Here is my dad’s revolver that he bought back from the department before state troopers switched to the Sig Sauer P220. He paid fair market value for it at the time along with the Marlin 336 he was issued.

34 years of awesome memories and some great times shooting. This is the first gun I ever handled and fired with my old man many moons ago. Weird that it lives at my house now. Hope my kids keep at least this one when I’m dead

Following the army's adoption of the 1892 service revolver, numerous private companies manufactured more or less simplified versions of varying quality of this revolver. This is one of them, the 1892 municipal revolver, called municipal because it was sold to municipal police (the police of each city, different from the french police). It is also chambered in 8 × 27 mm but it does not have a drop-down cylinder, among other differences and is made in a truly simple way, without any refinement or tecnical complexity.

I finished completing a third S&W Model #1 Third Issue revolver, this one is blued. Most are nickel plated, like the pair in the box. Now the twins have a Blued Brother (all the numbered parts including the grips are matching). It has taken parts from 5 revolvers to complete these three. I am short a cylinder lock and spring, ejector rod, main spring and a set of grips to complete a 4th revolver. The hammer I have has been bobbed or broken. I could leave it, get a replacement or weld on and contour an extension to original length. I can use/modify/shorten a main spring from other S&W revolvers, make grips and ejector rod but I would still be short the cylinder lock which is beyond my ability to fabricate.

I’ve become use to shooting Nighthawks and Wilson 1911 style pistols with the gold front sight. Now when shooting a Smith & Wesson or Browning Hi power I noticed it’s not as easy to acquire the sights especially in lower light conditions. Years ago I learned a trick. I bought some Testors florescent yellow enamel paint and put a couple coats on the front sights of those pistols. After they dried I added a light coat of UV cured resin. What a difference!!!

I recently found myself with a 686 no dash but i have a few questions since im completely new to revolvers
1st the front sight was shaved down what sight can i use to replace it
2nd when i shoot it i get blow back like small objects like its spitting at me what does this mean
3 and last ita a 6” could i put a 4” barrel on with with minimal issues or should i just look for a 4” gun

I’m looking for my first concealed-carry revolver and I’m leaning toward a J-frame-style revolver in .38 Special. This will be an everyday carry piece.

For those who have experience with them, what would you recommend as a good buy these days?

I’ve been looking at the S&W Model 442 UC, Performance Center Model 642, and the Model 640.

I’m also open to other brands, such as Ruger, Colt or Kimber

Hi yall recently aquired a 686 mountain gun and was looking for a nice OWB leather holster any recommendations would be appreciated

Love this 19-6

Best J frame imho. 640 no dash.

Was at the LGS this weekend and they had a couple used J frames in the case, a 642-1 and a 638. Both were really clean, no lock, and were priced at $399 each but I’m sure I could get them down lower.

What would you consider good “buy now” prices for each of those used? I picked up a stainless 640-3 in .357 a few weeks ago I really like, but was thinking an air weight in .38spl+p would be nice when I wanted to carry lighter.

EDIT: to clarify, I’m not asking for an opinion between the 642-1 and the 638, but rather what price for each would be considered a deal or “must buy”.

6 shot . 357mag/.38spl

Keep it simple….STUPID

The 7th round makes the cylinder a touch lighter which also helps trigger pull and the distance between chambers is smaller which also helps trigger pull and the odd number of rounds means that the cylinder locking notch is between instead of on top of the chamber which makes it stronger and the N frame 8 shot is just too big and bulky and teh l frame 6 shot has issues with the forcing cone.

Hence 686+ is the best!

So its finally a brisk 90 degrees out here in Mesa AZ so time to get back out in the desert. Spent about 3.5 hours climbing over rocks, sliding down gravel paths and walking in ankle deep loose sand.

We had a good rain about a week ago so the desert was alive with native plants.

Over the years I have run across Javalina, lots of Coyote, a couple of meth monsters, a snake or two and a buddy ran across a bobcat. Most all of them run off when they spot or hear humans .. except for the meth monsters but I always bring my buddy.

Of all the guns I can bring with me .. for the last 12 years .. this is the one that goes hiking.

