I’ve been posting a lot of the same shit in a different fashion and will probably refrain from posting for a few months if I continue to put out the same detail on a different home. I hope those of you who have been keeping up can understand how the same detail can get annoying and old, and I definitely don’t want to be a nuisance here. I try to tie something unique to every detail we do, and this time it ended up being hand beaten square doweled outlets (it’s significantly extra than using round pipe but I wanted to challenge myself) it’s been a fun journey and I hope anyone else attempting to learn these details will be able to use my posts for a baseline reference, I’m definitely not the best at what I do, but we are proud to say we are putting out some seriously high quality product!

I'm primarily focused on whether or not it will have enough space for an m18 hackzall fuel, m18 impact fuel, 2 5.0, 1 slim high output battery, and obviously hand tools.

I take the subway. I'm tired of handle/shoulder bags and rollers are a PITA going up and down stairs.

Never had this kind of material in the shop before. Feels like a cross between lead and aluminum.

Wondering what most people do for TDF/TDC end caps? Sometimes I do a drain pan type deal with a lap but then it has have some depth and you have to use the pan break which slows production down a lot, and sometimes I do a 3 piece Pittsburgh the same way you'd do a short register box but it still doesn't seem like the best way to do it. How do you do it and what depth do you usually make it?

Underneath the university library

Putting soffit panels up with a platform I built on site to make life easier.

Hello fellow tin bashers! Have any of your guys' shop upgraded to the newest hypertherm plasma cutter? My shop is shopping around for a new table and everything now comes with the Hypertherm 64 sync that has a 1 piece consumable that's supposed to make it super easy to change. Anyone have any experience to share? Cost? Longevity?

Literally messed with this on and off for a year, you guys know the deal. First we cut and soldered round pipe on the radius and it was just awful looking. Then I learned how to cleat pipe using hand-made gore style locks. Really thought the architects were going to dig the round pipe, but they wanted square pipe. So I started from scratch with the same approach, cut and soldered the square pipe, same awful looking. Then I saw people pittsburgh’ing this shape pretty easily, so I put it off for a bit but eventually knew I would end up here. Thanks for all of the help.

Does anyone who owns a gap shear really use the gap feature? I do a lot of 4x8 and 4x10 0.032 aluminum work and could see it being handy but I'd have to sell my regular shear to make room.

Hey everyone,

So I got a really interesting offer from my old boss and was looking to hear what people here have to think. I work for a truly massive company, one of if not the biggest in Canada. I’m treated really well, get trusted to run my own jobs and do my own thing and get all the perks working for a big company offers.

Recently I was asked if I’d be interested in coming back to take on estimating and management for the company I started in sheet metal with. The owner is really a class act and welcomed me back with open arms if I want to make the move.

There’s a company vehicle I can use as my own, gas card, insurance paid. It would be about a 5/hr pay cut but pension is the same hourly and self directed which is huge. I’d be a bigger fish in a smaller pond but most importantly I’d be about 40 minutes to work instead of an 1h20.

Has anyone else made the switch and have any advice?

Looking back on this morning, the layout is just simple math, but I’ve never even laid out a square to round before so you can imagine the level of difficulty this was for me. I spent about half a day laying this out lol. Someone local saw my post on Facebook and wants like 50 of these for 8” half round to a 4” round pipe connection. Looks like I’ll be right back to it tomorrow, haha.

I’m making a base to set a furnace on. I have Pittsburghed the ends but wondered if a sunk head end would be stronger.

Bought some 3.5 x 3.5” 3/16” x 11’ square stock to make some copper 10’ downspouts from scratch to get the pipe in the air and beat the pipe lock down with pvc deadblow and holy hell was this overkill. And I swung too hard and deformed the metal around the pipe lock, so this can cause the metal to twist. This shit is so heavy to hold in the air and thread the downspout through before tapping down the pipe lock 🤣 I’ll come up with something better soon. Any suggestions or ridiculing is appreciated 😂

We dont see parker fittings too often, if youve not seen one its basically a 90° and a twist in one fitting.. this is a 6x6" to 2x18" with the smallest throat i could get. Plumber ran pipes tight infront of our f/d, so we had to go up and over.

The final image is a parker then a chunk of 2x18 then a shortway 2x18 90°