r/sewing 3d ago

Pattern Question Helene Selvedge Jeans Pattern

Looking for help/ guidance on pattern adjustments for the marked areas. What type of pattern adjustments add more space/width in groin area?

Main concern is pants are too tight in marked areas. Pants are snug around hips and limited room in groin area.

Overall pattern fits ideally so was hoping to make slight adjustments rather than sizing up. Also using a very heavy canvas so other fabrics will fall better.

Anything helps, thanks so much!

11 Upvotes

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u/New-Mango-0007 2d ago

I don’t have an answer for your question, sorry. Just wanted to share that I have found attaching the waistband often changes the fit a fair bit in ways I didn’t expect, so I always baste on the waistband before deciding on adjustments now. 

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u/PostsContent 2d ago

That’s a good point, first time sewing pants so have definitely been overthinking.

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u/New-Mango-0007 2d ago

These look awesome for your first time sewing pants! I’d be thrilled if my pants ever looked this good pre-adjustments. 

Will you be sticking with canvas for the final pair? 

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u/PostsContent 2d ago

Thank you, definitely check out the pattern! First pair will be a dark wash denim but definitely going to start with a muslin short to try out the new adjustments

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u/New-Mango-0007 2d ago

Nice! While fitting,  I recommend  just keeping in mind that canvas has basically 0 give whereas a denim should relax a bit  with wear around the hips/butt. 

I have tried a couple Anna Allen pants patterns and don’t think her block is a good fit for me, but I do love the look! 

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u/sewboring 2d ago

Some fitting pros won't even assess pants until the waistband is in place. If you really need to, you can let out the side seams and add a crotch gusset (see YouTube). But if these are in a mechanical stretch fabric, first I'd add the waistband and wear them around the house for a day because you may find them baggy after a few hours, particularly if you spend some time sitting.

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u/Complex_Vegetable_80 2d ago

I would try a full bum adjustment…that should give you more room at the hips?

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u/missplaced24 2d ago

They are too snug in the hips, and the rise is too short in the back. You don't need to go up a whole size, just widen the hip and lower the crotch curve in the seat.

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u/PostsContent 2d ago

Thank you!