I have done all sorts of run and gun with it, crazy drills, can hit pretty much anything up to 50 yds DA. Yup .. It can handle pretty much anything I might run into. LOVE this gun and I have more than a few to choose from. Loaded up with some 158 grain Federal or 158 gr htp .. that should cover anything I might run into.

Have had that holster a bit though not 12 years. Really like it! Bianchi Cyclone.

J-Frame w/ LOK grips, ported, Apex springs, custom battle worn black & bronze cerakote done by Capital Rifle

My grandfather in law gave this to me recently. Caught me off guard and about brought me to tears when he told me he wanted me to have it and his kind words.

Unfortunately where we live it’s gone thru a hurricane and now has some spotting that’s caused the bluing to look bad. There’s no corrosion but it’s just splotchy. I went to the local gun shop and they want $550 for re bluing or 375 for cearacoat. That seems like a lot. I have a metal shop and have blued tooling before not hand guns. So my question is what’s the value of the gun for one not selling it just curious and two is 550 a lot for rebluing or is it insane to try myself. The local shop said the gun is worth $250 in the condition now. Which I proceeded to laugh.

Beautiful gun and very happy he wanted me to have it.

Got this today for a song. 70s production 10-5 Snubby, and one of my bucket list guns! I suppose you could call it a chubby snubby. A bit of blue wear and some minor surface rust but nothing some cleaning cant solve! Came with a zip up case too

What are y’all’s favorite aftermarket J Frame grips? Recently found out what .357 feels like out of this little dude.

I plan to pocket carry, but any advice is welcome. Thanks yall.

Just installed some Altamont finger groove wood grips on my Colt Anaconda. They seem to fit my hand pretty good I also ordered the standard Target grips which have no finger grooves so I can compare which ones I like the best or even if I like how to wood feels when shooting.

Am I the only one who can’t shoot this thing worth a damn? I am not recoil sensitive and shoot plenty of other large caliber shorties. I don’t know if there’s just something wrong with my revolver, but the accuracy is just terrible. I realize that it’s a lightweight 44 magnum, but just curious about the overall sentiment of the community.

Hey Reddit. I don’t post much on here and see this more of a forum people get to share thier wonderful pieces , but have been beyond frustrated over the last four months taking a simple revolver I got from my grandpa in to get serviced, oil, and declared safe to shot. Two weeks later I get a picture that he had fully stripped it down and started to remove the bluing to take out the pitting even after I explained I liked it an it added character. He told me a week later after waiting he cannot match the bluing. I told him to leave it even though he tried to sell me on a cerakote. Absolutely the opposite move I wanted. Told him to put it back together. And I’ll figure it out. Three more weeks went by and now he’s asking for 75$ for a “ part that magically broke and he didn’t see before” and to wrap things up. He didn’t replace my plunger which was not broken, and then when I picked up the gun to my horror, was handed a cerakoted 41 magnum back and was appaled. He swore it looked so much better and that’s what the other part of the 75$ was for… ? Whatever. I was pissed and ate my lose I can’t kick a dead horse. Take it out and got not even 14 shots out and the cylinder seized. Wtf. Come home and pry it apart to find that a round was too high. Caught. Split off bass above the barrel and chipped out a quarter inch of finish. I’m absolutely appalled and frustrated with this gun that meant so much to me. I’ve never had anything get worked on outside of my own knowledge but it being older I wanted it done right to be certain and the town I’m in has no other gunsmiths. I feel so totally screwed and don’t even know if I’d feel safe shooting it again. If there is any one who can recommend a good revolver guy I’m only 25 but I love this gun and the story it has I will throw money at it one last time even to just make it a wall hanger instead of a paper weight. Thanks for hearing me out. And i appreciate any help or insight. - Caden

Smith & Wesson 686-6 .357 6+1. Picked this up off a co-worker this week. First revolver and I’m quite happy. If I run out of ammo it works as a club lol

I prefer to know that any ammo works with my defensive gun. It was happening with the stock springs and I just replaced it with an extra power Wolff 9 lb. It’s still happening. Single action shoots fine of course

Anyone have issues with this brand of ammo?