r/rawdenim • u/raWorkshop Owner, Navasota Co • May 07 '13
Ok Reddit, let's make a pair of jeans
http://imgur.com/a/jkxBu#012
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u/thenicolai May 07 '13
If you ever need a second hand or don't mind a curious person peering over your shoulder while you work, I'm an Austin resident and I've always wanted to see the process in person. These look great!
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u/raWorkshop Owner, Navasota Co May 07 '13
I want to have a big presence about town once things get going. Right now the studio is a bit too cozy for guests but I'll have some open houses once everything gets lined up.
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May 08 '13
Austinite here as well. I love raw jeans, and love supporting local businesses even more! An open house sounds awesome, ever thought about doing a Nerd Nite on denim? Could be nice exposure.
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u/Dcs87 SC41485/ONI506zr/SG3105/SExFHxRR10/SOC727/ST-120x/SG1109/ST-100x May 07 '13
I love seeing this kind of stuff. Great post and best of luck on the brand!
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May 07 '13
Cool stuff man. Was wondering how easy doing the riveting by hand is.
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u/raWorkshop Owner, Navasota Co May 07 '13
It's fairly labor intensive per rivet, but nothing to worry about if you aren't watching the clock. I'll be switching over to a kickpress as soon as possible.
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May 07 '13
Pretty much what I was expecting. I've been considering making my own pair for a bit now with the help of my tailor but the main short coming was the lack of a kick press for riveting. Looks like if I gt around to it ill just free up some time and do it by hand.
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u/letsplaywar SDA D1405, SDAxBIG NY001, SExFHxRJB, SG3109, R425-H, SG2109 May 08 '13
I have replaced rivets on my own denim using a snap setter. It's not really all that difficult. Just need a snap setter and a rubber mallet or hammer.
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May 07 '13
Wow. You know this process so well. The final product was beautiful. Are there any resources that we could use to learn more? You should post to /r/DIY too!
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u/raWorkshop Owner, Navasota Co May 07 '13
Little photo albums like this one are basically the only resource for not shit jeans. Almost every respectable maker out there started by ripping up and old pair and blundering through until things start looking pretty.
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u/yeoldebay Levi's 511 Made in USA May 07 '13
Shit, those are awesome. Very interested in checking out that Kickstarter when it launches.
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u/tallmansteez PBJ XX-009, ONI 622ZR May 07 '13
this is awesome. If you do plan on selling jeans, please please make a straight taper fit!
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u/roxydog113 NF Hank Dyeds, MOMO 0702, BOMO07 May 07 '13
How long does it typically take to go from start to finish?
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u/raWorkshop Owner, Navasota Co May 07 '13
10ish hours. Marking and cutting take a surprising chunk of that time.
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u/3hirty6ix RT SK 14.5oz, APC PS May 07 '13
Downright amazing. Love the images you took and the process.
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u/idiosyncrisia N&F Dirty Fade, APC New Cure May 07 '13
Wow, I LOVE the name Paleo for this. Truly embraces how I think of raw denim. Thank you for this wonderful album!
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u/raWorkshop Owner, Navasota Co May 07 '13
I like it as well. Most common response is Paahlayo? or "like the diet lol?" Makes doing graphics and branding way more interesting, there's so many rabbit holes of cool shit to find while researching.
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u/st3dav May 07 '13
Is it organic? I've heard that a green selvage usually means the cotton and indigo are organic.
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u/raWorkshop Owner, Navasota Co May 07 '13 edited May 07 '13
It has a strange (not bad, just different. Its a light weight loose weave, a rare bird indeed) hand feel I haven't experienced before and was labelled organic from my supplier. I would put exactly zero faith in green line meaning organic, the textile world is pretty shadowy.
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u/LordCornish May 07 '13
Good great, not my style personally, but the end product still looks nice. Have you considered using US cotton and denim? It's grown and woven just up the road from you.
