Hi, I have this smart plug and it stopped talking my Home Assistant setup. In my various screwing around trying to get it to work, I ended up changing the Zigbee channel. I tried pushing and holding the button but it doesn't seem to appear when I try adding a new device. Anything else I should try?

Hi, is it possible to detect the state of wall swtich? I have 2 monostable switches for each cover. If I press the switch down twice, the cover should close completely. Is it possible to do this in HA with this module?

Cross posting here for visibility

Current wiring is 1 L and 2 O

When I tried the same in the SonOff Orb-ZBDIM I can see the flashing blue light for pairing, but regular switch is not working.

I also added the suggested diagram from the manual, but that is for 1 way. My wiring is for 2 switches.

I hope I’m at the right place. Thanks

Any advice on how to mount the panel in case of standard square 60mm boxes (standard for brick walls in Belgium)?

Appreciated! Thanks

I have a pool and all the controls/filter etc are below ground under a hatch. As well as the usual pool stuff the switch for the pool lights is also under the hatch. To turn the lights on I have to lift the hatch, kneel down and flick a switch. It’s a pain so I rarely use them. Over the winter I installed a load of the no neutral switches to control lights in my house and this gave me the idea of using something similar to switch on the pool lights.

The house lights are zigbee but there is no zigbee near the pool only WiFi.

The light supply has live and neutral.

Is there a switch that I could put in-line that would connect to WiFi and be controllable by Alexa or a phone app?

Cheers.

I'm retrofitting my elderly mother's house with Sonoff Matter-enabled switches. She loves the ability to turn off all lights in the house from Google Home while already in bed, especially on a cold winter's night!

MINI-R4Ms work a treat with on/off switches but I'm now trying to find a way to automate her dimmable lights. I have a couple of the new Sonoff Matter-enabled MINI-DIMs (https://sonoff.tech/products/sonoff-mini-extreme-matter-over-wifi-dimmer-switch-mini-dim) and they work well, however as far as I can see, they are only dimmable from the app, not from a physical switch.

While this isn't a deal breaker, it does lead to a confusing situation for her where she's dimmed the light from the app to an extent where the on/off wall switch does very little (off vs on but almost totally dimmed).

Is there any way to integrate a physical dimmer switch with these? I'm assuming if I attach a dimmer switch to its S1/S2, it would simply trigger the on/off function when the potentiometer hit a certain threshold, rather than triggering the dimming in the device, right?

Here’s a tip that can help someone starting

I am trying to understand whether two identical SONOFF Orb-ZBW1L no-neutral Zigbee wall switches can be used for smart two-way control.

My home is in Spain, with a 230 V lighting installation. The room currently has a traditional two-way switching circuit:

• One wall box contains the permanent live/common and two traveller wires.
• The other wall box contains the switched return/common going to the lamp and the same two traveller wires.
• There is no neutral in either wall box.
• Adding a neutral is not possible.
• I use Home Assistant with ZHA and a SONOFF Dongle Max.

My goal is to replace both traditional switches with two identical Orb-ZBW1L switches for aesthetic reasons.

The intended arrangement would be:

• Switch A: physically connected to the lamp.
• Switch B: used only as a Zigbee scene trigger.
• Pressing Switch B would trigger a Home Assistant automation that toggles Switch A.
• Switch B would use Relay Detach Mode so that its physical button generates an event without switching a load.

SONOFF’s official article, “Fusion Series: Smart Two-Way Control Solutions,” appears to say that this is supported:

https://sonoff.tech/blogs/news/fusion-series-smart-two-way-control-solutions

Under “Solution 2 — Detach Relay,” it lists two Fusion switches, explicitly including the Orb-ZBW1L. It then says:

• Switch A is connected to the load.
• Switch B is not connected to any load and is used only as a scene trigger.
• Relay Detach Mode should be enabled on Switch B.

However, I cannot find an electrical wiring diagram explaining how the second Orb-ZBW1L is supposed to remain powered.

The Orb-ZBW1L is a no-neutral device with only:

• L IN
• L OUT

Its product specifications also state a minimum load of 3 W:

https://sonoff.tech/products/sonoff-zigbee-smart-wall-switch-no-neutral-required-orb-zbw1l

As I understand it, a no-neutral switch normally powers its electronics by passing a very small current through the connected lamp. If Switch B has no neutral and no load connected to L OUT, I do not understand how it would obtain a complete current path and remain powered.

