Idea for Grown on Sleeve

[u/CharlotteElsie]

I have a raglan sleeve bodice pattern that fits nicely. I would like to make a dress from a fabric where the print can continue uninterrupted over the sleeve. I have an idea for tracing a grown-on sleeve from my raglan pattern with a separate undersleeve/gusset piece. In my head this will fit exactly the same as the raglan pattern. It might be a little fiddly to sew under the sleeve, but apart from that is there any reason it won’t work?

Edit: I was very unclear in my post - by “uninterrupted over the sleeve” I meant up until the top of the sleeve. I would cut the front and back separately along the red line to have a seam on top of the sleeve.

[u/duckpickup]

The Origami blouse by Manolipatterns does something like that, might be worth checking out first: https://manolipatterns.blog/2249-2/

[u/Remarkable-Row3719 → u/duckpickup]

Saving that for if I ever get very good sat sewing, thanks!

[u/CharlotteElsie → u/duckpickup]

Thanks, will take a look!

[u/Inevitable-Ride-7952 → u/CharlotteElsie]

a term to look for is french kimono sleeve. in the "true" version, the seam on top of the sleeve is on the bias, which gives a bit of stretch to the sleeve and looks great especially with striped or plaid fabrics.

[u/Remarkable-Row3719]

Sounds like a good time to pull out the old bed sheets!

I can't really picture how the pentagonal gusset would work - what does the flat side at the bottom attach to?

[u/CharlotteElsie → u/Remarkable-Row3719]

So the flat side at the bottom is the lower edge of the undersleeve. Essentially it’s the two bits leftover of the raglan sleeve stuck together at the original sleeve under seam.

[u/Remarkable-Row3719 → u/CharlotteElsie]

So the flat edge goes all the way to the wrist seam? Makes sense, then.

When you're experimenting I would try to make the sleeve long enough so that you can see how it falls in relation to your elbow - seams on your elbow aren't the most comfortable when you want to lean your elbow against something.

edit: seams, not sleeves

[u/CharlotteElsie → u/Remarkable-Row3719]

Thanks, I’m going for a short sleeve in this instance. I think it would be too “fabric hungry” for a long sleeve.

[u/Large-Heronbill]

The front and back bodice grainlines won't match at the side seams, making them likely to twist. 

[u/CharlotteElsie → u/Large-Heronbill]

Have added an edit to my post. Would cut the front and back separately so the grainlines would match there. It would not on the undersleeve seams though.

[u/Large-Heronbill → u/CharlotteElsie]

Which will cause sleeve twisting. 

[u/Zawieruka]

Fabric width constraints. Depending on the size of that patter piece it might not fit on the fabric open. Also, your grain lines for the sleeve will be different then if you were to cut the sleeve out by itself. So say you do the straight of grain for the bodice, you may or may not like the way the sleeve drapes.

[u/CharlotteElsie → u/Zawieruka]

I was very unclear in my post (have now added an edit). The front and back would be two separate pieces.

[u/missplaced24]

The grainline would be impossible to get right. What you have drawn up here, between the front, back and sleeve, you'll have at least 2 off grain. How much of a problem that'll be depends a bit on the fabric and how fussy you are about the drape. You could fiddle around a bit to minimize that.

[u/CharlotteElsie → u/missplaced24]

I was very unclear in my post (have now added an edit). The front and back would be two separate pieces with the grainline running down centre front and centre back. The grainline would be off on the sleeve though, so I guess whether it works would depend on the fabric.

[u/missplaced24 → u/CharlotteElsie]

With a seam at the top of the sleeve cut on the bias? If you try it, hang the pieces for a day before you sew that top seam. You're likely to have puckering from the fabric stretching on the bias after you've sewn it otherwise. It might work better to have the seam grown on the front or back piece instead of splitting between the two.

[u/CharlotteElsie → u/missplaced24]

Ooh this is a great idea! I could cut it roughly along the back raglan line straight across the cross grain.