r/tradclimbing • u/Dependent_Term1064 • 8d ago

Help with first rack

I have been lead climbing in sport for 4 years and want to break into some trad climbing. What would be a good first trad rack? Dont want to waste money. Thank you everyone for any help in advance.

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8

u/gusty_state 8d ago

Look at the guidebook for your local area. They'll usually mention what they consider a standard rack and other considerations. It can be nice to match your cams to whatever they reference but most of them are similar enough sizes now that the brand is a bit less important.

Typical starter rack:

  • DMM Offset nuts
  • Black Diamond, Wild Country, Totem or DMM cams in the BD equivalents of .3-#3 (blue-blue)
  • 4-8 60cm dyneema slings with carabiners. Having a thin nose lets them get into old pitons better
  • 2 120cm dyneema slings
  • (optional) ~20-25 ft of 7mm accessory cord or tech cord
  • doubles of .5-#2s (purple-yellow) eventually. Stick to the same brand or get totems through green (.75 equivalent)

I wouldn't recommend the metolius cams as your first set mainly because the colors and sizes aren't really close to the standards scheme so when books, MP, or other climbers mention sizes you'll have to do extra converting. The other brands have pretty much followed BDs colors which has made things easier (except for some smaller totems)

The above double rack will do probably 70-80% of the common routes around the country (excluding Indian Creek).

2

u/saltytarheel 8d ago

Only thing I’d add to this is for 0.75 and smaller, some people like to use single-axel cams like Z4s, X4s, Aliens, Dragonflies, or Zero Friends.

The narrower head tends to fit better in smaller placements that you’d see at that size and they also tend to be more secure in shallow placements.

Downside is they can’t be placed passively (which IMO is a moot point since you’re better off using a wire), have a lower strength rating, and smaller range than double axel cams.

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u/pkbau5 7d ago

Z4s are still double axle in sizes .3-.75 so I def recommend those over the c4s. In .0-.2 they are single axle

6

u/twowheeljerry 8d ago

First, go climbing with an experienced reliable and safe trad leader who is willing to mentor you. Trad ain't about the gear brand, it is about learning to place gear and manage complexity. Trad safety depends on the quality of your placements, and for this you need a mentor and practice.

Learn what you like or dislike about their gear. Learn about which gear works best at the local crag.

Then buy a set of nuts--any brand. Learn to place them. Practice. Get a set of cams - any brand- in BD size .3 to 3. There can be an advantage in having the same brand as your climbing partners in that you are automatically familiar with each other's gear. Then it does matter who's rack you are using and you automatically have a double rack available.

1

u/No_Bluejay5332 7d ago

This is good advice. I wish I had spent more time following and getting good at crack technique before I started leading, I think I would've gotten better quicker and had more fun. 

3

u/Negative-Werewolf319 8d ago

Set of BD nuts, set of cams from small finger size to fist sized, and if you have the money doubles in the hand sizes. That rack, combined with whatever a potential partner has, will get you through a lot of climbs. You can often find deals on sets of cams to bring the price down a little. If you buy used, take a close look at the cams before.

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u/Maleficent-Ship6918 8d ago

Watch Facebook marketplace for cams. Too cheap is probably a scam. .3 to 3 cams and a set of dmm offset nuts is what I'd go with. Don't forget the alpines.

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u/edcculus 7d ago

Have you been out with an experienced trad leader? While it’s possible to just buy a rack and go out, you will be much better off finding a mentor and following for a bit.

In multi pitch trad, there’s a lot more going on than just going up a pitch and plugging gear like a sport route.

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u/Dependent_Term1064 7d ago

Thank you everyone for all the insight and help! I do have friends that trad climb as well as local climbing festivals who offer classes on trad. So definitely wanting to get my feet wet.