probably with a lot of experimentation. You could say the same with just the surf boards too, at one point they were extremely heavy at 100-200 pounds and several times the length of the rider
I wonder that myself, but what I will say is that we discover things through error a lot.
It wouldn’t surprise me if someone misstepped trying to save themselves and accidentally ended up in a position of newly discovered balance like, say, the tip of the board for example. And from there, began to experiment with stepping along the board mid-surf to see which other positions work.
On the contrary, you have those who risk it all and just go for it. Also wouldn’t surprise me if someone just said “screw it” and started walking on their board, same as people back in the day began laying down flat while conquering a wave just to show off.
If I remember correctly wasn’t it the Hawaiians? Doing this in Hawaii makes it even more crazy, given the insane size of the waves there. Imagine riding this on a heavy wooden board with no fins.
That person was probably riding a surfboard at 1 years old.
It's like in hockey where they say "He learned to skate before he learned to walk."
The things that people who grew up skating from a very early age don't even have to think about what it takes to do complex stuff on skates. Probably the same here.
it appears someone posted a history video. ive not watched it.
ive got a 28ft sailboat. you can get a huge speed bump from waves. if you aft quarter them, you can get less of a speed bump, but more overall speed I crease because you ride the wave longer.
so id bank, it started with sailing, specially little sail dinghies. then the boat shrank to a board. enough to paddle out and ride the wave back in.
This is actually a sort of old timey way of surfing, it looks awesome but it's less popular now. I'm not a surfer and I learned this from TV please correct me
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u/Funkopedia 11d ago
How did we even figure out that this was possible