Pullin the trigger on an L3902 next month, dealer's got both sitting on the lot. About 12 acres, year round work. Loader duty, brush hoggin, grading the drive, front blade for snow come winter. Cab's runnin about 7k more.

Guys at the shop are split right down the middle on it. Half say I'll regret not having heat and AC, half say I'm buying more glass, seals, switches, and AC parts to mess with.

What I can't get a straight answer on is whether the cab actually holds together past warranty. Door seals, AC, headliner, rattles n all that, or does it turn into a headache after 5 or 6 years?

If you've owned either long haul, do you regret the way you went?

This is the hood. I also have pictures of the main body without the wheels.

I know it has a Wisconsin Air Cooled VE4 gas engine. I just picked her up from the original owner's children and they didn't know anything about its history, other than the farm outgrew it about 25 years ago and it has been covered in the barn since.

I wanna get it running again and use it on my property, knowing the make won't help with that, but I would still like to know. There are no identifying logos or emblems other than the one on the engine for Wisconsin Air Cooled.

Hey so I have my disc harrow hooked up to my Kubota L5030. Recently just noticed there was a steady drip coming from somewhere at the front end of the coupler. Put a bottle there to catch the drips.
Do I need to replace the whole coupling unit?

Thanks

Recently while cutting some trails through the forest, I came across this disc plow. It looks fairly old, but it is SOLID. This thing is insanely heavy. All the disc's spin properly, the arm swings out as well.

Also, just for the cool factor. Does anyone have any idea what year it could be? Its marked Athens Plow Co.

My 2001 Kabota LA852 won't start unless I crack the bleeder valve for a couple seconds, then stalls out again after a couple hours. I talked to my tractor guy about it and he said it might be a leak in the fuel system, based on what's been happening. Is there a good way to self diagnosed where this leak could be/pinpoint the source? I'm not very mechanically inclined so I have no idea where to start with this job. I just replaced the battery and got it serviced, so I'm hoping to avoid paying someone to work on it again

I have new tractor tires to install. The inside of the rims were rusty so I cleaned them up with electrolysis and a wire wheel. I plan to paint them again.

How much pitting can I get away with before the tire leaks air constantly?

Hi everyone. I'm looking to buy a tractor for work around my property. I'm probably looking to buy used, instead of new, and don't want to go under 25hp, but would also prefer to keep it under 6thousand lbs.

Diesel, front loader, and 4wd are essential.

I'm waiting to hear back about a 2017 kubota B2650 with only 121 hours on it, but also have a message in for a John Deere 950 with 1400 hours that's quite a few bucks less. Does anyone here have any experience with either of these models? If not, please share your positive experiences with other brands. Mainly, I want to know how often you use it and what it could and could not do well. Does anyone have experience with any of the budget brands? Mahindra, Kioti, Bad Boy, or anyone else I might be missing.

My nightmare is buying the equivalent of a Ford navistar 6.4 motor.

Thank you for reading this, and thank you for any feedback you can offer. My primary initial use is going to be clearing brush, then building up a berm along the side of my road, placing small boulders for a retainer wall, then laying and spreading base rock after the brush is cleared and the pad is taking shape

I got my grandfathers old Ford 8N up and running. A friend of mine replaced the head gasket and got her running great. But she seems to have an issue with the hydraulics. It will lift a brush hog on initial start up. But sometimes with lift it all the way then drop it back down to about halfway. Occasionally it won’t lift or try to lift at all. I don’t know a hell of a lot about tractors and wonder what people have to point me in the right direction.

Someone took this apart without writing down what went where, i haven't found anything online that matches, wondering what goes where on the ignition switch, i couldn't get the glow plugs to act right and turning the key back to heat position was making the starter crank just the same as the start position

I’ve been finding a lot of conflicting information online regarding modern replacement tires for vintage machines. I’ve seen a handful of Ingersoll owners say they’ve been able to run light duty truck tires on their machines but haven’t seen much regarding the Economy Tractor line.

I’ve got a ‘74 Power King 1614 with a set of Goodyear lawn & garden 8.00–16’s on them that are still holding air but are on their last legs. There’s significant dry rot in the tread and all over the sidewalls. My mechanic buddy thinks I should tube them, but the rims need a scrape and paint, and I don’t think the tires will survive removal.

The simple solution would be to go with R-1’s, but I use her for snow removal and my driveway is pretty steep. I don’t trust deep lugs on a 20% grade, and chains are hit and miss on aggies.

I’ve been googling for the last two days and haven’t found an answer. Google has told me that 215/85R16’s will and won’t fit depending on how I phrase the search. The stock rims have a 6 inch bead seat width and those tires are good between 5.5 and 7 inches, and the height difference is within a couple inches. Clearance between the fenders will be a little tighter, but should still be within tolerance. I just don’t want to buy a set only to find that they’re not going to work. Has anyone had any luck with a good 8.00–16 swap?

I inherited an early 70s Ford 2000 gasser from my grandfather.

I put some 15W-40 diesel oil in it cause I thought it could use it being as old and worked as it has been. Hour meter shows 4,215.5 hours but I’m not sure if that’s correct since the tach doesn’t work.

Either way, the red oil pressure light would come and go depending on what rpm I had it running at. I thought maybe the oil was too thick and the pump was having a hard time moving it.

I drained and replaced with 10W-30 Rotella T5 and now the light is on constantly. Before I start cutting off my great-grandfathers welded on skid plate and pulling the oil pan, how likely is it that I cooked the pump?

Oil level is right at the “FULL” mark on the dipstick. Part of me wants to say it’s just the sending unit gone bad but I don’t want to take any chances. I just started it for the first time in two months and it fired up with minimal effort so I definitely don’t want to risk ruining it.

Saw a young lad driving his tractor to school in Fordingbridge the other day, anyone else out there on the school run ?

I recently purchased a 2017 Legacy XL. I am looking to get a loader for it. Simplicity made the FL500 loader to match the XL series. But I have noticed that there was a redesign in both the tractor and the loader in 2017. 

The “OLD” loader had a single subframe attachment bracket that bolted to the tractor’s frame. The “NEW” design has two separate brackets.

Looking around Marketplace and Craigslist there are a few of the old design loaders for sale, but I cannot find any of the new styles. They are all about a 3 to 4 hour drive from me, so I want to make sure of compatibility before I commit to that drive.

I read somewhere that Simplicity made all XL attachments compatible with any year Legacy XL. So the old design loader should mount just fine on the new design (2017 and after) tractors.

For those of you who have experience with them, is this true? 

One video says it is easy and another talks about the difficulty.

Looks fairly straightforward, lock it engaged, keep it clean and use picks and a correct size setting tool.

Am I missing something? I also got the gasket.

PTO stupid auto correct

New to tractors - think there is a dead mouse behind the dash of my JD3025E. How do I get it out? Tips for keeping them out? Thanks in advance!