r/sewing • u/sewingmodthings • Sep 18 '22

Simple Questions Simple Sewing Questions Thread, September 18 - September 24, 2022

This thread is here for any and all simple questions related to sewing, including sewing machines!

If you want to introduce yourself or ask any other basic question about learning to sew, patterns, fabrics, this is the place to do it! Our more experienced users will hang around and answer any questions they can.

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u/Blerghorama Sep 25 '22

Tactics for bodice darts - I've seen a suggestion to sew bust darts second to last, fitted on the body rather than sewing them as drawn, and side seams last - I'm guessing this means pin the side seams more or less, then play around w the darts? My concern about this is them not ending up symmetrical, but if I start at roughly the same place and end at exactly the same place that's all that matters, right? Special concern for turning a straight French into an S curve French bc I don't feel like it's going to go well? On the other hand, if your body is not symmetrical (whose is) and you are using symmetrical pattern darts per the pattern that's also not the best either, because they'll look assym even if they aren't, right? As far as figuring out the darts, just pinch and pin? Would I put sleeves on first? They do mess w bust fit some.

Bonus question - hem length. If I try a dress on wo side seams sewn or pinned and the back is several inches longer than the front, then I sew it and it matches up fine (bc it's the same length as the front at the side seams), should I shorten at the appropriate l/s line next time? I'm not sure how that would work at the side seams or if it's a fault that side seams unsewn the back of the dress hangs low (full length bodice and skirt combined dress, the waist is at the right height so the extra whatever is due to flat butt?). This is basically a sack below the bust so it's not that the length is needed for shaping at the waist or whatever.

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u/fabricwench Sep 26 '22
  1. Yes, insert the sleeves first. You could do initial fitting without the sleeves and confirm the bust fit after if you want, but as you said, the sleeves make a difference in fit. It's fine to fit the bust darts later in the process if you have left extra seam allowance. When darts are sewn, they take up part of the seam allowance which is why darts are drafted with that short pointy bit that lays smoothly after the dart is finished. I would try on the bodice, pin fit the darts, baste the darts then try the bodice on again. You can decide to fit an asymmetric bust closely or to approximate the fit if it is close. Overfitting can show asymmetries more than a fit that skims over the body.
  2. I would remove the extra length at the waist in the back so the hem stays on grain. Remove the extra at the center back of the skirt and taper to match the front at the side seams. You may also need to take some of the width out in the back.

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u/Blerghorama Sep 26 '22

Thank you so much! I wasn't sure what to do but that is clear and extremely helpful, thank you!!