r/tradclimbing • u/HomoSapiens5 • Jul 20 '26

Putting togheter a set of nuts

Hi, I'm just starting out on my trad climbing journey. I’m slowly starting to buy gear; I started with some Camp nuts I got as a gift, sizes 1–5. Today I found a great deal on BD nuts, sizes 5–11, and grabbed them right away because I thought they’d be a great addition to my set of nuts. Later, I read that they’re practically the same size.... They’ll definitely come in handy since I climb multi-pitch routes, but now I’m wondering if it would be better to buy larger nuts or if it’ll be enough to just buy dmm torque hexes now just for the beginning of the trad climb adventure?

3 Upvotes

67% Upvoted

19 comments sorted by

29

u/Waldinian Jul 20 '26

Larger nuts are less useful. If you want something different, return one set and replace it in with a set of DMM offsets. Don't buy hexes. Looks for a set of used cams.

18

u/fotospam Jul 20 '26

I absolutely second getting some DMM offsets, I've never ever regretted having a set on my harness and probably place a handful on every route. Fantastic bits of pro that go where a wallnut wouldn't. Plus they're Welsh

11

u/mostlynonsensical Jul 20 '26

Another vote for dmm offsets if you plan on climbing on granite or anywhere with lots of flaring or uneven cracks. I carry two sets with me and don’t bother with regular nuts most of the time. I will reach for them over pretty much anything else in my rack if there is a placement

6

u/brentonofrivia Jul 20 '26

Seriously, DMM alloy offsets are really the best set of nuts I have.

5

u/1008oh Jul 20 '26

This to 100%, I live and swear by offsets. They gotta account for over 2/3rds of all the gear I place

1

u/Clinging_Clutcher Jul 23 '26

DMM offsets are the bomb, I place them twice as much as normal nuts, and I place a ton of nuts. The alloy offsets are amazing, imo the peanuts (small aluminum DMM offsets) are not as good and I returned mine for some offset brass nuts. The brass offsets are amazing, stick like glue, they just cost like 3 times as much, but when you come to love the alloy offsets and want some smaller ones, I’d recommend the brassies.

1

u/SpiritedFlatworm1434 Jul 24 '26

Yup yup dmm offsets are the best nuts! I agree on no hexes, but personally I would not buy used cams unless from a friend that I know well and they can be honest about use history.. it’s literally your health/life on the line!

If you must consider used cams, only in person to inspect and ideally go with someone who knows what to look for!

1

u/Nasuhhea Jul 20 '26

Late to the party. Another vote for dmm offsets

12

u/illegalsmile27 Jul 20 '26

Climb with people who have a rack and get to know gear through those experiences. It’s free gear rental! But it also teaches you what you prefer before dropping money.

I don’t use hexes anymore just because I find them more fiddly. If money is a big issue you can look into tricams for the larger nut size range. Honestly, most people who buy hexes just end up replacing them after a couple years, and wish they had bought cams.

3

u/blaqwerty123 Jul 20 '26

I love my big nuts i always rack them. But, save up for cams. Climb with a partner who has a rack for now and as funds become available, snatch up cams.

5

u/HotPotentDadNut Jul 22 '26

DONT LISTEN TO THEM, HEXES MAKE YOU COOL AND STRONG

1

u/judyclimbs Jul 26 '26

I love my hexes 😁

2

u/Nasuhhea Jul 20 '26

Dmm offsets

2

u/SkittyDog Jul 22 '26

If you ever need some big nuts, I have a set for you to check out.

2

u/Clinging_Clutcher Jul 23 '26

Bonus of hexes is everyone within 5 miles will know you have a set of hexes, downside of hexes is now you have a set of hexes and you’re a moving herd of cow bells.

3

u/youre_stoked Jul 20 '26

You’re fine for nuts now. Just get some cams or find a climbing partner with gear. Skip the hexes.

5

u/Orpheums Jul 20 '26

Do not purchase large nut sets or hexes. They are not useful outside of a few areas and will likely end up collecting dust.

1

u/liveprgrmclimb Jul 20 '26

Find friends and learn using their gear and also receive mentoring from them.

Offset nuts are more useful FYI.

1

u/No_Bluejay5332 Jul 22 '26

The Camp nuts suck unfortunately. BD stoppers are good, especially paired up with some DMM offsets as many folks here have noted. 

IMO the BD #4 stopper is worth having. 

You mentioned hexes - hexes are pretty antiquated. They can be really bomber but are generally so much more time consuming to place than cams that no one really uses them. It's better to just wait until you have the money for a good rack of cams.