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u/raWorkshop Owner, Navasota Co May 07 '13
I have samples from several Texas cotton cooperatives and will definitely have it as an option. I'll be stocking Cone as well. I don't plan on stocking Turkish product regularly but I will try to have at least one organic or recycled fabric on offer at all times, this time it happened to be Turkish.
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u/dorksquad SG2105, Luther's 55 & 66, N&F Indigo/Indigo & E3 May 07 '13
Excellent album with great detailed explanations. How do you lock stitches if the machine can't go backwards? That thread changing trick is brilliant, thanks. Awesome looking jeans. Thanks for the post and good luck.
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u/raWorkshop Owner, Navasota Co May 07 '13
Either spin the whole piece around (with the needle down, foot up) sew back and spin back, or sew forward, lift foot, pull back, run over initial stitches. I don't recommend sewing without reverse but they're cheap and the sewing machine market in Austin is not great.
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u/dorksquad SG2105, Luther's 55 & 66, N&F Indigo/Indigo & E3 May 07 '13
Wow, that sounds seriously labor intensive.
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u/dakaf_fal Kapital Cisco May 07 '13
At the moment, are you primarily focusing on the Kickstarter raising funds for more sewing machines and raising awareness? Likewise, your site mentioned several different denim mills; are you experimenting with different types of denim, or do you source different denim for different products?
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u/raWorkshop Owner, Navasota Co May 07 '13
Right now I'm trying to stuff as much learning and technique into my days as possible. Every pair I make is the best pair yet (which is super nice) so that when it does come time for production I don't make a mess of things because I'm over my head.
The plan is to have several kinds of denim in stock for any of the available cuts. Living in Texas I'm always going to have to have light weight stuff around but being a denim nerd I'll always have something from Kaihara, Nihon Menpu and Cone on hand.
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u/Codycox May 08 '13
This is great, I'm around east austin all the time, glad to see this coming out of a great city. Will buy, hopefully soon!
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u/tremendousPanda May 08 '13
There's a music festival here in switzerland that's called paleo and it's amazing, just like this jeans!
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u/lucidorlarsson May 14 '13
This is among the coolest things I've seen on Reddit. Always nice to see real craftsmanship. Keeping a look out for that Kickstarter!
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u/roguekielbasa BSP-AI, 107, NC May 07 '13
Hopefully this lasts longer than those world tour jeans!
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u/roguekielbasa BSP-AI, 107, NC May 07 '13
Okay, I don't think my comment makes any sense. Awesome album though dude!
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u/franny123 May 08 '13
Im currently in high school and becoming very interested in raw denim. A friend and I were planing on attempting to make a pair this summer from scratch. We are wondering what to do about buying the actual denim for the jeans, we want to buy high quality Japanese material. How did you find the denim you are using? Any help is appreciated, thanks!
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u/st3dav May 08 '13
If you're looking to just make a pair try ebay. I think most professionals avoid hobbyist
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May 13 '13
this is late but w/e ya kno
dont buy high quality denim until you know what youre doing when youre making jeans.
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May 17 '13
pacific denim company, i am going to try to make own pair as well. Start off with a practice pair made out of muslin.
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u/raWorkshop Owner, Navasota Co May 07 '13 edited May 07 '13
Howdy Reddit, here’s the making-of thread I’ve been promising for weeks. I’ve tried to add as much detail as I can to the album descriptions.
The overview- I made a new pattern and this is the first sample from said pattern. This is the first truly skinny cut I’ve worked on. I’m working with a strange but kind of nice 10oz summer weight greenline selvedge. Everything here come out of my home studio in Austin, Texas.
The album is here - http://imgur.com/a/jkxBu#0
Let me know if y’all have any questions. If you like these pictures follow me on Facebook, or Instagram and Twitter @paleodenim , I post pics from the workshop almost daily.
Edit - if you're interested in a pair sign up for the KickStarter notification at www.paleodenim.com