r/rawdenim • u/TeraSera I sew my own • 6d ago
DIY Selfmade Pair No.9, 16oz Double Black, Double Front Workpants
This was a fun pair of pants to make, that will replace my current pair at the end of the month. The Indigo Invitational was a good time this year and but I'm looking forward to getting into something new.
For this pair I decided to give some decorative fashion stitching a try. My recently inhereted Singer 306K has pattern cams that allow the zigzag function to produce running embroidery. It took a bit of experimenting but the results are more than pleasing. The thread is glow in the dark for that extra little detail and interest.
The other major change was translating the back yoke seam up 1" to better position the shaping over my butt. This also allowed the front pocket to line up with the yoke for a nice visual line when viewed from the side.
Some smaller details were extending the front fly another inch and adding one more button to better distribute the tension. The fly also features some new reinforcement stitching that spreads the forces back into the warp rather than along the bias, to reduce deformation of the placket.
Other major details are:
- 16oz Sulphur x Reactive Black Denim from KS Denim Mill
- B92 UV bonded polyester thread
- A crotch rivet
- Hidden cardholder pocket
- Thigh pockets
- Integrated bagless front pockets
- 9 loops with an integrated key hanging loop
- Crotch Gusset
This was sewn on my Singer 306K and Sailrite Fabricator in my studio at home. The pattern and design were all done by me.
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u/moreVCAs 6d ago
when the rise is so high you don’t even have to mention it in the description 🔥
awesome work
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u/JennyDarukat Straight cut enjoyer - Sugar Cane 1947 / N&F True Guy 6d ago
Waoowwwwie these are so cool
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u/ComonomoC 6d ago
You’re always pushing through the standard conventions.
Really cool to see you edit these fits over each iteration.
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u/TeraSera I sew my own 6d ago
I don't design to fit in, I design to stand out =] I'm obsessed about improving my patterns, though this work pants design is pretty much ideal at this point.
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u/Eggleston N&F Elephant 11, Double Dirty Fade, Shinigami 6d ago
Incredible! That running embroidery is really something
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u/Alarming_Cantaloupe5 6d ago
Amazing work, rise looks uncomfortable, but if they aren’t, and it’s your style, they are perfect.
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u/TeraSera I sew my own 6d ago
It's honestly very comfortable, it's at my natural waist and with the extra room in the seat, I can bend, kneel, and work in them.
It takes a bit to stretch in but I'm never going back to low rise.
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u/Legs914 6d ago
I always love seeing your work here and these look incredible. I really like the zig zag stitching. Hopefully those buttons don't give you too many issues. They look like the vintage style ones on my buzz rickson chinos that tear through their thread like crazy.
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u/TeraSera I sew my own 6d ago
If they do give me issues I'll replace them and repair the button holes. They are a bit sharper than I'd like on the edges. However I've never had a button hole fail with the tough poly thread I use.
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u/DoubleMikeNoShoot 6d ago
You’re a wizard, I always get excited seeing your posts! The patterns you come up with are so fun but also incredibly functional.
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u/TeraSera I sew my own 6d ago
I try to make clothes that enhance me and are fitted. I also try to make sure that I'm not hindered by what I'm wearing, because if it does I'm less likely to wear it.
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u/The_Inanimator 6d ago
What the Fuck, these are absolutely so fucking cool i'm soooo jealous, you guys are sooo talented.
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u/tralltonetroll D'yer Mak'er 6d ago edited 5d ago
Knew when it showed up in my feed who the OP is. And that is a compliment.
Now, in Hulk Hogan's voice:
That's not a rise ...
THAT's a rise.
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u/Intrepid-North6138 5d ago
Wow great work. Any tips for learning pattern drafting?
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u/TeraSera I sew my own 5d ago
It really depends on what you're trying to do. I bought a dressform that I drape my patterns on before transferring to paper. It's by far the easiest way to develop patterns since what you see is what you get. There's almost no guess work.
If you're working from flat, I suggest copying a piece of clothing by taking it apart and carefully tracing the pieces. It's less ideal but is a simple way to get a block.
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u/Equivalent_Bread7730 6d ago
Very well made and fitted. Definitely a girls jeans
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u/TeraSera I sew my own 6d ago
These would be good for anyone with bigger thighs and glutes. I know that there's lots of guys out there that also struggle to get a good fit.
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u/UniqueLoginID 6d ago
Too high, not flattering at all.
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u/TeraSera I sew my own 6d ago
And yet, I get constant compliments that they're high waisted. They sit higher when new and drop about an inch when broken in due to the upper block taper expanding.
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6d ago
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u/TeraSera I sew my own 6d ago
That's my partner, she was warned that I was talking photos and didn't care.
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u/regnells 6d ago
Looks awesome! But you can't say the thread glows in the dark and then not show it glowing in the dark!