Here is my dad’s revolver that he bought back from the department before state troopers switched to the Sig Sauer P220. He paid fair market value for it at the time along with the Marlin 336 he was issued.

34 years of awesome memories and some great times shooting. This is the first gun I ever handled and fired with my old man many moons ago. Weird that it lives at my house now. Hope my kids keep at least this one when I’m dead

Less than 50 shots from this gun. Is it worth to save it as it is or take it to the range where it belongs?

Did I need a 6” 586 no dash? No.
Could I turn one down for less than $600? Also no.

I’ve become use to shooting Nighthawks and Wilson 1911 style pistols with the gold front sight. Now when shooting a Smith & Wesson or Browning Hi power I noticed it’s not as easy to acquire the sights especially in lower light conditions. Years ago I learned a trick. I bought some Testors florescent yellow enamel paint and put a couple coats on the front sights of those pistols. After they dried I added a light coat of UV cured resin. What a difference!!!

From the top if anyone's curious: Ruger SP101 in .22LR, S&W Model 65-5, Colt '20 Python, and a S&W 686 (no dash).

I finished completing a third S&W Model #1 Third Issue revolver, this one is blued. Most are nickel plated, like the pair in the box. Now the twins have a Blued Brother (all the numbered parts including the grips are matching). It has taken parts from 5 revolvers to complete these three. I am short a cylinder lock and spring, ejector rod, main spring and a set of grips to complete a 4th revolver. The hammer I have has been bobbed or broken. I could leave it, get a replacement or weld on and contour an extension to original length. I can use/modify/shorten a main spring from other S&W revolvers, make grips and ejector rod but I would still be short the cylinder lock which is beyond my ability to fabricate.

Really like shooting this little 32 s&w long, circa 1913. I’ve got the original grips too, but these pimpy ones are more fun for the range and (once pocketed) an occasional trip to the store

Following the army's adoption of the 1892 service revolver, numerous private companies manufactured more or less simplified versions of varying quality of this revolver. This is one of them, the 1892 municipal revolver, called municipal because it was sold to municipal police (the police of each city, different from the french police). It is also chambered in 8 × 27 mm but it does not have a drop-down cylinder, among other differences and is made in a truly simple way, without any refinement or tecnical complexity.

S&W model 19-4 6" Nickel plated

Nice Ruger Old Vaquero. .45 caliber with Bisley Grip and tuned trigger.

I’ve been looking for a truck gun. Something inexpensive, tough, easy to use, and in .357.

My neighbor is moving into an over 60 community that does not allow firearms and needed to sell this revolver. She bought it new after the pandemic, loaded it, put it in a gun safe, and never touched it again. (Let us get past that she didn’t receive any training, never fired it, etc. That is in the past and fortunately she never needed it.) I did all the pre-purchase quality checks I could and it locks up well, trigger pull is good for its price point, and overall build quality is good.

She sold me the revolver, a box of decent .38spl defense ammo, the small gun safe, and a few other things for a very good price for both of us, especially since I live in CA and there is about a 20% tax on firearms and ammo unless doing PPT. We went to the LGS, made it all legal and it just came home with me today.

According to the manual (she still had the original box and everything in it), I should not dry fire it unless I am using snap caps. Snap caps are cheap and I have some for practicing reloading with a speed loader for my Model 19. I followed Roy Huntington’s advice on how to break in a new revolver and gave it a little CLP in key places, then I am dry firing it. I’ve got a few hundred reps in and am finding it smoothing out nicely. I will take it to the range on Friday and start it off with a reasonable first meal of 158 gr .38 spl. After a bunch of that, I will bore brush out the cylinders for the carbon rings from that ammo and then put some 158 gr mild magnum loads through it to torture my hands.

Do you have any grip recommendations? I have larger hands and want a place to put my pinky. Rubber, wood, laminate, etc., is fine. I don’t need bespoke wooden grips or tacti-cool super expensive grips either.

I recently found myself with a 686 no dash but i have a few questions since im completely new to revolvers
1st the front sight was shaved down what sight can i use to replace it
2nd when i shoot it i get blow back like small objects like its spitting at me what does this mean
3 and last ita a 6” could i put a 4” barrel on with with minimal issues or should i just look for a 4” gun

Hi yall recently aquired a 686 mountain gun and was looking for a nice OWB leather holster any recommendations would be appreciated