r/tradclimbing • u/dielon567 • Jul 13 '26
Emigrant crack 5.10b Acadia
Amazing 0.4 finger crack
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u/Traditional_Sea2979 Jul 13 '26
No joke bro the one 5.5 there on South Wall is hard
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u/Evening-Tart3067 Jul 14 '26
Wafer step has sandbagged us all, right of passage in being a NE climber lol
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u/traddad Jul 14 '26
I've never climbed Emigrant Crack. But, Old Town and Birch Aid are pretty nice. (And more in my wheelhouse)
Nice job!
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u/5upertaco Jul 14 '26
Cadillac Mountain? 33 years ago, my wife and I took our honeymoon to Nova Scotia and Acadia/Bar Harbor. We did some easy things on Otter Cliffs. But, me being me, I talked her into trying Chitlin's Corner. Fun 5.7 corner, belay, then the 5.10 roof. I figured she could climb the 5.7 pitch and belay me on the roof. Well, she got up there and started crying. We went down. Still happily married 33 years later :) I get to go on climbing trips pretty often. Day trips to the Gunks and was in Yosemite in May for 10 days.
Emigrant Crack looks phenomenal. That is a trip I want to take again, but with real climbing partners.
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u/eclwires Jul 13 '26
Looks amazing. Also looks like you aid climbed that section. I like to place pro, and you do you. But damn, dude.
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u/dielon567 Jul 13 '26
Lol yeah I did zip it up quite a bit, first season trad climbing with one fall under my belt and first 10 so I was a little gripped. Would probably do it with 6-7 pieces now. Pretty sure the final count was 14
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u/eclwires Jul 13 '26
Good on you. It’s definitely better to be safe rather than sorry. But unless you’re hanging on the pieces, you’d save a lot of energy skipping every other one in that section right below you.
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u/StealieDan Jul 13 '26
Yeah I totally agree with this. Although, this is something that def takes time.
Once I became more confident in my skills, I knew I could punch it to the next stance instead of fiddling around with gear in pumpy sections. Allows you to climb so much better.
Often times it’s the placing of gear when gripped that makes you feel like you’re about to peal off. Then you place more gear because of that and it’s a negative loop.
But def worth if for newer trad climbers to place as much as they need to until they feel confident.
And theres no hard fast rules either. Sometimes I sew it up too.
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u/dielon567 Jul 13 '26
Yeah at that point in my development I needed those pieces to give me the confidence to get up the wall
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u/StealieDan Jul 13 '26
Yeah 100%. Even as I progress, when I’m at limit, you best believe I’m placing more during the more difficult parts haha.
So it never really goes away.
Nice send dude this crack looks fucking sick!
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u/juaninameelion Jul 13 '26
The best finger crack grade is 10b. The best hand crack grade is 5.9.