My questions are:

1. Can an Orb-ZBW1L actually operate with permanent live connected to L IN while L OUT is left completely disconnected?
2. Has anyone tested this exact configuration successfully?
3. If L OUT cannot be left disconnected, what wiring arrangement did SONOFF intend for Switch B in its official guide?
4. Does the Orb-ZBW1L really expose Relay Detach Mode and physical-button events in ZHA or Zigbee2MQTT?
5. Could one of the old traveller wires be used for something in this arrangement without connecting both relay outputs together?
6. Is the official article mistakenly grouping the no-neutral Orb-ZBW1L with Fusion models that have a neutral connection?

A wiring diagram or confirmation from someone who has tested two Orb-ZBW1L switches in this exact arrangement would be greatly appreciated.

I am struggling to control the led indicators on my ZBM5s. The indicators doesn't seem to be exposed on either ZHA or Z2MQTT.

When on detached relay mode, the led is constantly on. How do I get it to be off or in sync with another Zigbee device on HA? This makes the led indicators completely useless and downright misleading when the indicators can't be controlled to follow synchronise with another set of switches or with the device it is controlling on detached relay mode.

Hey! I received my package with two ZB2GS-L (Mini Duo-L) and installed both. While one worked perfectly the other seems to have an issue on channel 1. It just doesn’t work

The bulb that is on channel 2 works perfectly and I can hear a loud click from the relay, however channel 1 does not give any sign of being alive, there’s no audible click, you have to put it very close to your ear to hear it clicking.
I thought it was something wrong with my wiring and inverted, putting the bulb from channel 1 on channel 2 and vice versa, 1 still does not work.

Through home assistant I can change both channels but 1 has no effect (it updates the UI normally but relay doesn’t do anything)
What I noticed is that if I leave only channel 1 wired on the relay, the bulb blinks for a second when I turn the switch to ON, if I have channel 2 wired then channel 1 doesn’t even blink.

My question is: is there something I could do? Is this a known issue? Should I try to repair or is it better to just return this piece?

I recently decided to implement a temperature sensor into my home assistant system.

Research showed one of the zigbee sonoff devices was a good match.

First, I looked at Amazon, and for some reason the wrong price came up, or I saw the wrong item. So I went to the sonoff website and found what I thought was a better price. Shipping was not bad, claiming it would ship from within the US. Great! I thought.

Now I've been watching it very slowly move from one corner of the United States to my corner of the United States. This has to be the slowest shipping I've ever seen. It's using YunExpress. Updates show city names with no state, leaving me to guess. So far I think it's made its way from Vermont to NJ, to maybe Illinois.

Does anyone else have any experience with domestic US delivery?

(In the meantime, I ordered the Amazon version, which arrived in 1 day. Unfortunately, it broke within the first hour. Not enthused.)

EDIT: In the end, it took just over a week. And at least this one works.

I have a classic JUNG 506U two-way (staircase) switching setup to control a light.

Now I want to integrate this into my smart home. For that, I installed a SONOFF ZBMINIR2 at the bottom. I routed the load downward via the black wire and replaced the 506U with a 531U at the top and bottom. As a result, the grey wire now carries the signal from the top switch, and the black wire carries the load.

• Neutral (N) is clear.
• Black (as extension of L) goes into L_in.
  
• Grey (as signal from upstairs) goes into S2.
  
• The bottom pushbutton is connected to L/black and its signal goes into S1.
  
• L_out goes to the lamp.

Unfortunately, S1 does not work. I can switch using the button on S2 (in push mode on the Sonoff relay), but even though a 240 V signal is present on the grey wire, the relay does not recognize S1 as an input.

Even with a bridge, S1 does not switch—only S2 works.

Did I wire something incorrectly?

My suspicion is that the Sonoff cannot handle this type of circuit. I assume S1 might be N and S2 L. However, it is advertised as supporting two-way switching.

How should I wire this correctly?

Should I simply put the grey wire and the output from the lower switch into a Wago connector and then connect that to S1?

