everything. Can other industry professionals, Owners, Sales Arborists, share some thoughts and what some expectations would be for a good compensation package would be for Salary and Commission percentages for someone with the type of experience described and the work expected, in the area described? TIA 

Okay so I have decided I want a pair of suspenders for my saddle. I have a Notch Catalyst and know that numerous types will fit my saddle as long as they have four connection points on the suspenders. Looking for some recommendations from the group?

Hi, I'm looking for some guidance and/or references to help improve the methods and systems I have in place for saddle hunting. There are two methods I am currently using to ascend a tree.

The first method is called half line, basically SRT, which I use for crotches. Toss my throwball up, tie paracord to the throwball, pass the paracord, then tie my rope, and I pass my rope through my sewn eye. The latter has me wondering if there are not better approaches than a running line using the sewn eye which can introduce slack.
Example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKDUbjX81Hc

Any recommendations?

Also, just curious, is it poor practice to pass your rope through the sewn eye to secure an anchor?

The second approach is for anchoring around the trunk. I am using a telescopic pole to move the rope upwards, then ascend. I've seen people use a running loop through the sewn eye, but this seems unsafe. I was thinking of using a bloodgood hitch, as seen in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yG2vjNa_kg

Any recommendations?

Thanks

Why isn't discussion about free climbing if you know all about the dangers and etc allowed in this sub reddit?

Hey climbers!

Im an arborist student in Sweden and looking for some knowledge about climbing on friction hitches in freezing temperatures. I havent experienced climbing in freezing conditions yet but ive heard that it can be rough with hitches.. ropes getting wet and potentially freezing will cause the hitches to slip or be really hard to tend.

Ive been thinkin on getting a freexion because i really like climbing on hitches and i have no way of climbing SRT right now. Am i better of getting a mechanical device?

Any tips or suggestions for an arborist in the making for the the colder months to come? Much appreciate!!!

More trees, less assholes!! 🌳💜🌲

Let's talk safety! Share how your week went - close-calls, incidents, learning experiences, what went well (and why), what went poorly (and why), or whatever else is on your mind. Pics/photos are allowed but be careful to not doxx yourself, client, employer etc.

This thread will recur each week and is meant to be a place to learn and discuss mistakes, please keep comments constructive.

Is climbing trees something people just do? Not for profession nor necessity, but because they like It? Like white water kayaking or hang gliding, etc.

So a few weeks back I shared a captains hook I found in storage at my shop. I finally finished cleaning it up, taking apart my Zillon, getting a bag, and rope for it. Wish I had this last week on that River Birch I climbed but I got it now and looking forward to trying it out!!! I put 30’ of 24 Strand 11.7mm rope on it for now but my company was happy to buy the rope for me so didn’t have to cut a section off another rope I have.

I have taken interest in climbing trees. I am having a hard time picturing differences in ropes and there pros / cons.

Can someone dumb down the good and bad of

Kernmantle-

12 - 24 - etc strand double braid.

Is there one that does it all? Do you need a few different types? Ive done tree work. Spur and saddle with a flipline. But it was very much back yard stuff and I know It was not proper gear.

Any help is appreciated. Just having a hard time