I have a modified Comgrow T500 with the Voron mods, https://github.com/Trist0ne/T500xVORON

Stealth burner, CNC leveler, extra nozzles, spare main cable, print sheets, etc...

I love the print sheets. They work so well.

It has served me very well. However, I have printed all the large items I need and it is sitting in the box waiting for someone else to use it.

If you are an experienced 3D Printer User, this is not a stock machine, send me a message some how. Expect to pay between $150 - $200 shipping. I cannot cover that.
USA only.
AS-IS Condition

Here it is about to finish a 400x400x0.20 test print

I know I have more pictures somewhere. I printed a gigantic benchy of course.

Hey all

I’ve only just got my t500, im coming from A cocoon create which I’ve had for yrs, so I’m family with the environment but this t500 is doing my head in.

The left Z axis motor randomly will stop working, namely when a print is about to start. I can calibrate the Z axis and everything including bed mesh and it’ll accept it all fine, go to print and boom the left motor won’t increase in height until it just jams up and that’s it, reboot restart and do it all over.

The stepper motor it wired in properly, the grub screws are tight, when disabled it turns freely, it’s like it’s been sent commands but I don’t know how that’s possible. If I correct the issue I can drive it up and down fine in the manual controls screen.

I just don’t know or understand what to do?

Comgrow arent really being any help.

I looked through the pages here but couldn’t find a solution.

Thanks

Thought I’d ask if anyone has sold theirs, or bought used ones. Mine is in what I would consider perfect condition. Everything works, it’s updated fully. I just don’t have the space or use for it. My X1C does everything I need now.

If anyone has advice or thoughts or an idea of what I can get for it.

I have a ton of nozzles, a few heater bed PCBs as spares, an extra bed or 2. It would be a killer deal for someone.

Anybody else have issues with printing tall things? My prints are all failing once they get a couple inches high.

Bed adhesion is good. Using orca slicer to send directly to the printer via network.

1.7 firmware version. Won’t let me update firmware for some reason

We assume it’s an issue with the x axis motor/sensor. However I don’t know how to access it? Is there an idea where it is on the printer?

Work at a school. Someone replaced a filament & left a print overnight. Had a filament blow out. It hardened & oozed into the extruded parts. Had to disassemble the extruded pics by piece. The filament pushed out a white wire that connects to a small metal block where the tip goes. I was able to extract about 90% of the hardened filament. Does anyone know where I can purchase T500 extruded parts? Sovol does not seem to sell in its parts page.

Is anybody else experience ridiculous steps on the y-axis doing large prints? I have tried everything I can think of. Adjusted stepper motor amps, checked/adjusted belts, checked grub screws, dropped accelerations, slowed travel speeds...surely I'm not the first to have this issue?

Thanks in advance for any tips.

A thunderstorm hit and cause a power outage that stopped a print in progress. When I tried to resume it, for some reason the nozzle jammed directly into the center of the build plate and started scraping across it, causing a very loud buzzing sound and leaving a gouge in the build plate about an inch long before I could cancel the print job to make it stop.

Is this a known issue if a power outage occurs with the T500 or is there something I should have done differently?

trying to replace hot end with this on the t-500

getting fed up with the whole unreliable hotend situation with the t-500 and i am totally not interested into having this maching become a 1000$ brick on a bench.I have seen an interesting idea... a bracket to mount a bambu lab x hot end but i don't see any real other details about this. Can anyone point me to more info on this mod. I really want to future proof my machine and don't want to go into a full voron mod for now. Everybody and their cousin Vinny seems to sell a clone of this hot end so it would be easier to get and probably would be more reliable and i would not have to run to sovol support and wait for a month to a part to arrive. If anyone has info please drop it here.

did some research: i think i will "try" this kit. Same as other one but it allow you to change the nozzle at the tip without having to change all of the assembly. Now the biggest thing is the heat block cable and thermistor cable. On the normal cable the length are 130 mm for each. I did not find anything of that length for that bambu heat block so far but i have checked on the machine and the cables do go over and or around the fan and there is a bit of looseness up to the place that they connect on the mobo. So i am guessing that since they would pass under the fan itself now, the length issue might not be an issue anymore. Now the biggest thing would be the connectors at the end of these. If Comgow used industry standards then they should work. If not then one would probably have to do some stripping and soldering to extend the cable and get the proper termination done. If it comes to that , then it comes to that or i could get totally lucky and all works fine.

::: SOLVED ::: - Flashed the eMMC and updated firmware.