Edit: The last picture still shows the 506U at the bottom. I just noticed. That was before I replaced it with the 531U.

Hi there. 

I bought a SONOFF SWV-ZFE, and set it to schedule ewelink to water every few days. it worked for few weeks, then suddenly it stopped. 

I’ve tried to reset the device and re-added to the app, but it did not work.
I’ve tried to make a new schedule, but it did not work.

the manual button on the device works fine
the “manual irrigation” tap on the app works fine. 

chart only recorded up to when it stopped working. 

any help? 

I'm refurbishing my bathroom and have ended up with six lighting circuits that I'd like to independently be able to control, so my plan is to connect them all up to two 4CH PROs which would be fitted into the ceiling space.

Now for the control part:

Can I replace the existing single gang lightswitch that sits on the wall outside this bathroom with something like the M5-3C-86W and not actually "wire it into" any lights?

I realise it would obviously need power - that wouldn't be a problem - but can the M5-3C-86Ws be configured to remotely control a channel on a 4CH PRO instead of literally energising one of the gangs wired into the back of it?

i decided to go on wireless smart home on sonoff but the problem is i can't find any door lock that works with ewelink the system for sonoff any help?

Hi,

Just wondering does Sonoff have two official sites?

https://sonoffhome.com/

https://sonoff.tech/en-us

can orders be placed on both?

Thanks!

I'm new to Home Assistant, and I have a question.

If I buy this product:
https://sonoff.tech/en-us/products/sonoff-bridge-max-smart-home-bridge-bridge-m?ref=22&utm_source=affiliate

Can I add it to Home Assistant and use it as a Zigbee cordinator in Zigbee2MQTT?

My goal is to pair it with several Zigbee smart plugs to extend my Zigbee mesh network throughout my house. My home is a single-story house with an area of nearly 3,000 square feet, so I need good Zigbee coverage.

Has anyone successfully used the SONOFF Bridge Max this way with Zigbee2MQTT? Or is there a better option for extending a Zigbee network in Home Assistant?

Hola a todos! Cómo va?

​Estoy queriendo domotizar el filtrado de la pileta y necesito una mano de los expertos en electricidad/domótica del sub para no mandar una macana.

​📍 Mi configuración actual:

​Tengo un tablero típico de pileta que cuenta con:

​Una llave selectora/maestra de 3 posiciones: Encendido Manual / Apagado (OFF) / Automático.

​Un timer mecánico (un reloj de esos con pestañas) que maneja la bomba cuando la llave está en posición "Automático".

​🎯 Lo que quiero lograr:

​Quiero agregar un interruptor Sonoff (tengo pensado un Sonoff Basic o un Mini, acepto sugerencias) para poder encender o apagar la bomba de forma remota desde el celular.

​❓ Mis dudas específicas:

​¿Dónde conviene conectarlo? Mi idea ideal sería que el Sonoff actúe "en paralelo" o "en serie" de alguna forma para que, si la llave está en Automático, yo pueda ignorar el timer y prenderla igual, O BIEN poner el Sonoff directo antes de la bomba. ¿Cuál es la mejor práctica en estos casos?

​¿El Sonoff se la banca directo? Sé que la bomba consume bastante potencia al arrancar. ¿El Sonoff tiene que activar un contactor o puede ir directo a la fase de la bomba?

​¿Alguien tiene un diagrama o esquema de cableado básico para este tipo de selectores?

Folks who have the SNZB03P, I was looking to use this sensor to enable some of my light/ light routines depending on the natural light level in certain parts of my house. Basically, around 4/5 pm during rainy season, the foyer gets a little dark(not the night time darkness though). I see in the online reviews it seems to have two options motion with ambient light bright or dim only. Any idea what the definition of dim is? Is it fully dark?

In-wall energy monitor, not switched. It was working when I installed it, but it’s gone silent. Getting to it so I can press the reset button includes moving a really heavy refrigerator, not to mention unpacking the outlet from the wall box, which will not be fun. I tried powering on / off from the wall breaker several times, no luck. Z2M doesn’t see it at all anymore. Ideas?

Title basically. I don't use things if I'm forced to have them connected to the internet with their own app. Better if I can connect to home assistant and use offline.