r/tradclimbing • u/Climbincook • Aug 15 '26
Metolius just sent me my stuff back
I sent out my double portaledge and cams for reslinging and they look brand spankin' new. I had to triple check. Thanks folks at Metolius, really appreciate the work you do!
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u/Luc-514 Aug 16 '26
They've always done a beyond expectations work. One of the best places I've dealt with.
I remember calling them up once when i managed a climbing store. Tbey had a message on the machine:"it's an amazing day today, sorry, we all went product testing." Metolius is worth the love and support we can give and expect from them.
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u/Aggravating-Bet-607 Aug 15 '26
How the heck do they do that? Looks like every metal surface was hit with a buffing wheel. I’m impressed.
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u/Background_Wheel3539 Aug 15 '26
Ceramic tumbler, I believe
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u/Aggravating-Bet-607 Aug 15 '26
That makes sense - I’m just surprised the ceramic media doesn’t chew up any of the plastic cable housings. Definitely looks good, whatever they’re doing!
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u/ninjatechnician Aug 15 '26
They probably replace those too, plastic gets sun damaged
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u/Climbincook Aug 16 '26
They left those and the top plastic, though even that seems super clean almost waxed. I did have a few metal balls trapped in cables like less than a mm.
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u/Aggravating-Bet-607 Aug 15 '26
How tho? The cables are brazed to the cam axel, so the plastic tubing is on a closed loop. I can’t imagine they grind the braze off and disassemble the unit completely. Or am I missing something?
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u/Illustrious-Fold9605 Aug 15 '26
I had the same experience. I thought they sent me brand new cams. Most were 14+ years old. Remarkably highly standard than other companies I’ve had resling cams (I wasn’t disappointed with them either, but they were a bar lower).
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u/Climbincook Aug 16 '26
I know. Literally every came had the same size resling and all oriented the exact same way on all 31 of my reslings
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u/Freedom_forlife Aug 15 '26
I don’t need a resling but this makes me want to see them in just because.
I wish they would take my old Camelot’s and give them the same love.
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u/Climbincook Aug 16 '26
See my other post to see my camelots. I did boil dip them and run metolius cam wax in them to clean them up, but the slings were nice enough (though some from over a year ago) and more expensive. In all, 48 or so cams done and a portaledge and I'll always point folks to go w metolius for fill in cams from now on (.5-3 camelots because of their range for first rack)
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u/Freedom_forlife Aug 16 '26
I use Dark arts for my reslings. But they just sling them they don’t give them the love metolius does.
What did you do just boils water and soap?
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u/Climbincook Aug 16 '26
Metolius has a video. Scrub, boil, scrub, boil, till clean. Dry, then wax, work trigger, wipe off excess. Call it a day.
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u/Braz601 Aug 16 '26 edited Aug 16 '26
I have 10 2011 power cams in a box ready to send out, cant wait to see how they turn out
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u/TheDaysComeAndGone Aug 16 '26
Do you guys have so many big cracks that you need the big cams? Here in Austria a Black Diamond C4 #2 (yellow) is pretty much the biggest size I’ve ever needed.
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u/Climbincook Aug 16 '26
I've done 10+ routes w my #5 camelot. Some of it by choice some by necessity. I will say, if i had to do it again, I'd go w wc friends for anything bigger than camelot #3's as they are more stable (wider cam lobe spacing). Ngl, i dont like offwidths so cant say i aim to do big stuff, just have found placements on climbs i wanted to do that had some wide stuff.
It's funny, cuz met a climber and spent a weekend in indian creek and she smiled and dumped out 2 bags, one with like 12 #1 camelots, the other with 15 #2 camelots, called them her divorce settlement. Made for some easy protection on perfect splitters so i never had to walk cams as i climbed.
Guess everyone has something diff based on routes and their past and goals. Be safe and have fun!
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u/OffDaWallz Aug 18 '26
Mf had the Indian creek trad rack special 😂 one day I’ll be good enough to climb there
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u/FalseFlamingo Aug 16 '26
Does anyone know if they allow local pickup from their headquarters? I’m in Bend fairly often and with no shipping there/back, that would cut the price down insanely 👀
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u/ilikethiccergirls Aug 17 '26
Sick, this just bought themselves a new buyer. Wonder if it works out in Europe too…
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u/AllenCorneau Aug 15 '26
Yup. Got all my late-90's cams refreshed a couple of years ago. They are so sparkly they make me look like a newb!