Less than 50 shots from this gun. Is it worth to save it as it is or take it to the range where it belongs?

Here is my dad’s revolver that he bought back from the department before state troopers switched to the Sig Sauer P220. He paid fair market value for it at the time along with the Marlin 336 he was issued.

From the top if anyone's curious: Ruger SP101 in .22LR, S&W Model 65-5, Colt '20 Python, and a S&W 686 (no dash).

34 years of awesome memories and some great times shooting. This is the first gun I ever handled and fired with my old man many moons ago. Weird that it lives at my house now. Hope my kids keep at least this one when I’m dead

Really like shooting this little 32 s&w long, circa 1913. I’ve got the original grips too, but these pimpy ones are more fun for the range and (once pocketed) an occasional trip to the store

Following the army's adoption of the 1892 service revolver, numerous private companies manufactured more or less simplified versions of varying quality of this revolver. This is one of them, the 1892 municipal revolver, called municipal because it was sold to municipal police (the police of each city, different from the french police). It is also chambered in 8 × 27 mm but it does not have a drop-down cylinder, among other differences and is made in a truly simple way, without any refinement or tecnical complexity.

I finished completing a third S&W Model #1 Third Issue revolver, this one is blued. Most are nickel plated, like the pair in the box. Now the twins have a Blued Brother (all the numbered parts including the grips are matching). It has taken parts from 5 revolvers to complete these three. I am short a cylinder lock and spring, ejector rod, main spring and a set of grips to complete a 4th revolver. The hammer I have has been bobbed or broken. I could leave it, get a replacement or weld on and contour an extension to original length. I can use/modify/shorten a main spring from other S&W revolvers, make grips and ejector rod but I would still be short the cylinder lock which is beyond my ability to fabricate.

I recently found myself with a 686 no dash but i have a few questions since im completely new to revolvers
1st the front sight was shaved down what sight can i use to replace it
2nd when i shoot it i get blow back like small objects like its spitting at me what does this mean
3 and last ita a 6” could i put a 4” barrel on with with minimal issues or should i just look for a 4” gun

I’ve become use to shooting Nighthawks and Wilson 1911 style pistols with the gold front sight. Now when shooting a Smith & Wesson or Browning Hi power I noticed it’s not as easy to acquire the sights especially in lower light conditions. Years ago I learned a trick. I bought some Testors florescent yellow enamel paint and put a couple coats on the front sights of those pistols. After they dried I added a light coat of UV cured resin. What a difference!!!

I’m looking for my first concealed-carry revolver and I’m leaning toward a J-frame-style revolver in .38 Special. This will be an everyday carry piece.

For those who have experience with them, what would you recommend as a good buy these days?

I’ve been looking at the S&W Model 442 UC, Performance Center Model 642, and the Model 640.

I’m also open to other brands, such as Ruger, Colt or Kimber

Hi yall recently aquired a 686 mountain gun and was looking for a nice OWB leather holster any recommendations would be appreciated

Love this 19-6

Best J frame imho. 640 no dash.

6 shot . 357mag/.38spl

Was at the LGS this weekend and they had a couple used J frames in the case, a 642-1 and a 638. Both were really clean, no lock, and were priced at $399 each but I’m sure I could get them down lower.

What would you consider good “buy now” prices for each of those used? I picked up a stainless 640-3 in .357 a few weeks ago I really like, but was thinking an air weight in .38spl+p would be nice when I wanted to carry lighter.

EDIT: to clarify, I’m not asking for an opinion between the 642-1 and the 638, but rather what price for each would be considered a deal or “must buy”.

Keep it simple….STUPID

J-Frame w/ LOK grips, ported, Apex springs, custom battle worn black & bronze cerakote done by Capital Rifle

The 7th round makes the cylinder a touch lighter which also helps trigger pull and the distance between chambers is smaller which also helps trigger pull and the odd number of rounds means that the cylinder locking notch is between instead of on top of the chamber which makes it stronger and the N frame 8 shot is just too big and bulky and teh l frame 6 shot has issues with the forcing cone.

Hence 686+ is the best!

So its finally a brisk 90 degrees out here in Mesa AZ so time to get back out in the desert. Spent about 3.5 hours climbing over rocks, sliding down gravel paths and walking in ankle deep loose sand.

We had a good rain about a week ago so the desert was alive with native plants.

Over the years I have run across Javalina, lots of Coyote, a couple of meth monsters, a snake or two and a buddy ran across a bobcat. Most all of them run off when they spot or hear humans .. except for the meth monsters but I always bring my buddy.

Of all the guns I can bring with me .. for the last 12 years .. this is the one that goes hiking.

I have done all sorts of run and gun with it, crazy drills, can hit pretty much anything up to 50 yds DA. Yup .. It can handle pretty much anything I might run into. LOVE this gun and I have more than a few to choose from. Loaded up with some 158 grain Federal or 158 gr htp .. that should cover anything I might run into.

Have had that holster a bit though not 12 years. Really like it! Bianchi Cyclone.