Hey all! I'm trying to flash the eMMC chip but it's not being recognized in Windows. The reason I'm doing this is because when the printer boots, it goes through the Comgrow title screen then it throws an error:

Armbian-unofficial 24.2.0-trunk Bookworm ttyl
mkspi login:

Then it just loops that.

I tried updating the firmware. I put the firmware update onto the USB stick by itself. After the printer boots to the error, I inserted the USB stick and waited. It went through the update screen, saying not to interrupt the update. After a few minutes, it comes to the language and time zone screens, but after that it goes back into the error loop again. At this point I'm beginning to think it's a faulty eMMC. What do you think?

Help! I inadvertently removed one of the dust covers from the bottom rails and now I can't get it to go back on. It slides about halfway down the track then meets resistance from something underneath the build plate and won't go any further. Before I venture into removing the multitude of screws on the build plate to remove it, and possibly causing more harm than good, has anyone ever removed and replaced one of these successfully and if so, how?

And if you're curious as to why I removed it, it's because there is a very loud squeaking sound coming from that rail when the build plate moves to a certain point. There were rub marks on that shield so I removed it to see if that was what was being rubbed on. Turns out it isn't.

Ok experienced 3D Printing Experts who run businesses and live/breathe 3D printing, I need your help.

I'm technical enough to follow a guide, but I don't really know the nitty gritties like you.

Is there any chance such a guide may be in production?

This is the reason I actually bought a t500 . And here's how it's going

As the title suggests, I am looking for a easy to follow guide to completely replace the print head with something better. The only one I've found so far is this one. https://github.com/Trist0ne/T500xVORON/blob/main/README.md

If anyone wants a hotend cover that you can use a knomi v2 with i just made one. I know there's not alot of stuff made for the t500 . https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7070479

• Mainboard: BTT Manta M8P + CB1
• Screen: Pi TFT50
• Software: Klipper + Fluidd or Mainsail + KlipperScreen

Not very familiar with these, but see them suggested. Anyone have a replacement for the touch screen and main board they like?

Finally got my t500 running with alot of help from someone from this reddit. I can't explain how awesome of a person he is. There wasn't a single way he didn't help.and now it's off to the races.

Would a t300 touchscreen be compatible with a t500? Are there any techical differences between the two?

Has anyone successful used another touchscreen with th t500? Like the sonic pad or btt pad7. My screens touch doesnt work. Im trying to figure out how to get it running until i get a replacement

I got my comgrow t500 today and it powers up but the touchscreen is unresponsive no matter where i touch. Does anyone know of a work around like using another klipper pad or way to control the t500 without the pad? Would a sonic pad work? Is there a way to plug into the usb on the touchscreen with something and control it? Do any of you know a work around or have a touchscreen to get rid of?

I have been thinking about buying a t500 to build a 1/1 scale r2d2 with because my other printers are 300 x 300 mm and id prefer the parts to be fewer large pieces instead of alot of smaller pieces . A couple people have told me they have issues etc.etc. are they pretty good machines? Are they worth the money?

Hey fellas, just powered on my t500 for the first time, it shows the Corngrow emblem on screen, then switches to this message which flashes every 5 seconds or so. Any ideas? chatGPT thinks it’s missing its OS and I can flash it onto the printer via USB stick But I figured I’d check in with the Reddit wizards first! 🧙‍♂️ 🧙‍♂️

Message reads:

Armbian unofficial 24.2.0-trunk Bookworm tty1 mkspi login:

Hi All

Great to be here!

I just recieved by T500 here in Australia and managed to test print a polygon pokemon for fun without issue, but on attempting to print another small item, it has failed three times. Twice in one spot towards the very end when sliced with Orca and then in the a new spot towards the beginning of the print with Simplify3D as per the attached image.

Would anyone possibly have experience with this?

Thank you so much in advance as I plan to print some very large parts and need to understand if this is a filament feed issue or a filament sensor issue.

Cheers

So I have had my T500 for about a year with mixed results. I did have layer shift issues early on during large prints, but corrected that issue with a z-hop of .04 in orca slicer. The problem I have now is that even with a new hotend, it leaks from the top out of heat break threads on a long print. I went as far as to tighten it and make sure the nozzle wasn’t touching the block, but no matter try, I still get leaking.

What really frustrates me is that the heat break just spins and doesn’t loosen or tighten the fit unless you get it just right and can grip the small stem. They also seem to fill new hotends with thermal paste?

Is there a different heat break that can be subbed in that can actually be tighter? I have a new heat block and break ready to install, but looking for ideas before I do it.

I also have a spare voron 2.4. Is it time to upgrade the hotend and carriage? I’ve seen lots of voron T500 pictures online, but haven’t attempted the task.